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Question about durability of tiller's


jlasater

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Did some tilling with the rear 36" tiller on my 716H tonight and the tiller hopped around pretty good while working the ground. How much pounding is too much for the tiller and bevel box on the tractor? It seemed to work fine, but I just don't want to beat my equipment to death.[A href='http://www.wheatfarm.com']http://www.wheatfarm.com[/a]
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Using a tiller is new to me, so I'm interested in reading the responses from experienced users too. Having a "feel" for machinery, I don’t like any machine that “hops” around unless it is designed to do so. Therefore, when tilling virgin soil I made several passes, at increasing depths, at very slow ground speed. There was no “hopping” using that procedure. I think it would be quicker breaking virgin soil with a plow before using the tiller.
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If its as dry out there as it is here its like tilling a concrete slab. I tried to do a little tilling two weeks ago and it felt like the whole pile of equipment was going to beat itself apart. I finally quit. Its not near as bad in soil with some moisture in it. As far as durability goes, I've been doing gardens in all types of ground for people for about 8 years now and havn't wrecked a tiller yet. And I have tilled alot of Bricks, chunks of Iron, concrete, wire(the worst), you name it. The most damage done thus far was when a brick got stuck in the tines and stopped the tiller and smoked the belt. Couldn't see where it hurt anything else. Does make one wonder though.
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I'm not sure why it would hop around that much? Do you have a solid lift shaft or a cable? Also, on my tiller it had several angle settings to set how "agressive" the tiller handled. Did you have a front counter weight...that helps as well. (sometimes I used my blade locked in the full up position) Making several passes in difficult soil or sod is a good idea. If it starts to buck too much raising the tiller a bit usually helps. Even with all that I used ag tires, rear weights and a front counter weight and it really helped. I could bust sod and 1" tree roots without much problem. The more weight the smoother the till. All this was on a 7hp Simplicity 725 so your big ole 716 should do fine with more weight. Good luck..Ken W
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Sam, you just brought up a big plus of belt drive tillers, a slipping point. Due to rocks around here quite often the size of a qt can I run my belts a bit loose so they slip quick, they take a lot of smokin and are cheap and easy compared to parts inside..MPH
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The 716H and 7016's use a cable lift system, so there is no positive down pressure on implements, other than from their own weight. I do need to add some front weight as steering in the soft stuff when using the tiller was almost impossible.[A href='http://www.wheatfarm.com']http://www.wheatfarm.com[/a]
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agree with alote said above on my 3012 - i have added front counter weights to stop the 'bounce' of the tiller -have also added 10kg of evenly distributed weight to the tiller it self to make it weigh a bit more - seems to stop the bounce also i pass several times on virgin ground to minimise the depth of 1 pass so tiller does not have to work as hard D
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agree with alot said above on my 3012 - i have added front counter weights to stop the 'bounce' of the tiller -have also added 10kg of evenly distributed weight to the tiller it self to make it weigh a bit more - seems to stop the bounce also i pass several times on virgin ground to minimise the depth of 1 pass so tiller does not have to work as hard D
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i have a allis chalmers b-10 i till 1 acre garden all year long without any trouble.for soil that is hard or dry you really need to use a plow first, it makes it alot easier on your tractor and tiller. i have two for sale, one is used about a 8 inch plow $35 plus shipping, the other is brand new never been in the dirt 10 inch binley hardy$135 plus shipping, they are $262 at lowes.barry wells dumas@foothills.net
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