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joelk

Briggs 16 single for Triad

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BLT
The Briggs engine is on the same crankshaft centerline as the Kohler, but the base mounts are different so you'll need to drill four holes. I would lay the Briggs engine in for a first fit to see where any adjustments have to be made. Other then that you have to work out the exhaust and maybe make new spacers to adapt drive shaft. Wiring it up should be fairly easy and I am a phone call away from you.

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Brettw
I believe a driveshaft for a briggs single would be needed. I may have one if someone could get a length, or post an ad in the parts wanted. You will also have to determine if it is a rubber coupler or flex disc required in conjunction with the driveshaft for that engine. As I recall it is a rubber coupler. Other than that, there is no reason that a Briggs 16 can't power the tractor, but in the long run, if the tractor is in good shape, I would look to repower with a newer twin. You say you have all of the electronics, but does that include all the harnesses to interface with all of the new nanny's? Not sure how that would work with the swap either.

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joelk
Thanks for the input. I hadn't considered all the safeties. I have a line on an inexpensive 16hp so that's what got me thinking that way. Just want a reliable worker. My experience is only with fdt to date.

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PhanDad
Based on this pic of my re-powered GTH-L:


And this pic of the front frame of my 75th:


I'm thinking the front mounting holes for the Briggs might already be there. One thing for sure, the oil drain cutout is too far to the rear in the newest Sovereign frames. As to drive shaft length, based on the info in my drive shaft reference post (http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=119807), the Briggs drive shaft with rubber coupler is 19 1/8" long. An early 7116 (mfg 1690477/8) was manufactured without a rubber coupler so that drive shaft must be about 21 1/4" long. The Triad drive shaft didn't use a rubber coupler and is much shorter (17 1/4"); I don't think it would be a good idea to use 4" spacers, so you'd need different drive shaft, or you could position the Briggs closer to the rear of the tractor and go with a shorter drive shaft. The stock Briggs install in a 7100 frame has a guard between the engine and battery/gas tank as can be seen in this pic:


As to the wiring, if the Briggs is the newer type with gear tooth starter, the harness would be fine except for the engine connector since the Triad was mag ignition like the Briggs 16. You'd have to learn to live with the various "nannies" or by-pass some of them. However, if the Briggs is the older S/G variety, you have more work on your hands, you have to install a voltage regulator to mate with the S/G. Locating it isn't easy, this is my solution:


It does fit in there under the gas tank support.

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haykarenhardy
Some Farm Tractor voltage regulators were mounted on the generator, I put a 16hp starter generator in a 7117 and mounted the regulator on the generator, was glad I did as I needed to clean the regulator contacts. Stan

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PhanDad
Here's the location Ray mentioned above:


I checked that location when I installed the Briggs in the GTH-L. The issue is there is interference in the 7100 series. Definitely the little power terminal board and I think the solenoid that's mounted on inside "face" of the dash tower. I decided to use a different location.

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