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Like I need something else to do........


D-17_Dave

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My next project is an early model D-15 Industrial Diesel w/ loader. I've been collecting parts for this project for some time. 4 parts engines, 2 parts tractors and a couple of serious road trips and several $$ and I'm finally getting it in the shop.




This was a loader/backhoe tractor at one time. I have the heavy loader for it but no backhoe. A backhoe like this is normally a bare back tractor so I decided I'd install a rear lift and 3-point on this one for now so I could have a more usefull tractor for most utility work. I used a parted out I-600 tractor to rob the rear pump and hydraulics off of for the rear lift. The I-600 is the later model of this tractor with lots of updates so the mods were mostly a bolt on upgrade. This tractor has the shuttle reverser on it rather than the standard Hi-Low like most AC tractors of the day. More progress to come shortly as I hope to have it running today.
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That looks like a very cool project Dave! I have a 1957 D-14 which was the first year for the D series. Mine is in about the same condition appearance wise so I'm looking forward to seeing your progress so keep us updated on your progress. Dan
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  • 3 weeks later...
I little update on my project. It's taken me awhile to get it to this point. The head gasket was installed wrong and blew out as soon as I got it to fire. Injector pump was timed wrong so I had to pull the timing cover off and correct the timing. When I got it running it wouldn't advance far enough to get to that needed sweet spot to run right so I had to pull the timing cover a second time and advance the gear a extra tooth. Got the flat front tire to hold air and the power steering fixed without much issue. I used the rear hydraulic manifold off an I-600 tractor which is the later version of this tractor. The fender on the 600 was folded over the frame and lever's/linkage so I have around 8 hrs just in straightening the frame and linkage plus removing the rust from the hydraulic manifold to restore it to working condition. I still have to make a couple of metal lines to plumb it all in but I can crank and drive the tractor now. Too bad my radiator is done for. That'll be a later fix as I'll need to recore it and boil out and coat the fuel tank at the same time. It runs and cranks good and has good throttle responce and power. The kit I put in the water pump was bad so I still have to fix and replace the pump, I'm using an extra for now till I get the parts in. It seems like every time I get one thing done I find two more things and they always seem to be something that someone else has already supposed to have fixed. I'd say that people should have to pass a test to own a wrench. Anyway, here are a few pics to wet your whistle.






Anyway, another road trip tom so shop time will have to wait. This ain't no 5 day restoration project here. I think I'd have been better off to just buy a late model tractor.......
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quote:
I think I'd have been better off to just buy a late model tractor.......
perhaps better off financially and time-wise, but where's the fun in just buying something new?
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Sure looks lot better than those rusty hunks of metal that we brought back from the trip. When I saw what you were buying, it had me wondering. It seems as though you can do wonders with these old machines.
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I like your idea of passing a test to own a wrench! On the other hand, if it had been fixed right and running, you probably wouldn't have the tractor now.
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It will all be worth it in the end. You are going to have a very cool & hard working tractor. And the shuttle is a BIG plus on a loader machine... Good luck sm01
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quote:
Originally posted by HubbardRA
Sure looks lot better than those rusty hunks of metal that we brought back from the trip. When I saw what you were buying, it had me wondering. It seems as though you can do wonders with these old machines.
Rod, sometimes I wonder if the tractors or most of my projects in general are doing a "wonder" on me......
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It's all good Brenda. It's just time now. I'm stuck in upstate Ct at Lime Rock race park for the LeMans race all week.B) All the tractor shows that I could be going to and I'm stuck here watching anoying race cars.:(! I should have brought something with me to work on....lol
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  • 2 weeks later...
A little update on my progress. I finally got the lines made for the hydraulic manifold and everything all hooked up and after 3 hrs cleaning and repairing the manifold the hydraulics now work. Not only that they work unbelievably well. Not any new pics since there's no real visible change but it's wonderful news to me after all the work and time put into this project and since the hydraulics were an after thought from a donor tractor that was in less than perfect condition. Now then if I just had a decent radiator that didn't pour the water out nearly as fast as you put it in I could spend some real play time on it. Tackling the electrical system will be next.
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Dave, Can the radiator be soldered to stop the leaking? If it is brass, it can probably be fixed. I also had an aluminum radiator that sprung a leak on one of the tubes between the front and back rows. I didn't have any way to solder that, so I used duck tape to make a small dam around the leak, then filled up the dam with JB Weld epoxy. Ran that car for several years afterward and radiator never leaked again. Sometimes it is amazing what will work. I fixed something yesterday that amazed myself. One of my wife's watergardens got a 4 inch crack in it and leaked most of the water out. This is the pre-formed type. We drained it and dried it out. I cleaned the entire area around the crack and about 8 inches from it in all directions. I sanded the area along the crack. Now for the fun part - with My Weller soldering gun and some small strips that I cut from another pre-form (made with same plastic material) we had, I welded up the crack. I melted the plastic along the crack with the soldering gun and used the small strips as filler rod. When I was finished with the crack repair, then I sanded the entire area and sprayed three coats of the magic leak repair stuff that they advertise on TV. You know the stuff that seals up a screen door mounted in the bottom of a boat. Did that yesterday and filled up the watergarden. Still full this morning. Doesn't seem to be leaking. This was my first attempt at welding plastic.
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WTG on the plastic Rod. Never know about some things till you try. I have given thought to several ideas on the radiator, main problem is it's rotten from the inside out. As I pull the heat webbing away from the flutes it pulls another hole in it instead of letting go to gain access to do any kind of repair. I could pour it full pf stop leak but I really don't want to gum up everything. I may be forced to do that for the interim. This is one of the many REALLY good reasons to stick to the smaller tractors, these larger one's can get expensive.
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quote:
Originally posted by D-17_Dave
This is one of the many REALLY good reasons to stick to the smaller tractors, these larger one's can get expensive.
That's why I slowed down on Farmalls. Spending 3500 on the only tractor my grandpa bought new was worth it but after buying it the 3rd time we could prolly bought 4 of em lol
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The only radiator leak sealer that I use nowadays is Bar's Leak. It works great, and I have never had it to clog a radiator.
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Well, I bit the bullet and poured a dose of DIKE brand stop leak in it and it seems to be holding for now. Put a blanket over the radiator and warmed it up good to near 200 so things would seat in good and get the goo to melt in where it needed to be. After that I tweeked the timing and made a few adjustments on the inj. pump. It starts good now and runs out really smooth. Good power and lugging torque. I still have a list of things to do but I decided it needed to look like a tractor too so I put the sheet metal on it. I had to loose the doctor'ed up muffler since my hood has only the small hole so I opted for a straight pipe and I had this section of stainless lying around. I'll have to shorten it just a bit but it sounds good. I'll likely get the remainder of the 3 point hitch on it and fit the loader on it and get it operational before doing anything with paint. At least it looks like a tractor now.dOd:D


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Dave, Run the tractor for a while at normal operating speed and watch the pipe for a hot spot. That is a node in the exhaust flow and where you should cut the pipe to have a tuned exhaust.
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I haven't had time or reason to run it for very long yet Rod. I do need to shorten it up some as it's nearly to tall for the shop door. I mainly put it on like that for the looks and it's not too loud. I hope to get something with a resonator in it that looks like a straight pipe. I did get the wiring back together today so I can start it from the seat now. Generator will work but it's not inducing the cut in coil in the regulator by it's self so I need to look into that. The good news is the generator does work and that's huge as the power steering pump is driven off the rear of the generator so an easy replacement is not available. They are nearly made out of unabtainium.
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