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2210-No Spark


lampoulos

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I haven't had my 2210 for very long, but I have had it running...and running very well, though it needed a carb adjustment. So today I made the proper initial adjustments on the carb as per the B&S manual for this engine. Then I took the cover for the points off to check condition and they looked new. Was very careful not to pinch the wire coming out of the cover when I reainstalled. Now it won't start. I've grounded the plug on a head bolt and found that I have no spark. What should I be looking for here? The harness does need to be gone through and replaced, but I'm not convinced that's the problem. Any suggestions would be appreciated. A schematic would also be appreciated as I'm not sure what's supposed to be on this machine and what isn't.
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You should have a ground wire from the switch to a small insulator attached to the top points box screw. Unhook it and see if you have spark. It may be grounded somewhere, or your swith may be bad. Moving the wires to check the points may have caused a ground.
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check and recheck then gap them points. i had to clean them 3 times to get it to run long enough for a test drive. I also disconnect the ground wire the first thing to rule that out. then go from there. possible the coil could be going or dirty / bad connection. dont remeber if there was a mouse nest in that one.
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i just had the same problem. mine ran when it wanted too. ended up being a wire off the points that the plastic wore off.
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Sounds like I should go through the wire harness after-all. I went back out to see if I could get it going and noticed that there was a mouse nest behind the cylinder head. I know it was a mouse nest because there was a petrified mouse carcas tucked up in there. I'm going to try the ground wire first, but I'm sure the engine is going to come out soon so I can give it all a thorough cleaning. With all the wire pulling that I've been doing I'm sure something ended up grounded out somewhere. Will be working on it tomorrow night and will post an update.
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Last touched first check is the rule of things that don't work so take the cover back off of the points and do the checks. 1. test light from ground to points while cranking check for a flashing test light. A.If no light your grounded already,check and clean points ,gap, or grounded wire connection. B.If light but not flashing points are not set or closing. C.If light flashes then go to step 2 2.check wire connected to point set make sure it is connected. if OK go to step 3. if not repair open circuit. 3.check wire from points to coil for breaks and or ground out in most cases steps 1 and 2 have already fixed your issue don't forget to use a good sealant around the points cover moister will collect in humid damp or snowing environments.
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you can get the nest out without pulling the engine. flip the S&G bracket out of the way, pull the head sheet metal, reinstall head bolts. use long needle nose pliers, a vacuum and blow gun to get the nest out. start the engine and let the rest blow out. then reinstall the sheet metal.
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So I'm guessing pulling the head bolts are no big deal? In my line of work you don't do that just to pull sheet metal, but I'm not used to small engine repair work. That's the only reason I hadn't done it yet. I'm guessing I pull just enough to get the sheetmetal off. Is there a certain order that they need to be torqued down, and to what torque? Knowing that would make me more comfortable doing that. See, I'm learning already!
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I am sure there is a proper way and torque. the briggs engine manual or check online for chart. I have done many, many, many of them nest clean-outs. i use my 3/8 air impact gun and over the years i just know the feel of it. dont over think it, just dive in and get that nest out of there. 20min job. then check the terminal ends on the wires going to the points. i have had a few of them with bad connections. fought my big ten for half aday with eractic spark problems. came down to being the wire from coil had a bad connection going into the terminal at the points. just disconnect the on/off switch ground wire at points to eliminate that then check for spark. if still no spark and points are GAP & CLEAN then clean the points agian and check the coil wire/connections. cant stress enough to clean and reclean the points. like i said. i had that tractor fire up then lost spark on me. cleaned the points untill the sand paper was showing no more black residue and tractor ran good.
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For those who do not posess an educated 3/8's impact wrench, the torque for cast irons is a nomonal 16 ft lbs torque or 190 inch lbs. and here is the seaquence. http://recoveryvehicles.tpub.com/TM-5-4240-501-14P/css/TM-5-4240-501-14P_150.htm
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quote:
Originally posted by BLT
For those who do not posess an educated 3/8's impact wrench
I like that Bob :D, yes it really should be done the proper way.
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