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lampoulos

2210 Throttle Cable Mounting. I goofed...

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lampoulos
Good thing I can laugh at myself. When I bought this tractor the throttle cable wasn't routed correctly. So I went out and bought a new one thinking it'd be a no brainer to install. Why wouldn't I think it should be routed through that hole thingy at the top of the cylinder head? I routed my new throttle cable the wrong way, didn't I? Do you have any idea how hard it was to get it installed....wrong? Obviously it wasn't working properly so I did some reasearch in the club. I'm going to have to remove that broken bolt on the top of the intake aren't I?


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Kent
See the diagram on the left. That shows the two nuts on the cable housing that he's talking about -- not the ones pointed out on the governor adjustment, but the ones on the cable that is run like yours is: [img]http://www.simpletractors.com/images/300401/fig_5.jpg[/img] You might come up with something else like small clamps that keeps that cable housing from sliding up and down. You have to hold the housing stationary, while the cable inside moves in and out...

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Ronald Hribar
I routed mine the same way as you. And it did not work. I twisted bottom hole 90 degrees and attached my clamp there. I also did not like the bracket on top of intake. Thought it was a homemade bracket.

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lampoulos
Mine was never hooked up so I had nothing to compare to. Though, in my research of some old forums I found this picture: It started me thinking so I went back and looked at some of my parts and found the 90 degree bracket and, of course, the broken bolt in the top of the intake. All of that tells me that it was set up that way from the factory. If I run the cable as I did in my original picture it interfears with the travel of the adjustment rod. Looking at Kents pictures I wonder if that bracket was a design by b&s that Simplicity didn't change. Maybe it was meant for a statinary adaptation like the pictures Kent posted.


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rokon2813
Here is your picture I think. I've seen tractors done both ways, as well as bolting the bracket and clamp to the to hole where your cable is run when the bolt breaks off in the intake. If you have the cable clamp and bracket, that might be the easiest fix. Or, if you want it original, and can't drill and tap the intake, a used intake could be had pretty cheap too. For testing purposes, I would zip tie it in place like said above, and pull the top of the cable back so it does not interfere with the adjuster rod, and zip tie that to something too. You just need to hold the cable sheath stationary so the inner cable will move freely.


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BLT
quote:
Originally posted by rokon2813
Here is your picture I think. I've seen tractors done both ways, as well as bolting the bracket and clamp to the to hole where your cable is run when the bolt breaks off in the intake. If you have the cable clamp and bracket, that might be the easiest fix. You just need to hold the cable sheath stationary so the inner cable will move freely.
156425 clip and 1656453 bracket. Those are the numbers but don't know if they are still available.

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briggsetc
A couple of years ago I researched those cable retaining nuts, it seemed like a simple thing,not. They are still available from Briggs 63426 > 691027 at 5.35 a pop so that shows you how cheap I am. I never did find a common hardware nut or machine screw size that would work. The "threads" are right around 18 TPI and the cable measures .190",around 3/16". I hoard all I find on old cables.

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lampoulos
Thanks for the help guys, and Rokon with the help with the pic. I took a good look at what options I had and decided on putting the cable clamp behind the head of the bolt on the left side of the intake manifold. All I had to do was open up the holes of the clamp to accomodate the larger bolt. Works like a charm too. If fact I had it running for the first time last night.


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perry
quote:
Originally posted by lampoulos
Works like a charm too. If fact I had it running for the first time last night.
and how did the old bugger run for ya ?. the cable routing looks good to me.

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lampoulos
IT DIDN'T EVEN MAKE A COMPLETE REVOLUTION BEFORE IT FIRED AND RAN!!!I have to still make some adjustments, but it fired right away and ran like a top. These old 10hp B&S engines sure do sound cool, though I think it needs a new muffler. This one sounded like it was burning inside. Could just be from sitting. It'll get good and hot while I'm getting it going tomorrow.

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perry
i never cared for those cheap coffee can style mufflers. get it the heck off there :D. a AC-1 stack sounds real good on them. can be loud thou. I like the original simplicity muffler too or to make it quite a round nelson generator style muffler .

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