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mtoney

B1d build progress

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mtoney
Here are some pics of my progress building the B1d tractor. The engine is set in place and bolt holes marked to be drilled, drive shaft is hooked back up, yes there is quite a gap behind the fiber disc for now. I used grade 8 bolts with thick steel spacers, that will get shortened up 1 5/16th when I get the new flywheel for the stator charging system. I am looking to get an engine mounted fuel tank, goes on the pto side of the engine so front of the tractor and would fit under the hood. Front hood mount will have to be modified just a bit to clear the crank case cover. I will need to have a short muffler extension made, double flanged pipe about 2 inches long overall, or the factory mount cut and lengthened. Really need someone local that can weld to assist. If I move the fuel tank to the engine, then I can keep the air cleaner tucked under the hood. Mike [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/cadetpwr/AllisB1pics001.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/cadetpwr/AllisB1pics002-2.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/cadetpwr/AllisB1pics003-1.jpg[/IMG]

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mtoney
Petters do not pull in air that way like a normal air cooled gas. If you look in the bottom pic, there are intakes just behind the block casting for the flywheel housing. They little grills of them, that is where the air is pulled in to the squirl cage style blower that is behind the flywheel. I do plan to put a finer mesh over those to prevent grass from getting in there as easy. The green top cover is easily removed with two nuts to clean or work on the top end of the motor. These engines are rated at 10,000 hours between full overhauls and 20-40K isnt unheard of. I may have to rering and hone the bore as it had an easy life running just an alternator to charge batteries, so we suspect stuck rings and a glazed bore. But you do not have to pull the bottom end, once the head is off, the jug lifts off like a motorcycle engine, new rings, clean the grooves and hone the jug on the bench. We are going to try and clean it out thru working the engine mowing. Which was suggested by the Petter rep in the UK. He said a good hard work out will burn off the ring goo and reseat them to the bore on thier own. This is typical in a diesel that has sat for long perionds without use. Mike

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mtoney
The oil drain will get changed to drain toward one side when I get around to changing the oil. I want to get the engine running, its a non runner at the moment, before I change the oil. The injector had a bad nozzle and the injector pump was dirty from sitting. Waiting on those items to come back to me. It would try to start but the injector was just dumping raw diesel into the cylinder, so all I got was lots of smoke and a muffler full of diesel. I dont need the motor out to replace the injector and pump. The rounded housing with the bolt in the middle on the crankcase cover is the oil filter. Not quite sure what I am going to do with the grill upright as the crankcase face is beyond where the grill used to be. I have some ideas, but not on the "front burner" yet. Mike

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mtoney
Time for some updated pics and a progress report. I recieved the first of 2 packages from the UK last week, I got an engine mounted fuel tank with filtration, different self bleeding fuel system, new decals, drive shaft coupler, stub shaft that bolts onto the flywheel, crank start handle and differnt crank case cover, and a variable throttle system. I repainted the fuel tank, replaced a decal, mounted the stub shaft to the flyhweel, installed the drive shaft coupler which required shortening the stock drive shaft and machining the coupler to the right size as the shaft( 3/4 over the supplied 5/8ths dia bore). As she sits right now, the engine is bolted down, drive shaft all connected, exhaust extended to clear hood, I will have an extension set up to replace the 90' elbow for the air cleaner tomorrow so it will clear the hood. My second package from the UK should be here tomorrow, it has a brand new injector pump, injector, correct stub shaft for crank start(backup to electric start till I figure out a charging system) and new oil, air and spare fuel filter. Once I get the diesel started, I will unbolt the engine, prop it up and change that oil drain so it drains to the right side instead of fouling the axle like it does now. I am affraid the grill is going to be a custom affair due to the fuel tank, crank start and need to access the forward facing oil filter housing. I am thinking I will make the hood a bolt on bolt off affair like the B10's but I plan to put fuel fill access in the top of the hood and may route the exhaust that way in the future. If all works like I am thinking it will, the only time the hood will come off is to replace the battery or fix issues. Enjoy the pics! Mike [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/cadetpwr/allispics001.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/cadetpwr/allispics002.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/cadetpwr/allispics004.jpg[/IMG] [IMG]http://i83.photobucket.com/albums/j285/cadetpwr/allispics003.jpg[/IMG]

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mtoney
I am hunting for a small alternator that runs clockwise. You can see the belt pulley cast into that cover over the flywheel, I have the space where the fuel tank used to be that I can mount or I can side sling it on the lift handle side of the tractor. Mike

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mtoney
Yes but the cooling fan on the Motorola alternator that came with the diesel(the package was off an old blinking arrow trailer for road construction zones) is, one to large over all, and the cooling fan is turning backwards from the way it was originaly. Not sure if that makes a huge differance? Can that fan pull air instead of pushing it thru the windings or vise versa? Mike

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mtoney
It is ALIVE!!!! Finaly got the new injector in the morning mail today. After some teething issues from sitting unrun for so many years, she settled down into a nice idle, ran her for 30min at 1/2 power with the mower deck engaged, shut it down, changed oil and filter, then fired up back up for a test drive. I need to tinker with the injection timing, doesnt like running at anything above 3/4 throttle, acts like the timing is to retarded. Now I need outside assistance to fabricate a new frame and grill to support the hood. Thinking of having the hood bolt on like the later B series, with an access hole in the hood to refuel. Then the hood doesnt need to come off except to work on the engine. I might even plumb the exhaust up thru the hood instead of sticking out the side. Anybody near by that can weld and fabricate? Mike

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