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B-10 clutch


littlemarv

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I can't get my B-10 into gear when the engine is running. The input shaft on the trans won't stop turning. I have to stop the pulley with one hand and put it in gear with the other. I adjusted the clutch per the manual, it is better, but still not right. What is the plastic or fiber piece I'm pointing to in the picture? Is it supposed to spin freely on the pulley with the clutch depressed? It makes a loud noise intermittently when stopped with clutch depressed. I can replicate the noise if I take the belt off and turn the black piece by hand. I don't think I dare lubricate it with anything? Also, my manual says serial #50001 & up. I can't read the tag, so I don't know what I have. Are there some major differences in the serial number break?


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Hi, From your picture, the bracket (belt guide) to the right of your screwdriver is suppose to be just barely away from the belt when the clutch is out. (This is the half mood part) These belt guides are very important to have in place or you will have the problems like your having. The fiber disk is suppose to spin freely. There is also another one on the rotational shaft that you can not see. These were designed to eliminate the jerking grab of the belt when the clutch was released, and it looks like yours are in perfect order. Adjust that belt guide and I am sure your problems will go away. Dan
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It's all about the belt guards...there is one for the driven pulley as well, though the adjustment mentioned should do the trick. For heaven's sake, don't lube anything, or you'll end up with a clutch that slips ^
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As far as I know, the serial number break is between the early B10 and late B10. If you have an early, you will have a 9 hp model 23D engine, if yours is late, it will have a 10hp model 243431 I think all the clutch parts are the same between the 2 but not positive. They are all interchangable though. I think you have a late b10 ten horse, the early ones I believe had a yellow rear ;) You can lubricate the plastic part, but just A DROP to help the rattle. Belt guides are everything in stopping a spinning belt. They should be about 1/8th inch from a tight belt (clutch out) As said, there is the one in front, half moon shaped by your screwdriver, as well as 2 wire style behind the rear pulley. I'm guessing your tractor hasn't run in a while ?? You might also remove the belt, use a wire brush to get some of the rust off the inside faces of the V's on the pulleys. Even turn the belt around so it runs in the opposite direction. The rust on the pulleys and embedded in the belt will grab some and not let it slip.
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:D:D Someone will wonder... why turn the belt around?? :D:D Think of the tiny bits of rust in the belt as "teeth" By the directional spin of the pulleys, they will be embedded at an angle. The rust on the pulleys grab that and drive it deeper like traction. turning the belt around, they pulley spins along side them, wearing them smooth rather than driving them in. Hard to explain, but it works. ;)
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This topic is a good example of why I joined. One day and I've got the info I need. I will turn the belt around, polish my pulleys, and adjust the guards. I never would have guessed the guards are to stop the belt. I thought the belt should slip around the tranny pulley, but the belt and other pulleys should stop and just the BGB pulley should turn. Now I understand. Thanks everyone, it won't be long before my next question..... By the way, the engine is a 23D 012902 27743 so maybe the motor isn't original? Or the rear end, or the side plates? I may never know.
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Belt guide, or belt stops. Different name, same function. They're designed to keep the belt away from the pulley when the belt is loose. You should find anywhere from one, or up to at least three on any belt that has a "clutch" function. They will look like the one on your B-10 made out of flat stock, or made from 3/16" rod bent at a 90 on one end with a loop on the other for a bolt to go through.
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quote:
Originally posted by littlemarv
By the way, the engine is a 23D 012902 27743 so maybe the motor isn't original? Or the rear end, or the side plates? I may never know.
Something doesn't match, somewhere... 1. Based on your pictures in Show & Tell, showing the "Bumblebee" side covers, and the black transmission and side plates shown above -- it looks like you have a Late B-10, circa 1966 or 1967. 2. However, that 23D is the 9HP engine that would've been used in an Early B-10 or a MFR # 990314 9HP Landlord -- both are circa 1964. It's hard to tell from the pics, but if the engine sheet metal is yellow, it would've been from an Allis Early B-10 -- the Simplicity 9HP Landlord engine was painted black. My guess is the same as yours -- the engine has been swapped out sometime in its life, to the earlier 9HP model. That's more likely than swapping out tranny, side plates AND the Bumblebee side covers. One question that might "pin it down" is what type of steering gear does it have, right above the frame behind the engine? If it is completely round, made of cast iron, then you have an Early B-10. If it is pie-shaped, and not a complete circle, made of machined steel, then it is late, Bumblebee B-10... The 9HP tractors, both Allis Early B-10 and 990314 Landlord had the cast-iron, full-circle steering gear, and a different steering wheel shaft that matched it....
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I had to laugh out loud when I saw how well the belt stops after cleaning the transmission pulley and adjusting the guard on the BGB pulley. (only one on this belt). Kent, I will dig up a picture of the steering gear and post it later tonight. The first thing I do to a new tractor is take about 75 pictures of it and put them on a memory stick. Bet they never thought of anybody doing that when the built 'em back in the 60's.
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Hold that thought, the only thing I didn't get a good picture of is the steering gear. I will snap a picture and post it later.
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