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sliderxc

whats it worth

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sliderxc
I have a wonderboy reel mower thats slightly used it was in a shed that sprung a leak so there is some rust on a few pieces the wooden rollers are mostly gone it does turn by hand but it turns hard will need some tlc and it should be just fine all parts are there including wrench

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timflury
I paid $150 for this one, http://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=121902 your results may vary. I was told by the PO that there was a guy in Texas looking for this one, but he backed out.

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sliderxc
well tried to post pictures but cant keeps saying file to big even when I resized them mabey I could send them to someone and they could get them up. ok screw it if you want pics just shoot me a email thanks paul
[img]/club2/attach/BLT/DCP_1799sml.jpg[/img]

[img]/club2/attach/BLT/DCP_1801sml.jpg[/img]

[img]/club2/attach/BLT/DCP_1803sml.jpg[/img]

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timflury
I wouldn't list that as NOS. More in the words of "lightly used". There's a roller missing. I paid about $90.00 to have mine shipped to Wi. from the Boston area. Price it at a hundy and go from there. I FINALLY went out to my shed and snapped some photos. This is NOS. Allow me to explain. There is a wrench and a tag on the bar with setup instructions. There are clearly visible parting lines on the caster wheels. The wood rollers are not cracked and the light coat of paint is still in tact. The pins and clevise pins are free of scratches and shiny wear from being installed on a tractor. The belts have "Simplicity" printed on them with the factory part numbers. I painted the drive pulley which has never been installed on the mower because the wrench and tag have never been removed. Now, I have already "detracted from the value" by painting the pulley. My other conundrum is whether or not I actually want to set this up and install it on my WB. One part of me wants to see it run, and a collector friend of mine says to just display it next to the tractor at the shows. Your mower is very sellable. the buyer should be aware of what he needs to do to get the attachment into working order.










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MysTiK
I saw a lot of reels when I worked golf course maintenance. Greens mowers, either single reel walkers, or triplex 3-gang riders. Another specialized slow moving triplex did the collars and aprons around the greens. (longer mow height). And then large machines, also reels, mowed roughs and fairways - taller mow heights again. Rotary mowers were only used for the outer rough areas - where my ball usually got "found" if I was lucky. And of course, pretty well everything was "striped". Simp rotary mowers mimic that with the same type of rear roller on the decks. Reels were formally sharpened on a large heavy machine, designed for the purpose, maybe once a month or more. In between formal full sharpenings, they were "backlapped" - spun in reverse with backlap compound, mainly to remove burrs or minor blemishes in the edge of both bedknife and reel. I eventually applied simplified versions of these techniques to my own little push reel mower - an old one - by simply removing the wheels and drive gears and keys, and reversing them to make the reel spin backwards. Just apply backlap compound, aka "valve grind" compound, with a paint brush, and spin. Makes a racket until it wears away some metal and the compound itself. The blades are adjusted to slightly and carefully and evenly snug up to the bedknife, so it almost barely touches. The compound fills the gap, if any, and creates uniform "clearance" barely. Tweak the clearance if needed - I eventually stopped tweaking, and just let it wear itself in. It can be noisy at first; but eventually that stops, and the thing cuts well and lasts quite a while - on a dirty old push reel mower. As long as you don't hit anything like a rock, or curb. Most people hate push reels cos they don't know this, and don't know how to set them up. Mine is near effortless to push. But the first cut on a lawn might be difficult until the height is determined and the grass adjusts itself to the new technique. (literally). After that happens, the mowing experience is near effortless - but mostly people discard them before the magic happens. (the 'crown' area of the grass actually moves up/down in response to mowing height - this is what 'scalping' (too short) is about - it's the crown that get scalped). The backlap compound is oil based so it prevents rusting, or you can oil them, maybe spray lube, to do that also. Only the edge is fully exposed, due to slight wear and contact with grass. I used to try imitating a greens mower at a 1/2" mowing height, and that led to creating a really fun backyard croquet course, mowed daily, super smooth, fast, accurate roll like a real green, almost. Golf greens are about 1/8" tall - at a good course. The stuff on tv, pga tour, might even dip below the 1/8" mark - it's insane, demanding extreme precision - mow height is measured in millimeters. or 64th's. I don't know how it would be done on these reels; but that backlap thing is definitely in play. Knowing how to make the reels spin in reverse, motorized, would be fun. but the adjustments have to be done carefully - very sensitive stuff. I wonder if a manual would cover that. Incorrect adjusts can cause "coning" - a tapered reel. nasty. just some points of possible interest to some. sm01

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MysTiK
what's it worth - I think your price is a steal for anyone who wants such a reel. These seem very well made, and I think they are pretty rare. I'd be asking double, or just try pricing them on the market. The more serious golf course versions are very expensive - like start by multiplying by 10+. - big bucks for the ones that will tolerate daily demands and outrageous precision.

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