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nelra2000

Simplicity 48 inch mower deck

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nelra2000
I keep losing the blades off my mower deck. Can't recall right now if it's a 7018H or 7118H, got the K361 overhead valve single 18 hp Kohler. I bought this used and keep losing the blades even on just my flat level lawn. I torque them to the 17 ft.lbs. as called for but they still keep unscrewing the center bolt that holds them on.

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GrincheyOne
The newer shafts in the mower spindles have spline shafts. You should have a comparable spline washer topped by a cupped (very slight) washer, followed by the bolt. A dab of removable Loc-Tite might also help. Stay tight! Wayne BTW WELCOME to the club!

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MysTiK
quote:
Originally posted by nelra2000
I keep losing the blades off my mower deck. Can't recall right now if it's a 7018H or 7118H, got the K361 overhead valve single 18 hp Kohler. I bought this used and keep losing the blades even on just my flat level lawn. I torque them to the 17 ft.lbs. as called for but they still keep unscrewing the center bolt that holds them on.
The Simplicity 7018H came with 18hp Kohler K361 Cast Iron Single. The equivalent Allis Chalmers tractor is a 718H. Old catalogue info HERE: http://www.simpletractors.com/simplicity/new_in_1978/16_%26_18_hp.htm I guess you have the Simplicity manual. You might also like this AC700-Series Manual - it's an excellent manual, and your tractor should be identical to the 718H. LINK TO MANUAL: http://bsintek.basco.com/BriggsDocumentDisplay/default.aspx?filename=heCyEN8coK3rE3CGh54bp796Dq The torque figure you specified at 17 should actually be 45-55 FOOT POUNDS. ! (according to AC700-series Manual). Install spline washer so it touches the blade, pushing the blade FLAT against the ~3" circular blade adaptor. Next, the spring washer, concave side up, convex side down, sits against the spline washer, then the capscrew installs finger tight - you can feel a good fit by wiggling the 2 washers as you finger tighten the capscrew, so you know the "blade sandwich" 8) is fitting snugly. THEN torque the sucker @ 45-55 FOOT POUNDS. The torque will slightly flatten the spring washer - so it cannot come undone. You really shouldn't need Loctite if it's torqued properly. I suggest you check all blades - 17 ft-lbs is incorrect. And make sure those 2 washers + blade are fitted properly before torquing. Blade falling off should never happen if installed properly - obviously that's a very dangerous situation. The manual I linked to has pix of this and instrux on page 44. (or page link 46) ALSO - check that rotating blades will not hit the sides of the deck, etc. NOTE - you will need a block of wood, like a 4x4, to stop the blades from spinning as you torque them. HERE's an IMAGE from the actual 700-Series MANUAL.


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MysTiK
You should also grease your spindles if you have grease zerx on the sides of each spindle housing, under the deck, above blades. Give them several shots, it offsets condensation which is very destructive. Stop if you see grease oozing out on upper part of deck, beneath the arbor belt covers. It's also a very good idea to clean beneath the covers once a year, to remove grass particles, and decomposing water-saturated sludge that can accumulate and promote rusted-out holes that will eat away the heavy steel of the deck - this is a common and major problem; affectionately known as "deck rot". After cleaning, a very light coat of oil might help - but avoid oil on belts! Periodic cleaning of the underside is a similar great idea. You can oil underneath also to prevent rust from grass clippings' water content. hope that helps. Welcome to the club. sm01

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nelra2000
Thanks alot guys. Apparently the previous owner had the blades on incorrectly, splined washer above the blades. And too, the diagragm shows 18 bolts at 17 ft lbs. I knew "that" wasn't right and found the 45-55. I've actually got 3, a 7012 with busted rod, and 7016 Briggs w/tiller and blade, and the 7018 w/ 48" blower and mower. All with hydros and 7018 w/ electric lift. Also an Allis 920 diesel I pull, a handmade 90XT series "big" tractor replica I pull w/ a Honda 500 V-twin bike engine. Have also had two B-112's, one close to "restoration" level with 48" mower and 42" blower and hydraulic lift. I'm no stranger to these wonderful old iron mules. Also a Wards 16 Briggs that got first place every time. Just sold. A '65 Sears Custom 6 w/ blower, mower, that gets used daily for 5 yrs and now a '62 Bolens deluxe with factory blade, electric start and lights. World's ugliest tractor made. Again, guys, thanks a lot for the info. I've been on this sight before and I'm sure, will be back again. Arlen

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rich_kildow
On the oiling note, they make Marvel Mystery Oil in a trigger sprayer (like windex...don't know what they are really called) and that stuff is amazing. I didn't think to much of it until I spray it on the inside of my trucks receiver tube last fall. After an entire Wisconsin winter, the inside of the tube still has a wet appearance...note a hint of rust in there. I'm going to start misting under the covers and the inside of the deck whenever it comes off the mower. I would imagine it would help protect the inner shell of a snowblower attachment while keeping the really wet stuff from sticking in the chute.

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MysTiK
I just use old black motor oil - have lots of that. 8) It also makes for good fire starter on green or wet leaves and branches- especially if you like a replica of the Olympic flame for about ten minutes. I'm surrounded by trees, fell trees for firewood, and sometimes got branches everywhere - it gets to be too much. Nice to sit by the fire pit and rest w a cold one. 8D But on the decks the idea is simple water repellant to resist rust. Best is to open it up and check how it's doing under there, and under the deck. Neither is a fun job; but peace of mind is nice.

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