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huffy

Need electrical help . . . again

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huffy
I wired up the headlights on my 2012 following the wiring diagram for the AC front headlight kit in the Operation section of this site. That is, I merged the two wires coming off the headlights into one, which I ran to one post on the toggle switch, and then I ran another wire from the other post on the toggle switch to the Load post on the voltage regulator. The lights would not turn on. If I take the wire off the Load post of the voltage regulator and touch it to the positive battery terminal, the lights work. Does this mean that my voltage regulator has gone bad?

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MysTiK
I dunno about yours; but I had same disappointment with my 716. But I accidentally left the switch in the on position; and then went mowing. I had to get off the running tractor - and surprise.! sm03 Mine has a dual circuit alternator - the lights are wired on the second part of the alt - which does nothing unless running. So, it does not drain the battery, cos it doesn't use the battery. dOd Works for me. Will that work for you? I dunno.?

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Talntedmrgreen
I'm not sure if that bad terminal is a sign of other regulator issues or not Chris. I know I have one machine wired to the 'L' terminal and the light works fine. My others are simply wired to the + terminal.

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huffy
It was wired to the L terminal when I took it apart. I'm just afraid that maybe I messed something up when I took the cover off the regulator to clean and paint it during the resto. I'm wondering if there's some way to test it. The wire going from one side of the ammeter, and a wire coming from the grounding plate on top of the motor also connect to the L terminal, so I suppose that I need to make sure the regulator's working right even if I just wire the lights to the + terminal on the battery.

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rokon2813
I'm no electrical expert, but why would the "L" terminal, (I'm assuming "L" stands for lights?) be wired to ground ??? For that matter, the ammeter either ??

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huffy
Dan: I'm no electrical expert either. In fact, I'm an electrical "idiot." :D That's why I really need help. The wiring diagram for my tractor shows a wire coming off the driver's side left post of the ammeter going to the top left post of the regulator (the Load post, I believe it's called). It also shows a wire coming off of the engine-top ground plate going to that post. The wiring diagram I followed is this one: http://www.simpletractors.com/images/wiring/lighting.jpg The wiring diagram for the lights shows that one of the wires for the lights goes to that post also. Here's the wiring diagram for the lights: http://www.simpletractors.com/images/lightkit/figure2.jpg

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huffy
I agree that it looks that way in that diagram, so I'll try relocating that wire and see if that helps. In the other diagram it looks like it's showing that wire going to that L post. Also, in the light bar diagram it looked to me like they had that ground wire running to the mounting bolt, but then a small wire running over to the L post. But, again, I am willing to bet that you're right and I misread the diagram. Have I mentioned before how much I hate electrical? The only thing in life I've ever found more confusing, and that I'm worse with, is women.

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PhanDad
rokon2813 is correct. Here's some pics of my B-110 before I took it apart to turn it into a HB-110 with hydraulic lift: Top terminal wires:




And the ground wire (the other end is visible in the above pic):


And IMO, you can never have enough digital pics of something before you take it apart.

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MysTiK
Yet another reason I am happy I discovered my tractor is a boy. Hint: check the front pto crank. 8) On the lights, I was lucky that all the other stuff in the dash tower, etc. was good to go - altho when I first looked in there, it looked to be a mess. I consider it to be the "do not disturb" area; it all works well. Thank you. sm01 I'm an electrical idiot also. And these wiring diagrams could be a little more clear, easier to trace. Even then, it has to be translated in reality to what you see compared to schematic. It's a grind to just do it right once. Then it's perfect.

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huffy
PhanDad: Thank you very much for the pics. I actually did take several pictures of it before I took it apart, and made notes too. But, that ground wire was not on there before I took it apart. Someone must have removed it somewhere along the line during the 45 years between when it left Port Washington and I got hold of it. sm06

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rokon2813
quote:
Originally posted by huffy
I agree that it looks that way in that diagram, so I'll try relocating that wire and see if that helps. In the other diagram it looks like it's showing that wire going to that L post. Also, in the light bar diagram it looked to me like they had that ground wire running to the mounting bolt, but then a small wire running over to the L post. But, again, I am willing to bet that you're right and I misread the diagram. Have I mentioned before how much I hate electrical? The only thing in life I've ever found more confusing, and that I'm worse with, is women.
Electrical and women can be pretty similar.. They are either turned on or turned off, you can encounter very little resistance or lots, sometimes the juice is flowing, sometimes not. However, the on and off switches are VERY well hidden, and NOONE has the scematics. :O:O:D:D:D

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GrincheyOne
The ground from the V/R should come from the "frame" grounding screw on the base of the V/R (that is if you are using the factory standard V/R. I will email you the simple wiring diagram for the Landlords. There are two the first is the circuit without the solenoid start, and the other is with the solenoid. Be careful with the V/R they are a priceless item! Wayne

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timflury
quote:
Originally posted by rokon2813

Electrical and women can be pretty similar.. They are either turned on or turned off, you can encounter very little resistance or lots, sometimes the juice is flowing, sometimes not. However, the on and off switches are VERY well hidden, and NOONE has the scematics. :O:O:D:D:D
Being an electrician,,,,,, This guy gets an honorary Journeyman's card!!! LOLdOddOddOd:D

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PhanDad
I'm not an expert on voltage regulators for sure; but I wouldn't think having it hooked to ground was good for it. You said you hooked the ground lead to the "L" terminal. On my B-110 (pics above and I thought the same as a 2110/2), there isn't an "L" terminal on the voltage regulator. The 3rd terminal (closest to the gas tank) is the "BAT" terminal. I believe some other type voltage regulators have an "L" terminal located under the unit if I remember correctly. Did you hook the ground wire to the 3rd terminal? If you did, then I would think you would have blown the main fuse as current from the battery would have flowed to the grounded voltage regulator "BAT" terminal. So maybe all you need to do is replace the fuse (at the ammeter) to restore battery connectivity to the "BAT" terminal. Hopefully grounding the "L" or "BAT" terminal didn't fry that part of the voltage regulator. If the fuse blows again, then the voltage regulator "BAT" terminal has gone to ground. Hopefully someone with more knowledge of voltage regulators will chime in and offer some better advice.

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Willy
I agree with Bill you more than likely blow a fuse,I doubt you hurt the VR as the voltage would go from the batt terminal right to ground. Good luck and if you get a good wireing diagram of a female I hope you will share it. I've been looking for one for 53 years.

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huffy
That did it! Looked at that fuse and it was blown to smithereens. Put a new one in and the lights work fine. Thanks, guys! By the way, this tractor is most definitely female. This is obvious from my utter confusion as to how it works, the mass amount of my attention it commands, and the sheer volume of my money that it saps up.

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