Jump to content

Unofficial Home of Old Simplicity & Allis-Chalmers Garden Tractors

CDwallace

7112 purchase

Recommended Posts

CDwallace
Hi there. New to the forum. Just picked up a simplicity 7112 hydrostatic from CL for $80. It runs, but needs some help. Anyone have any suggestions for a new muffler set up? The original was rotted through and cannot be salvaged. It has the kohler 12 horse K301 in it. Also, when I got it running, it started spitting gas out of the air cleaner and flooded out. Probably just neeeds carb cleaned? It was leaking gas from the bottom of the tank as well, so I ordered the replacement bushing. Other than that, it needed a steering wheel. It only came with a mower deck though. I will try and post some pics soon. Any advice would be appreciated. I figured for $80, I did all right. Proabably worth that in scrap, the thing weighs a ton! Thanks Craig

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
powerking_one
Craig; Pull the carb apart and check the float for leaks; I had a Carter carb on a K-91 that started doing this and there was a micro crack in the brass float. My 2 cents worth and totally free (LOL). Tom (PK)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MysTiK
wow I don't care what's wrong with it, you stole it. sm01 You can't buy a "parts tractor" for that. I would elbow grease the rusteez and put it to work - good luck keeping that lil girl off it. It's HERS. :D also I tawt I taw a 'dirt critter' w front diskee brake 8D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CDwallace
Funny thing is, her two older brothers thought it was ugly and wanted nothing to do with it. I guess it will be hers...... Talking about the DR 650? Thats my gas saving device, at least that is how I sold it to the wife.... : )

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MysTiK
quote:
Originally posted by CDwallace
Funny thing is, her two older brothers thought it was ugly and wanted nothing to do with it. I guess it will be hers...... Talking about the DR 650? Thats my gas saving device, at least that is how I sold it to the wife.... : )
I used to have an XL 500. Used to get some crazy 75 mpg highway. It was street legal; but that didn't stop me from crashing in the dirt, or bailing off on insane hills. It was always fix it during the week and trash it on weekends. :D Bikes are pretty valuable as gas savers. HER tractor. Interesting. When you clean it up, there could be more competition. Machines have no brain unfortunately - bikes or tractors. I would worry about kids, just want to play - hide the keys. and keep the rubber side down, eh. 8D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CDwallace
Anyone have any ideas for replacement exhaust, including muffler? I have an idea for a stack from TSC, but would rather stick with something more close to stock if possible. canister is 10" long by 5" around and it has a 1.25 in inlet. Any leads would be appreciated. thanks Craig

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MysTiK
Well, stacks are kinda fun; but you can get into retuning things due to changes in backpressure, etc.; and also they have to be supported to support the weight. It's been done; it's just a little more than slapping on a muffler. It's also been tempting for me cos it would take the heat out from under the hood; but thats not really the issue that I once thought it was. The exhaust is at the far end of the blower airstream thru the "tins" and over the "fins". btw keep those clean, and meeeses like to build mouse condos in the lower rear flywheel/blower area - keep the screen clear, check once in a while. You can feel the air flow at idle - it's quite a breeze. Re muffler - you could check the Simp dealers; that's probably expensive. Try classifieds here, or local craigslist. Also try to find a local tractor salvage yard. There's some huge salvage yards in some places, more prevalent in the States. In Ontario, Canada, they seem pretty few and far between. There have been some recent threads on mufflers - try using the search on the menu bar, top of the page - keywords like muffler, 7112. I am not sure if other h.p. size engines would use same muffler or different. Manufacturers - I know Nelson is one; but I am no expert on any of this really. The original stock is an exact shape and size and a perfect fit. This is good; but it makes substitution a little tricky. People sometimes "part out" these tractors. Classifieds here or craigs. Another idea is to buy a parts tractor for kinda the price you paid for this one, often a little more actually. A wreck can often have just the parts you need. Mine has helped me with some small stuff; it's really a whole tractor w no motor. I'm always watching for a deal on a motor. It's a 716 6speeder, so no good for hydro; but a lot of the drivetrain, bgb, etc. is same game. General info, yes; but maybe get you started. There were thousands of these tractors sold; the parts are out there. You will find them. It's just a time factor. Keeping contacts is a good idea too. Also, an Allis Chalmers 912 is EXACTLY the same tractor as yours with a Kohler engine. And also others are SIMILAR = Simp 7000-series and Allis 700-series, like mine. It's also possible you might find some parts in a Simp 3400 series (circa 1974). 1975 started the 700, 7000. 1980 started the 900, 7100 series. (allis are Kohlers/simp are Briggs) (usually) hope that helps I didn't see mention of manuals, etc. Those are free downloads, if you need, just ask. Have a tour of www.simpletractors.com. tons of info there on all kinds of stuff, also Xreference, repairs, etc. etc. etc. Long post - I write novels sometimes. :D

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CDwallace
I did the muffler search on this web site, and came up with some ideas and leads. The local simplicity dealer laughed and shook his head. Good info with the Allis 912, I knew there was an Allis twin to mine, but I could not locate the allis model number. That will broaden the search considerably. I would think a used muffler/exhaust would probably be in the same shape as mine, given the age. Thanks for the info! Craig

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MysTiK
Most I have seen are ok. Mine has a tiny hole in it; but it's not from rust; it was hit with something long long ago. I think about covering the hole with something.??? it's not much of a problem. maybe a muffler bandage, I don't know. I have never removed one. 8) but there are a couple of possibilities, depends where you remove. Someone might know if other horsepower engines are the same part or slightly different. Some other models might exit at a different point in the frame. My 716H exits lower left hole in the left hood post. Not sure of yours, it might be lower right? (guessing). A good used one would be pretty cheap, if it's still good. Some tractors are well looked after, some are left outside. And sometimes it doesn't much matter for the part you need. My parts tractor sat outside for 2 years. It's in pretty good condition surprisingly. I got a bunch of attachments with it - that's why I bought it. cheap. and a complete pile of parts. 8D Some of the ugliest tractors just need a bath. It can be surprising. That's the optimistic view. Sometimes you have to ignore the "rusty olde junk" appearance. I thought my tractor was all hakked up; until I accidentally wiped up some wd40, and the paint started to shine. I do need to paint my deck tho. I have a few maintenance items on my agenda.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CDwallace
So I got her running like a top, cleaned the carb and fabricated a muffler, now the transmission does not want to engage. The free wheel latch is pulled up. What do I check next guys? Thanks Craig

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
BLT
quote:
Originally posted by CDwallace
So I got her running like a top, cleaned the carb and fabricated a muffler, now the transmission does not want to engage. The free wheel latch is pulled up. What do I check next guys? Thanks Craig
For starts, make sure buttons come up when latch is pulled up.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad
I'd say about 1/8". Spray them with WD40 and try to work them up and down. If the tractor's running, then while working them, the hydraulic pressure will help them come up. The issue is if you're not sure the hydro is in neutral, it'll move on you. That's not a good thing with the seat pan up and you standing next to the tractor. So I'd put the rear end up on jack stands to prevent that problem. If that doesn't work, folks have taken them out and pushed them up from the inside. There are some posts on the site about how to do that.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
JimDk
Craig, Have you checked the fluid level? It should be well up in the fill pipe. If you do need to add fluid, there is a vent on the left side to let air out. I have slowly added ATF and the air does work itself out without using the vent. I use Type F ATF or Dexron or whatever ATF that I have handy. The old Sundstrands don't seem to be too particuar. Good luck, Jim

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
CDwallace
Ok, buttons appear to be up all the way on the free wheel latch. Tranny fluid is up in the fill tube when the vent is opened. Silly question, but does the tractor need to run for the hydro pressure to build back up for the transmission to re-engage? It currently has a dead battery, so I have not started it since the free wheel latch was released..... Thanks for the help guys! Craig

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
PhanDad
Yes, once the tractor free wheel latch is depressed, the tractor must be run to have the tranny system "lock". You can push the tractor around regardless of the freewheel latch position. And, on all my Sundstrands, after a while the hydraulic "lock" is lost when the engine isn't running (without depressing freewheel latch). So IMO, never park a Sundstrand tractor on a slope and rely on the tractor not roll away. Don't ask how I know. Never had this problem with my Homelite with Vickers hydro, but I don't park it on a slope anymore either.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
MysTiK
Bunch of Stuff - about Sundstrand hydro. Depress clutch(brake) when starting, to disengage the "tranny load" when starting - easier on starter/battery, etc. while cranking. When started, release clutch slowly at idle - you can then "hear the trans" start to spin. Pressure will build quickly, almost immediate, but give it a minute to circulate/warm up. Sometimes, brake/clutch might perhaps not fully engage, or release, when you release the pedal. I pull up on mine to make sure, but never really had that problem anyway. Also I think there's a grease zerk on the clutch/brake, also it's adjustable. When running - NEVER use the clutch/brake - the hydro stick becomes the real brake. Using the clutch/brake effectively disengages tranny, (just like when starting engine) then it gets slammed/engaged when pedal is released at high engine speed.!! Don't use the brake - the hydro stick controls all movement, stop, forward, reverse. Hydro should roughly hold speed on all terrain, depending on traction, including downhill - tractor is always controlled by hydro. Note that in a panic stop, the hydro "brake" will offer lots more stopping power, plus holding power, plus reverse power - the tiny brake band is really only good as a parking brake - there is no hydro control when that brake band is engaged.!! If you have a "no go" or "no movement", check belt/idlers from BGB right side to rear trans pulley/fan, etc. (rarely fails). Also, idle speed of engine seems important - usually engine idle is 1200; but Allis Chalmers 700-series Manual (AC MFR 1690211, etc) specs 1800 rpm engine idle speed - this is specific to the use of the Sundstrand hydro - apparently low low low engine speeds can kill hydros, due to (terminology???) inadequate pressure, cavitation, basically asking the trans to push when it just can't. Idling like a Harley twin (ka-chung, ka-chung) low idle is really bad. Keep the revs up during use. When I got mine it was idling way too low - maybe 800 - sounded great tho. sm01 but I pushed it up to at least 1200, guess, no tach. Keep the hydro pump spinning!! (sorry, trans vocabulary is challenged - the word 'pressure' is often used inappropriately - it's more about fluid flow, or lack of, pressure is often just dumped/bypassed if no need for it, etc etc etc. Just maintain enough rpm for the hydro to control itself, cos it will, using internal bypasses and checkvalves, etc. You can research words like "swash plate" etc. which controls the forward, neutral, reverse fluid flows/pressures, etc. I think the hydro stick controls the swash plate more or less directly - fascinating high tek stuff. OO end of sermon.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


×