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RayS

Thermal Arc Metalizing (Done)

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RayS
Anbody ever consider this process for a 48" deck. I am going to have a deck sandblasted this week and I was offered this service as well. Was told by the operations manager that it wouldn`t add that much of a cost. Also that the paint would adhere to it as well. I plan to paint any way and my decks are never stored outside, so would this be a waste of money? The entire deck I can get sand blasted for less than 1/2 of what I use to get it done for from another guy. Will know more on my cost of the thermal arc process this week. http://goabcservices.com/index_files/processes.htm

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HerbP
Well, maybe it depends how many times you intend to sandblast the item in question over the years. Whenever you sandblast, you lose some of the base metal... So maybe adding metal in a durable coating is not a bad idea... I've always wanted to try dry ice blasting... There's a guy around here who'll come to your place and blast what have you... After he leaves, the only mess you have to clean up is the particles of paint that used to be on your items. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dry-ice_blasting

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RayS
It wouldn't be sandblasted again for me. It would be stored inside as long as I own it. I was just looking at it not rusting in the future. The guy that is offering is a friend of mine so the blasting and coating is dirt cheap, for me anyways. I may just skip the thermal arc coating process but he was only $10 bucks for that on an entire deck. They use this stuff on windmills and is suppose to have better corrosion resistance than galvanizing and the paint actually stays intact supposedly unlike on zinc plated parts.

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GLPointon
Ray that coating prosess is how most all kitchen/bath faucets & door hardware are plated now. thats why you can get so many differant looks ie: pewter, nickle, bronze, etc... The arc creates a micro layer of whatever metal he puts in with the item to be plated...(I think) Anyway for only a 10 spot I'd do it for sure...

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MysTiK
I'm curious what the regular price is - but for $10, I doubt you can go wrong. Sounds high tek. Coatings often do sound like that. Your friend might like the bragging rights too. But on a deck stored indoors, it might not make a noticeable difference for a long time - which is the idea anyway. Give it a try. Your friend is making it easy by the sound of things. An interesting test would be to have a small piece of steel also done; and leave it outside year round just to see what happens in the long run in worst conditions. Although, under the deck is the worst possible conditions already; except indoors, it can dry out. I wonder if better adhesion could withstand the under deck environment. So again, I see how your friend might have an interest in results. Possible mutual benefit.

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Steve72
Ray--we are into platings and cleaning techniques for steel here at our training facility. I would alum oxide blast the deck to remove EVERYTHING on it including rust since the deck steel is fairly thick (be more careful on the thin cover panels). The deck will then hold paint better as the minor etching provides a mechanical bond with the paint. Ice blasting is not abrasive enough to remove rust or etch the surface of the deck---but does not create a waste stream as Herb noted above. I probably would hang onto my 10 bucks as the coatings won't make paint adhere any better--maybe even less.

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RayS
It is going to be glass bead blasted. I restored a couple of tractors that were done with this type of media and they turn out great or at least to me any ways. No problems in the past with sand either. I am on the fence with the thermal arc process. $10.00 isn't really a big deal and I don`t expect it to hold up long on the bottom of the deck. Since the bottoms get a major blasting every time I mow. My concerns is with scrapes on the exterior causing rust. I may pass on this process all together. I was assured that there wouldn't be a problem with paint adhesion. I was told that the coating would last at least 20 years.

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GLPointon
Ray I would have to agree with Steve too if your gonna paint it anyway. I dont know why but I was under the impression you were gonna just get it platted to prevent rust &/or to look unique. sm00 But I wonder if that process would protect the underside of the deck better after the paint gets scoured off by the grass/grit/etc.? Or keep grass from sticking to it as much? Good luck...
quote:
Originally posted by RayS
It is going to be glass bead blasted. I restored a couple of tractors that were done with this type of media and they turn out great or at least to me any ways. No problems in the past with sand either. I am on the fence with the thermal arc process. $10.00 isn't really a big deal and I don`t expect it to hold up long on the bottom of the deck. Since the bottoms get a major blasting every time I mow. My concerns is with scrapes on the exterior causing rust. I may pass on this process all together. I was assured that there wouldn't be a problem with paint adhesion. I was told that the coating would last at least 20 years.
I definitely plan to paint. The bottom of deck is no concern to me on rust issues. Gator blades and leaves in the fall clean clippings and rust from the bottom of the deck better than anything I have seen and nothing last long that is applied to the underside.

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RayS
I definitely plan to paint. The bottom of deck is no concern to me on rust issues. Gator blades and leaves in the fall clean clippings and rust from the bottom of the deck better than anything I have seen and nothing last long that is applied to the underside. The plating was my plan to prevent rust on the top side.

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GLPointon
Those look like a great idea for me since I don't bag my grass clippings. How are they with mow-n-vacing leaves in the fall? Easy to order from Jack's too....Thanks Ray, I'm gonna try 'em was just ready to order a set and a belt for that AC 48" deck that was your b4...
quote:
Originally posted by RayS
http://gatorblade.com/ http://www.oregonchain.com/pro/products/oep/G6.htm http://www.jackssmallengines.com/gator_blades.cfm

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RayS
I can tell you this on using them and using my vac system. Before I started to uses them, I would have to empty my vac trailer 3 times before I got the leaves picked up. Now I can do the whole yard and empty it one time. I use them year round now. I have been using them for over 10 years and wouldn`t dream of ever buying an OEM blade ever again. The blades stay shaper longer than OEM as well. I have the original blades hanging on the wall for my Prestige that I pulled off the deck when I brought it home.

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PhanDad
Simplicity gull wing Gator blades in set of 3 (@$13.33 ea): http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-x3-16-3-4-MULCHING-GATOR-BLADE-48-SIMPLICITY-TRACTOR-LAWN-MOWER-/360420317362?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53eab998b2 set of 6 (@$9.67 ea): http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-x6-16-3-4-MULCHING-GATOR-BLADE-48-SIMPLICITY-TRACTOR-LAWN-MOWER-/170752514333?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item27c1a4991d set of 9(@$8.33 ea): http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-x9-16-3-4-MULCHING-GATOR-BLADE-48-SIMPLICITY-TRACTOR-LAWN-MOWER-/360420317123?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item53eab997c3 All with free shipping.

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GLPointon
Awsome job! Looks like a new deck. Did the other parts turn out as well or did he do just the deck pan for now? A cool finish (almost looks like its primed) I wish there was someone here to do that. I have alot of "backed-up blasting work. I always did my own sanding/grinding off paint/rust...but I'm gettin old +/or tired |) Thanks Bill for the Gator Blade links, thats a great price and free shipping too! I'm ordering a setsm01

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RayS
That was blasted and the zinc coating applied. It hasn`t been primed yet. Below in the link they mention it will last 44 years on a bridge with 0% base metal rust. http://www.tmsmetalizing.com/applications/steelBridges.htm

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