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Ready to drive 4041 off a cliff

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I went through the entire CCKB adjustment procedure. It ran like a clock, but smoked and burned a ton of oil and outrageous gas, as always. After 3 hours, loss of power, starts but only runs for 30 to 45 seconds. Since I can't get it to drive to the top of the bluff behind my house, I'll have to take the dang engine up in a wheelbarrow to throw if over. If I change out the CCKB to a Vanguard, what else will I want to do at the same time (such as drive belts, bushings, muffler etc). For those of you who have made the change, what were your costs above the price of the kit.

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A new engine is still plan, and soon. I'm still wondering what other fixes to budget for at the same time. Could it be spark plug wires. The PO put on fat ones that he whittled down to fit. It would keep the darn thing going until I can get a new engine delivered. I had two apple trees blow down and I really need to use my trailer NOW. I'm asking because the main moisture problem here in New Mexico is that there isn't any. Less than an inch since the snow melted. I haven't seen dew on the grass since last summer in Minnesota.

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Brian, Dave might be refering to oil condensation in the points box. When the plunger & bushing wear AND there's a lot of blowby the oil tends to coat the points & provide your symptoms. There's some things you can do.... check the plunger/bushing for wear. There is a seal available to help this problem. Check the oil breather. The balls in the cap can get gummed up as well as the copper brillo pad. there should be a screen in there too. I generally clean all w/degreaser, use a new seal (or replace the plunger or bushing. the plunger usually goes first), set the timing with a lite & good to go. sm01 JP

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That makes sense of what has been happening in the past. I've noticed that the seal on the points box is missing, and there is a lot of blow by. I'm going to get a friend to help me push/tow the tractor back to the shed, and pull the engine, before the 23 hp Vanguard arrives Friday.

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