Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

Sign in to follow this  
locknut

Another FDT Diesel Swap

Recommended Posts

locknut
Never done an engine swap before but now I'm knee deep into it.Inspired by D-10 Allis and some others on here,I figured I'd give it a whirl.It's been a lot of work,cutting,grinding and fitting up but I'm getting there.Got the flywheel adapter back from the machine shop today so I'm ready to bolt the engine down.Was hard to eyeball the alignment on the driveshaft by just looking at the disc,so I came up with the idea of replacing one bolt with a straight long threaded rod.Here's some pics.I think this is the best I can do. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/001-5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/002-5.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/003.jpg[/IMG] I took some notes before disassembling the old motor and the driveshaft is within 1/16" or less both vertically and horizontally,measured from the front lift shaft as a reference point.Had to grind as much as possible off the left side block platform. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/004-2.jpg[/IMG] I'll add more pics and such in the next few days.Oh,the engine is a chinese clone of the 10hp Yanmar.Launtop brand from Chuck Elmore down in Ga.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
quote:
Originally posted by Talntedmrgreen
Very cool Greg! This will be fun to watch come together ^
Yes,I'm anxious to see how much better it works with the 48" deck.The old Briggs 10hp seemed way underpowered cutting thick bluegrass this spring.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
D10-Allis
Looking great Greg, The Engine spacer looks identical to mine, I used Aluminum and has a clearance hole for the flywheel nut. Keep the pictures coming! :p Your gonna Love it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
Thanks.I've got more pics.This one is the frame pan.Cut the back half moon back 1/4",then removed the bolts in back and replaced with tapered head bolts flush with the bottom to get the block as low as possible. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/001-10.jpg[/IMG] This pic shows the adapter w/recess for the driveshaft hub. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/002-7.jpg[/IMG] Couldn't find any M6std 45mm long cap screws so had to get 25 from Mcmaster Carr.The shop made a goof on the first hub and drilled one of the holes in the wrong spot.It'll still work ok if someone on here wants it. Also discovered the driveshaft ends were bent a little so the older guy that owns the shop said yea,I got an old lathe in the back of the shop that's not been used for 20 yrs but it's made to handle something like this.30 min later it was perfect and he didn't charge me anything.They also saved the CAD drawings for the adapter.I believe all these clone engines have the same oddball four bolt pattern. More later.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
Got a little more done.Here's a pic of the dash.Had to move the throttle cable to the lower choke hole so it would reach the control on the engine.Just got this new cable and it was expensive so I made it work.Covered the top hole with a 9/16 white button.Got 99 extra ones if somebody needs one :) [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/002-8.jpg[/IMG] Next pic is left side.Couldn't stand that red paint on the shroud so it's orange now.Also installed a quick oil drain w/extension from oildrain.net.Also in the upper right in this pic you can see the back side of the new ignition switch.Had to enlarge the hole IIRC to 1". [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/001-11.jpg[/IMG] Drilled a 9/32 hole in the tank and screwed in a 1/8 nylon fitting(1/16 NPT) for the return line.Added a little shoe-goop glue at the top of the threads.This stuff is my prefered glue for almost everything. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/003-2.jpg[/IMG]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
Yea,that's it.It sticks good to painted steel surfaces,too.I used a glob of it to hold two wires down on the frame pan that kept flipping up towards the driveshaft and with this engine change I needed to remove the wires.Pulled the wires with all my might and the glue would not budge.Ended up using a sharp chisel and hammer to remove the stuff. Off tomorrow,so I hope to get a lot more done with some more pics.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
Been at it all day and did get some more done.Lot of cussing and skinned knuckles but I'm getting there [:) A shot of the fuel filter and bracketry.Put an inline shutoff on it behind the side panel.I got the filter off ebay.Mil-spec with a fine metal mesh screen and top bleeder screw.Had an awful time finding fittings for it.Ad stated 3/8 npt but those were way too big.Tried 1/4 npt and would only go a full turn and get really tight.Then tried 5/16 inverted flair and they screwed in nice but a little loose,so 5 wraps of teflon and they don't leak,so far. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/003-4.jpg[/IMG] Wiring is pretty simple as it comes with a plug-in harness just the right length.Got 24" battery cables from TSC.Length was just right. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/002-9.jpg[/IMG] Decided to use the factory muffler and air cleaner.The fab shop lengthened the muffler neck 4" and I made a 4" lower support bracket for it.Made up flanges for the intake and used a 1" elbow,reemed the threads out and welded 1-1/4" black pipe to the left side for mounting the air cleaner. [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/001-12.jpg[/IMG] Yep,it's a diesel; [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/005-1.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/004-3.jpg[/IMG]

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
I'm pumped.Put oil in it,fueled it up and bled the air off on top of the filter,hit the key and fired right up.Break-in period according to the manual is 20 hrs before putting a full load on it.Guess I could drive it around the neighborhood 8D Here's a video; http://s498.photobucket.com/albums/rr342/locknut-1/Simplicity%203210V/?action=view¤t=001-13.mp4

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
quote:
Originally posted by PGL
Looks good. What are the specs for that engine?
Here's a link to the ebay listing.I think the torque rating is around 18 ft lbs. http://www.ebay.com/itm/10-HP-Air-Cooled-Launtop-Diesel-Engine-/221027193743?_trksid=p4340.m185&_trkparms=algo%3DSIC.NPJS%26its%3DI%252BC%26itu%3DUA%26otn%3D5%26pmod%3D220992846058%26ps%3D63%26clkid%3D8630874253431854620

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Talntedmrgreen
Amazing work! Very very cool. I can help you out with ALL of those 20 hours if you can hold off till I get down there....it'll be about 3 hours. ;)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
quote:
Originally posted by Talntedmrgreen
Amazing work! Very very cool. I can help you out with ALL of those 20 hours if you can hold off till I get down there....it'll be about 3 hours. ;)
LOL,no problem,ice cold beer in the fridge,too :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
If anyone here wants to go this route,I'll sell a starter kit.The extra adapter w/ M6 cap screws,a couple tank return line fittings,and a white button for the dash if using the lower choke hole.This adapter will work with the front edge of the block casting exactly 2-5/8" back from the front of the frame pan edge on both sides.PM me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
All is not well today.Some sort of misalignment issue.As I was putting the right side panel back on with the engine running I noticed the driveshaft wasn't turning a smooth rotation,so I revved the throttle up and it looked like it was made out of rubber.Osccillating vertically probably 1/4" in the center.So,I tore it down tonite and found the Adapter hub is loose.Don't know if it loosened on its own,or the shaft made it loosen from alignment issues. I made some steel washers on my bench grinder lathe that fit down in the slots for the M6 cap screws and bought a socket type allen wrench and tightened the crap out of them.I'll get it back together tomorrow evening and see what happens.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
locknut
Ok,if there's still a wobble problem after re- tightening the hub,would a lovejoy coupling at the front help? Or,I guess I could build a new shaft with u-joints front and back,but would be somewhat expensive.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
Sign in to follow this  

  • Who's Online (See full list)

    • AC716
  • Today's Birthdays

    1. acey
      acey
      (68 years old)
    2. Gary
      Gary
      (68 years old)
  • Recent Status Updates

    • SonOfCreepfeed

      SonOfCreepfeed

      Thinkin' about this old girl.

      · 1 reply
    • Dean McFadden

      Dean McFadden

      Good morning peeps! I’m always searching for helpful information with my AC collection. Hope to find out new information and pass on my own experience in restoration. Here are some pics of my babies. I’m still looking for front rims for the 410 so yesterday I put the 310 wheels on took it for a drive. Working pretty good but still needs some carb work. Gotta get the 310 running next. Have a great day!😁
       

      · 1 reply
  • Adverts

×