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geezer

3212H wont start now

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geezer
i have a 1971 simplicity soveriegn 3212H and degreased the engine. now it won't start i did'nt get water in the carb so i know that can't be the problem plus i have removed it to make sure. i thought that there may be sediment in the bowl so i tore it down and found nothing in it and made sure all the ports and jets were in good condition all is good reassembled it and mounted it back on the engine went to start it and it still wont start. now i'm stumped on this one . any help would be greatly appreciated. matt

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Ben_H
check the ignition componets. they may have gotten wet or disconnected. That happened before i restored my 314H. The guy pressure washed it and it wouldn't start and after the restoration it works.

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geezer
thanks for the help guys. i did all of what you've suggested and now it fires and stops. is it possilble that maybe it had jumped timeing while trying to restart it? i don't think it to be possible but you never know. i'm pretty good with small engines and this time the small engines have got me stumped

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arnoldir
Sounds like my Troy-Built Rototiller when it gets rained on, Kohler K161. Likely water got into the carb, gets in around the choke and throttle shafts. Try draining the float bowl first.

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geezer
well the mistery is over . i found out the problem with it not starting . and that was the noozle in the carb was damaged (my fault) i damaged the slot for the screwdriver and the gap is now to big and allows fuel to flow out to fast . it starts and runs real bad so i'll have to replace the noozle and it will be fine . by the way what is the right adjustment for the noozle? it is a two piece carb on a 12 horse briggs? thanks again everyone for you input on this matter.

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Kent
I don't see how it could have jumped timing -- that is a direct, gear-driven connection. I'm still guessing -- note I said guessing -- that it's either fuel or weak spark. 1) Have you tried drying the points by inserting a piece of folded paper (or thin cardboard like a matchbook cover) between the points and pulling it out a couple of times... I've had to do this after adjusting points to get the oil film off that came from my feeler gauge... 2) Some would likely advise against -- but I've sometimes had success with a VERY LIGHT shot of starting fluid (ether) down the carb throat to get an old engine to fire and run the first time -- then you can often putz with adjustments, choke etc., enough to keep it running -- and start again. But, in these cases it wouldn't initially start without that extra help.... These old starter/generators turn over slow, the magneto spark is already weak while starting, and there's not much "room for error" in carb adjustments, etc. The little extra boost is all it takes to get them going -- but be careful with the ether -- and only use a very little bit at a time. I saw a guy almost literally blow the heads off an old 6 volt VW with it ... I think he did pull some head studs with the "explosion" -- it sounded like crap when it finally started and he drove off....

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geezer
I removed the voltage regulator to see if it had gotten water in it and remounted it(i was very carful not to soak everything with water )i was told that after the voltage regulator was removed that the polarity had to be reset . what do you think on that ?

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