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7790 Axle Tube Play Question


gew59

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I noticed an oil leak at the right side axle tube. When I wiped the oil from the seal, I notice fine silver filings. I took all the pieces off to replace the seal. I then noticed that if I lifted on the axle, the axle tube would lift 1/8" or so. There is no play between the axle tube and axle. Should there be play between the axle tube and housing/seal? (I would think not, but do not know). Thanks
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I would say no there should not be much play. How do the roller bearings look? Is the axle tube worn where it rides in the bearings?
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I took the seal off and had a look. It is either the axle tube or bearing on the right side. No matter what, I probably need to get the axle tube out and inspect it and the braring. From what I have read, the case needs to be split to do this. Is there a good post that has this information? If it will help, I will post a pic of what I can see for additional advice. Thanks
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Here is a pic looking in at the top of the axle tube while the axle tube is at rest:


Here is a pic with me lifting the axle tube. You can see the play between the 2 pics. I would guess the axle tube, but it is just a guess.


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I would say the bearings are gone, but that's just a quick look at your pictures. You can remove the right side of the transaxle while leaving the rest of it undisturbed. From an old post of mine: You need to download the repair manual first. Then loosen the axle (the axle not the tube) by loosening the collar on the left side; and then slide the axle to the right so you can remove the snap ring holding the differential on. Then you remove the diff (watch the axle keys - don't let them fall into the differential - a small rag stuffed into the diff just below the axle tube will help prevent this). Finally, you can pull the axle through the tube and out to the left side, out of the tractor. Now, there are two ways to go about the rest - you can pull the entire transaxle case out and disassemble it on a bench, or you can leave it in the tractor and only remove the right side. I've done it both ways and would probably just pull the right side if doing it again. But - you'll have to remove the Sundstrand pump pulley first (it's in the way of the trans case coming off), and I have not been able to get one of these off with a puller. Suggest you cut it off with a Sawzall. (edit - some have been able to get these off with an air hammer). Then pull the right side of the trans case off, remove the old tube, install new tube, and reassemble. The manuals are really good to have though... Some pics of one of mine: http://s302.photobucket.com/albums/nn102/csa_forever_2008/Large%20frame%20axle%20tube%20replacement/ I would say if you disassemble, check that right side to see if the bearing is still there... probably not.
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Thanks - I will disassmeble tomorrow after I get home from work. Hopefully it is the bearing. Will post pics of what I find.
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I hope you don`t have to replace the axle tube. A year ago they were NLA for the diesels. Not sure if they ever started making them again. The diesel has about 1-1/2" - 2" mor length on each side of tractor than a non diesel tractor. The hydro rearends out of a gaser will work in the diesel. That is what I have in mine.
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Ray, that's interesting. I had not heard that before. Did they come with larger wheels/tires, hence the need for a wider track?
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Found the problem and it is the axle tube. I thought it was the axle that is NLA. I called a Simplicty dealer today just to make sure and I was told that 1673801 is available for around $170. Do I have the correct part number? I used partstree.com Also,I had to cut the pulley off - heat, hammer, gibbs did not work. Are the bearings pressed into the case? Here are a couple pics:




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I can not find the part number of the pulley I cut off. I can only find the part number for the FAN on the pulley. Does anyone know what the part number is?
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I don't see a number for the pulley either unless they come as a unit. I did however look up the fan number for a 3414 H and it is the same. I would have to assume the pulley would be the same too and if you can't find a new one, I have a used one or 2. ;) Yes, I apparently can get them off. LOL
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Thanks - I finally found the pulley. It was hidden on the "clutch and break group" on partstree.com. Wow, I even had to make another cut to get it off. Thank you for responding. I will order the parts tomorrow morning.
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That is the correct part number and it is available again according to Jack`s site as well. If you don`t find a fan I am sure I have a bunch of them in my pulley box. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCBEN8aoN5rE3CNj5kbp796Dq Scott, that is correct the tube is longer so the axle is longer as well. That is the only difference. They use the same tires just a wider stance. Not sure while they are wider but it is archived in forum topics. When I brought my diesel home it had a broken axle tube. It was not available last spring. Atleast Simplicity will start production of parts when they run out. Now if they would make the blades for the revitalizer attachment again.
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Here is a new pulley on ebay for about half the price and is the correct pulley. http://www.ebay.com/itm/SIMPLICITY-ALLIS-CHALMERS-166173-PULLEY-/110918591311?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19d343634f
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Thanks everyone for the pulley information. Sounds like I got lucky on the axle tube. Are the bearings pressed into the case? Does everyone use a socket to remove and install them?
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I picked up my parts today. I would like someone to comment on the pic of the axle tube bearings. The one on the left is what is in the tractor. The one on the right is the on that I received from Simplicity (part # 1652469). Which one is correct or are both correct.


Could this be part of my problem?
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Looks like they put more bearings in the newer ones. Do they mic out the same? The guy from Australia that replaced a axle tube earlier this year ran into a simular situation. More than likely a different vendor now that they used 25 years ago.
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Yes, they are both .755. The new one has Torrington stamped and the old one has Japan stamped in it. So, it was more the different design that had me worried. So, I guess in they go. Do you see any issues?
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The 7790 works great. Started mowing the lawn and threw a belt - An easy fix. If anything goes wrong with the trans, I will repost on this thread. Thanks everyone for the advice. I was out today and bought a snow-away, 11 HP Tecumseh , 32". Only catch is, that is was under-water. Here are a couple of pics:




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you should keep that under water till your ready to take it apart. :O;);) BTW, is that a Camaro in "progress" ??
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Hi rokon2813, Yes, it is a 68 camaro and has turned out to be way more work than I thought. Never buy a primered car unless photos of what is under the primer are shown! I have had to replace the full floor pan, full trunk pan, toe panels, rocker panels, full qtrs, trunk extension panels, trunk drop off panels, inner & outer wheel wells, inner & outer tail panels, dash to cowl panel, deck panel, frame rails and I can't remember what other panels. Here are a couple of pics. The first is just before I decided to remove the qtrs and tail panel. The other is how bad the subframe mounts where. Sorry for being off-topic, but thought it would be of interest. Also, I am still waiting for my belts to arrive to really use the new axle shaft.




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Now thats a Resto. Sounds like you bought a pattern and your building a car from scratch... Sorry it worked out that way.
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