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PatterBrian

CCKB choke cable sticks

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PatterBrian
What is the correct way to lube a choke cable. I don't see a way to pull it from its coiled cover. While removing the fuel pump on my Powermax, I removed the intake and exhaust manifolds for better access. I moved the intake manifold aside a bit too far, and introduced a little bend into the choke cable. Now, I can apply the choke via the cable, but not release it. I've tried straightening the cable, too no avail, and oiling it. If I need to replace it, are there generic replacement available?

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MysTiK
If you can get at one end of the cable, and raise it higher or near vertical, you can trickle wd40, or penetrating oil, etc. in one end and out the other, (if it will get there), between the sliding cable and the sheath. Try to straighten it. Other tricks involve removing the outer layer slightly in bent area at one end. The wrapped cable must be anchored somewhere for any of this to work. My own choke is stiff but works; it's getting stiffer, kinda slams on, slams off, all or nothing; but I only use to start. (this was relatively easy on my old tenspeed, made a big difference - but that was easy access).

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Brettw
I would not use WD40 as it is a very light oil and will evaporate. Liquid graphite would be a good way to go. There used to be an attachment that you could clamp on to the end of a cable and it would accept the plastic straw from a spray can of pressurized lube. Haven't seen one in years, used it on mt mid 70's Yamaha dirt bike brake and clutch cables.

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MysTiK
quote:
Originally posted by Brettw
I would not use WD40 as it is a very light oil and will evaporate. Liquid graphite would be a good way to go. There used to be an attachment that you could clamp on to the end of a cable and it would accept the plastic straw from a spray can of pressurized lube. Haven't seen one in years, used it on mt mid 70's Yamaha dirt bike brake and clutch cables.
There could very well be something better, such as graphite, which I have never used. Water Displacement formula #40, displaces water, after the solvent evaporates. When I first got my 716, I discovered it removed what I thought were scratches. I cleaned the whole tractor w it. Now, when I wash trax w pressure wash, or in rain, etc., it beads water just like a wax job. Mechanic that taught me what WD stands for used to spray old ignition wires, etc. with it, to avoid problems in wet weather. After the solvent evaps, it still displaces water. Perhaps if rust is the issue with old cables, it would help. But yeh, I hear of other products; but no experience with them, and no info I can offer. Gear oil would resist water also; and there might not be much dirt inside an enclosed cable. I remember flushing my cables; what came out was dirty brown. Never had to do it again.

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rokon2813
quote:
Originally posted by Brettw
I would not use WD40 as it is a very light oil and will evaporate. Liquid graphite would be a good way to go. There used to be an attachment that you could clamp on to the end of a cable and it would accept the plastic straw from a spray can of pressurized lube. Haven't seen one in years, used it on mt mid 70's Yamaha dirt bike brake and clutch cables.
As of about 3 years ago you could still buy a cable luber. My brother works on motorcycles and he bought one. Not sure if it came from Snap-on, Mac or elsewhere. Also, if your cable is older and only sheathed with steel, no plastic, you can soak the entire cable with a penetrant and it will go through the sheath. I use PB blaster

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