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jsarro

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jsarro
I am a new Simplicity owner of a 1969 3112V. How do I track down odd parts like hood wing nuts or skids for a snow blower? I have checked a few of the site sponsors, but the parts come up as unavailable. Thank you for pointing me to the right resources.

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jsarro
Great thanks, I really wanted those wing bolts. I also need one nut receptor for one of the wing bolts to the hood. I am looking at some after market skids that are sold based on slot distance. The link below is to some heavy duty jobs 12" in length. I have also seen some less expensive standard skids on ebay that would work. www.snowblowerskids.com

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GrincheyOne
Jack, What you refer to as "receptor nuts", are commonly called "cage nuts". These are available in the loose hardware aisles of your local National Hardware store EG. ACE, or True Value. Be prepared to pay a couple $ each. These are sold not only by the thread dimension (such as (1/4-20) but also based on the gauge (thickness of the metal to be used in. BTW - welcome to the Club :). Cheers, Wayne

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jsarro
Thanks for the further info and welcome Wayne and Kenny. I will track down those wing bolts and cage nuts. Are there any particular skids members have used that they have been happy with, or are they all about the same?

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jsarro
I am going to install a gas line shut off valve to deal with a small drip of gas from the carb when the tractor is sitting. I have a plastic Briggs one in hand, but was wondering if there are any better options? I would have ideally like to put one directly at the output of the gas tank. I'm not sure if that would be easily accessible for daily use, and or of the output is threaded, or will only accept a 1/4" hose? I am going to replace the gas cap as well to deal with a leak, and I have ID'd it on Jacks Small engine.

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steve-wis
Hi Jack, and welcome to the club! I use the plastic ones on all my tractors, they work well. I put them in the line where they are easiest to access. Also put a filter in the line if there isn't one already. The small round ones work well and are fairly cheap. As far as the blower skids, I would think 12 inches long would be easily hooked on something and bent, but that is just my opinion. The ones I have that I like the best are on an old simplicity walk behind, they are about three inch dia. steel wheels. They work really well on concrete or black top, not sure about soft ground or gravel. Steve

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jsarro
Steve thanks for the tips and welcome. I agree on the 12" skids, I was also thinking being so long they may offer too much resistance with the ground. The skids you mention, are they available new? If so could you link to them? Thanks Jack

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Blazerjeepman3
Place the cutoff close to the carb as possible,not the fuel tank, other wise remaining fuel in line will go thru the carb untill line is empty of fuel. When I had leaking carbs proper rebuild of carb will eliminate the leaks.

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jsarro
Great thanks for the tip. I will do that, and then shut the valve off and run the tractor out of gas so It will not leak while resting. When I rebuild the carb are there seals or gaskets that may be the culprit of the leak? What should I look for to be the problem? Thanks:)

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HubbardRA
I took the very worn skids on a couple of the snowblowers and made a new bottom section that contacted the ground. I just took a piece of flatbar that was wider than the original, and I made it significantly longer. Then I just welded it to the bottom of the skids. They work great and with the larger ground contact area, they slide easier on the slick ground or pavement.

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JohnMBerst
I agree with Rod, as have "repaired / renewed" a set of skids with flat stock bent to match the original curve, welded and a coat of paint. Since the original are able to be used top and bottom, should last a long time. Doing this also added a bit of length, to aid the weight distribution a bit over the grass areas I blow. Great job to finish on the off season.

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jsarro
Ok I ordered the hood wing bolts from Wells Implement today. They were very helpful in the parts department. They seem like a first class company. The part # is 2026299 they are $2.00 each. I tracked down some simplicity replacement skids part # 1727854BM I do not have them in hand yet but they should be the right ones. I found from a parts rep that if you take the 2 off of the begining of the current Simplicity parts # it converts the new Briggs # back into the old Simplicity # which allows further tracking of a potential replacement part.

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andy330
I can never read a response from anyone ? Get E-mail notifications but just brings me back to this sight with nothing there but old stuff. Can anyone post and tell me what i am doing wrong? Thanks.

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MysTiK
Andy330 - go to the list of forums - click on Talking Tractors - dead center at the top is NEW TOPIC button. Start your very own new topic - ask your questions, etc. there. Basically you are probably being ignored because you are hijacking THIS TOPIC. try that - your own topic - and welcome - that will work much better. out. (do not reply here).

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jsarro
I know there are site sponsors here and I'm sure we all appreciate them supporting the club. If any members have had good luck with certain suppliers or venues for tracking down specific types of parts, it might be helpful to newbies to hear some of the best places to look in the future for parts? So where do you guys like to buy your parts and supplies? The help you guys have given me already has been great. Thanks:)

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HubbardRA
You also asked about riveting sections to a sicklebar and got no reply. I riveted all of the cutter teeth on mine, because I had to replace a broken sliding bar. I did it the old fashioned way. A large piece of metal to set the head of the rivet against (used a vice) and a ball peen hammer. Just sit there and pound on the end of the rivet with a medium force till you have formed a head on it. When that one is good enough to hold the section, then move on to the next one. 46 rivets later, I had my sliding bar ready to re-install into the unit. There is a tool that will supposedly clinch the end of a rivet to make a head in one motion. I did not have one. That is why I did it the way the old-time blacksmith. A question was also asked about using bolts to hold the cutter teeth on. The answer is "no" First of all the weight of the bolts compared to the rivets puts a much higher load on the sliding bar because of the sudden starts and stops at each end of the swingand could cause premature failure. Secondly the heads of the bolts and the locking nuts that would be needed are too large to fit the grooves and clearances on the unit. Thirdly, bolts would work themselves loose, while a rivet after being cold worked into the holes has a perfect fit with no clearance for the parts to move and work themselves loose.

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