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littlemarv

23D carb issues

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littlemarv
I need some experience seeing as I don't have enough of my own..... How do I tune the carb on a 23D? I put in a rebuild kit, now I need to dial it in, but I am not having any luck. It runs, but it doesn't run right. It pops and shoots black smoke, then sounds like its dying until it pops again. I have a tach, I can't get it to idle smooth around 1200, it only revs up to 2500 and it pops and sputters and sounds horrible on accell. It fires at idle but won't start unless you open the throttle all the way. Should I try and adjust the idle speed and mixture first? Do you only mess with the needle jet under load? (like mower running) What should idle and wide open rpm be? One thing I noticed about the carb is when the engine is cranking, the throttle shaft is bouncing up and down about 1/8" and the little casting that is roll pinned to the throttle shaft that holds the idle speed adjuster is wobbled out. Could the throttle shaft flopping up and down and back and forth be the root cause of all this headache? I would think its gotta be sucking air there. But the popping and black smoke indicate overfueling to me... Thanks in advance!

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littlemarv
Now that I had a day to think about it, my problem started after I filled the fuel tank. Maybe the pressure from a full tank of fuel is flooding the carb whereas before when I had a quarter tank or less it ran o.k. This requires investigation.

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rokon2813
First, to answer your question, a loose throttle shaft will cause problems and it will suck air there. However, you should still be able to get it to run decent. Next, if you have a 23D, I assume you are working with an early Landlord or early B 10. Either one has a metal screen in the bottom of the tank that plugs up and/or rots off. That could be why you adding fuel makes a difference. First thing I would do is take the fuel line off the carb and blow back through it to see if that screen is plugged. If the screen is clear, you will have a steady, fairly strong flow of gas through that hose. Personally, I remove the screen and add a good inline filter. After that test, I would start with the 2 adjustment screws on the carb set at about 1 1/2 turns out. If you can get it to start, turn the bottom screw in or out to tune at wide open throttle. There should be a spot where it runs good, turn the screw out till it loads up, then back in past the sweet spot to where it runs poorly again, and set it about half way between those 2 points. If you get it to run decent that way, then go to the other screw (idle) and do the same thing, while holding the throttle shaft in the closed position. I usually go back to the high speed again, and the low once more. That procedure will get you pretty close. You may need to tweek them a bit afterward. As for RPM, I don't know the factory idle setting, but a 23D should go as low as 900 or 800 without a problem. With a loose throttle shaft, I'd be happy with about 1000 High RPM depends on the application, 3000 to 3600, but on engines this old, I tend to keep mine between 2800 and 3000. Another thing to check since you have had the carb off, is the governor adjustment. Easiest way I kow is: Loosen the bolt on the governor shaft (engine not running) Hold the throttle shaft wide open, with a small flat screwdriver, turn the governor shaft, inside the governor arm, gently as far as it will go toward the wide open position, tighten the nut. NOTE; sometimes it takes 3 hands for this :O That's just how I do it. ;) Let us know.

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littlemarv
Thanks rokon, I didn't mention that I took the tank out and had it repaired. There is no screen anymore but I put a Briggs inline filter in it. First I will check fuel flow AFTER that filter- and the inline shutoff valve I installed. Then I'm going to set my screws 1 1/2 out again, drain the tank down, and start over. Funny how it ran better before I filled it up. May take a few days, I will report back.

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Talntedmrgreen
Your throttle shaft flopping is something I've battled as well...I took a small peice of electrical tape and lightly wrapped the little casting simply to apply a bit of resistance. It straightened right out, enough so that it ran smooth for cultivating the garden last summer. Since it's still working fine, I have yet to further repair. Also, is there the potential that your needle & float are not properly adjusted? I had a rough runner once, after a carb rebuild, and the pin that hold the float had actually worked it's way out far enough to lose it's hold on one side. The result was an engine that struggled to start, then, once running, would flood uncontrollably and cough and sputter like yours.

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littlemarv
When I went through the carb, I set the float so it was level when the carb was upside down. I will try the governor setup as well, haven't got a chance to do it yet, too d:||m hot out today. Thanks guys....

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littlemarv
Well, I adjusted the governor, checked the flow after the filter and shutoff, set the screws to 1 1/2 out. Now it won't fire. By the time I figured out the points were wet the battery was dead and the carb was flooded. Sheesh. The tractor was outside during a brief shower the other day. Guess I'll try again Thursday.

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