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jverhaag

4041 drive belts frustration

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jverhaag
I am so frustrated. I needed to change the drive belts on the tractor. It was a pain in the rear to get them out, I had to pull the engine in the end. I now have the engine back in and the belts back in. However I can't seem to get the @%#$ thing back together now. The white plastic "plate" seems too close to the pulley. In order to get the spacers in I need to "warp" the plastic plate. Once I get them in the bolts that attach the plastic plate to the drive pulley seem to be to short and won't tighten. What am I doing wrong?










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D-17_Dave
The flange that the fiber disc is bolted to should slide freely on the splined shaft it's riding on. If it doesn't, you need to remove it, clean it and grease the splines so it will. Trouble is you'll have to pull the engine back out to do it properly. I can't guess why the bolts won't tighten unless you stripped them or they may be to short. If your using the same bolts you removed, and I figure you are, then make sure the bolt in the center of the pulley is not loose and allowed the pulley to rotate of alignment. IF you switch to a longer bolt be carefull as you can go too deep and wipe out the stator for the charging system. If you have stripped them out the only option is replace the flywheel or HELI core the holes.They must be tight for the rear pto or it will all self destruct.

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jverhaag
AHHHHHHHXX( I was really afraid I would have to pull the engine again. I had so much trouble getting the belts off and then getting them back on. Is it always this tough? I did clean and grease the splines before I put it back together. I may have put too much grease in the end of the barrel and as a result it is not sliding in as far as it should. I REALLY don't want to mess up the stator. After reading your post I noticed that the bolts that came out of the fiber disc are not identical. SO I'm not sure which one is the right one. Do you know how long the bolts should be?

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RayS
The parts manual should state the length of the bolts. They do in most any that I have looked at. http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCBEN8arMYrE3CSl5kbp796Dq http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=ifDzFO9bsM8sF5DLb6lEP5NRQpe

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StanD
Bolts are 7/16-14 X 4 1/2 inches long. Looking at your photo upper & lower pulleys appear to be about 1/8 inch out of alignment. While you are at it check the lower pivet shaft & bushings. They are almost always worn & prevent proper alignment & equal belt tension.

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D-17_Dave
The outer pulley bolts are 3/8 bolts, center bolt holding the flywheel on is 7/16". I'd have to measure mine for the rear ppto to be sure what length they are. As for the engine, if your used to it having the engine out in 20 minutes is normal with a chain hoist. If you'll take a ratchet strap and tie the clutch pulley all the way down you'll have an easier time working them into place if the slack adjustment is correct. Since the pulleys face each other, roll the inner engine belt up against the flywheel. This will allow the lower side to come off the open face of the tranny shaft pulley. Leave it on the engine for a handle or drop it off once the other belt is off the outer face of the engine pulley. Fuel lines, cables, regulator and rectifier, engine plug and battery cable, rear pto bolts if so equiped. Sinply knowing waht all and where the connections come apart make fairly easy work of it. There is a plug in the end of the splined drive. Most have an air vent hole that will bleed off the extra grease. If your doesn't drill a small hole in the center. Don't remove it as dirt will enter the splines and destroy them. I've also drilled out the mounting holes to half inch and tack welded a small bar on the bolt heads so they can't spin. Now I only have to access the bottom nuts to remove it.

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midnightpumpkin
John, Have you tried loosening the 4 engine mounting bolts to see if the engine can slide forward? Is the PTO shaft fully seated at the tranny end? Do you have a copy of the Powermax Repair Manual> John U

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jverhaag
Sorry for the delay in responding guys. The phone lines to the house was hit be lighting. We lost the phones, the data switch and the modem/wireless. Electronics make pretty "lights and noises" when that much current goes through them. It was ugly. It could have been much worse. The surge suppressors on the computers and entertainment system did their job. Back to the tractor. I had put to much grease on the shaft, forcing it out of position and I had the wrong bolts. Once I took your advice and actually measured the bolts they were short. I did not pull the engine. I slowly forced the grease out of the bearing by applying pressure and letting it sit over night. I would then increase the pressure and let it sit again. After three days it settled into position and everything dropped into proper alignment. Of course having the right bolts made a HUGE difference. B) I do have the repair manual but it is a little vague on the tricks to getting the belts in and out. I have it back together and running. I do need to make a clutch adjustment. I got it too tight and the clutch pedal doesn't work right now. I don't use the clutch but it "isn't right" and needs to be fixed. Type A personality. Most people would call it anal retentive :D Thanks for the help guys.

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