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THANE

Mower deck spindle and idler questions...

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THANE
This deck is from a Simplicity 725. The center spindle on this deck was rumbling and the idler pulley was shot... I need help on 3 things. 1. The lower pulley is stuck pretty good, but it's a little too flimsy to use a puller on it. Can I support the mounting flange and smack bolt from the top? And will this drive the bearings off too? I found a post once about rebuilding these before, but now I can't find it. 2. I broke the bolt off the idler bracket that mounts to the deck. Is this pressed on? I can't get it out with punch. 3. Where is the best place to get the idler pulley?
[img]http://www.auctionadvisory.com/72mower1.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.auctionadvisory.com/72mower2.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.auctionadvisory.com/72mower3.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.auctionadvisory.com/72mower4.JPG[/img]

[img]http://www.auctionadvisory.com/72mower5.JPG[/img]

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RayS
I would try penetrating oil or heat and try to loosen up the pulley on the shaft ( make sure there is no set screw or that is loosened up in pulley). The old cast iron pulleys had set screws. I don`t think the stamped pulleys did. You can`t drive the shaft out the bottom with the pulley in place because there is a woodruff key on the shaft inside the pulley bore. There is a washer and bearing below the pulley and you won`t beable to drive that woodruff key through that hard bearing. The best place to get that broken eye bolt and idler would be a local Simplicity dealer. The idler pulley part number is 2108386 and is around $19.00 and the eyebolt is part number 2171815 and is 12 dollars. Below is the parts manual. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCBEN8arL0rE3Cvh5kbp796Dq

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CDeHeer
That deck is not original to a 725. Looks like the 42" from a 3000 series. I found an idler at McMaster carr for my 3310V. Supporting the mounting flange in a vise and hammering will drive the key into the washers/bearing. Make sure the set screw is all the way out to make sure it's not contacting the key soak with penetrating oil, tap around the edge of the pulley while applying upward pressure with a prybar near the shaft. As for the broken bolt I think your shopping for a new idler bracket.

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RayS
Thane, the eye bolt is not pressed in. It has rust welded itself to the bushing in the idler bracket. Try some pentrating oil or heat and drive it out. The newer deck like on my prestige have grease zerks in the idler brackets. Something they shoud have done along time ago. I have added zerks to all my mower deck idlers and the sundstrand idler brackets as well.

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RayS
Deck isn`t original but when buying a new replacement from Simplicity part number 2103302 replaces part number 108354. The replacement shell has the narrower opening like on the 7000 & 7100 series tractors.

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THANE
Got the eye bolt out with heat and it punched right out. I think I can fashion what I need to replace it. ...still fighting that pulley on the arbor. I may cut a couple pieces of angle iron to fit under the pulley as a base and pound it out.

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THANE
I GOT IT!! 2 pieces of angle iron... grinding a cup in each side so they fit snug against the arbor... some 2x4 cribbing to suspend it... put nut on arbor... a few serious blows with a 10 lb sledge...
[img]http://www.auctionadvisory.com/72mower6.jpg[/img]

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GrincheyOne
You could use a tie rod separating fork also. Heat the shaft, apply PB Blaste (let it sit overnight)r. with a piece of pipe to fit over the shaft but contact the hub, bang it onto the shaft about 1/8" or so. then use the fork to move it in the opposite direction. If the shaft diameter is too large for the opening in the fork, just gradually work one tine around the shaft between the hub and the spindle housing. I've already used wood splitting wedges to do the same coaxing Wayne

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