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dirtsaver

Synthetic oils - - Any opinions??

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dirtsaver

I did a search for past posts but only found two and not much in them.

I changed the oil in the 17GTH a few days ago and since it's time for "winter" oil I thought why not try synthetic. Enter Castrol Syntec 10w30. I was amazed at how easy it started at 25* without preheating the engine with the torpedo heater. I know a lot of folks swear by synthetic in their cars and trucks but what about our tractors?

Has anyone else gone synthetic? If so,what's you opinion after running it a while. Any problems or adverse effects on the tractor?

Thanks!

Larry

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MPH

Been running mob-1 in my B-112 since I got it going. Be 4 years in the spring. Engine has not been opened up since I cut the tractor outta the willow bushs that had grown up around it, had some compresson, filed point, new plug, cleaned carb up, replaced holely gass tank and been working it since. I also use AMS Oil syn gear lube thoughout. If It pours in the cold, I like it.

MPH

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Kent

I've been running Mobil 1 in my rebuilt 16HP after the first, 8 HR oil change. I run 5W30 in the winter and 10W40 in the summer. It does seem to start easier in the winter.

Don't know if it really means anything, but I've noticed the synthetic turns brown/black MUCH slower than regular oil. I usually takes more than 15 hrs on an oil change before you can easily read the oil level, it's so clear and clean... seems when it looks brown, it's time for a change.

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Roy

I'm sold on Mobile 1 motor oil & gear lube. Run it in all my cars & tractor engines. Haven't switched the tractor transmissions yet but may do so when it is time to change them. Mobile 1 runs cooler, smoother, slicker, easier, etc. Good stuff!!8O)

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dirtsaver

Thanks guys!

I'm glad to know I'm on the right track. The easier cold starts have me sold if nothing else. Thanks for the heads-up on the color change thing Kent. Do you guys still change the oil per the manufacturers spec or let it go longer like the cars do? Now I'm wondering about switching the hydro fluid and BGB to Syntec also.

Larry

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mwells

I run Ams oil in all my tractors. My Grandpa bought a zero turn Simplicity 7 years ago and puts about 75 hours on it a year and its had Ams oil 10w 30 in it all its life and doesn't use a drop of oil all. He only changes it once a year and it runs great!! I think syntetic oil is great!

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Kent

I change mine twice a year, in the spring and just before winter. That's usually 25-30 hours or so... depending on how much snow we get. Regardless of the hours, I change it twice a year, anyway....

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mowerman1193

I also been using synthetic in my tractors this year...seen to run and start better...I never go by any type of clock or odometer for oil changes...I change it just when its starting to turn a darker color as thats when its getting dirty...Synthetic oil doen't break down like dino oil so thats not an issue..I know some people that go right by the book with there cars/trucks or what ever it might be...They recommend every 3000 miles but there oil is black at 2000 miles but they run it anyway untill the 3000 mile....to me they are just shortening the life of the motor that way...Some need it sooner than others and I feel there is no clock type device to tell you accuratly when it needs done other than look for the color change...and try to do it before it gets too dark...

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papamerkle

I race Off Road Radio Control Stadium Trucks (Electic Stock Motor). This class is very restrictive on any modifications you can do to a motor. All motors in this class have bronze bushings. Max RPM on a mineral base oil is 20,000 rpm on my R&D motor. The only change I made was to clean motor and use a synthetic oil on the bushings. Max RPM after 3 dyno pulls is 20,700 RPM:D;)^. Heat is always a factor when racing. I have burn up several armatures/motors do to much gear. Motor temps average 140 degrees after a single race. The only way I can reduce heat is less gearing. With synthetic oil I am able to go up 2 teeth on my gearing and still have less motor/battery heat.

My wife calls my RC Truck a toy. I got great results with my toy truck.8D Next is My Suburban.

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ambler

I've been putting in 1 qt 10-30 and 1 qt 5-30 as winter oil. Brigss manuals also avocate 10-30 synthetics year round. Kohler is silent. six pack odf mobil 1 is $23-24 at Sam's club. Is there a synthetic hydro to take place of simplicity hydro? In my 7100 simp hydro is called for in BGB and in sundstram.

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DaleC

Larry, I barely got the Big Ten started Sunday with the Straight 30 wt. still in it. I let it run about 30 minutes and drained the oil. I put in Rotella-T 5w-40 purchased at Wally World. The start up is amazing. I used the tractor about two hours pushing snow and pulling my little girl on her sled around the farm. I checked the oil when I put the tractor in the Machery shed and I was shocked to see that I had used little to no oil! This is the same engine that had been using between 4 oz to 12 oz per tank of gas, depending how hard I was working the engine. I am looking forward to summer to see how this oil will perform in the High heat and the high RPM of mowing.

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roma3112

Guys

Would you believe I got up this AM to create a post asking about this very same topic. Although I have switched over to Synth in both my tractors (last season) My question was more one of vescosity, I had been using castrol-Synth 10/30 year round. Well I was at the local whosale club last night with my wife and they seemed to have a pretty good deal on Mobile-1 so I picked up the 5w/30 figured it would be a lil easier on the cold starts esp on the 3112h with the SG.

Funny story, as I was getting the oil into the carrage my wife goes "wow $23 but didnt you just get yout truck oil changed like 2 weeks ago" My reply was yeah this is for my tractors!! i use the cheaper stuff in the truck LOL

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MPH

Picked up some 30w Ams Oil that's claimed to pour down to 38 below. Hasn't been that cold so I haven't added it to my test table yet. Guess I should anyway since most of you guys seldom deal with below zero anyhow.

MPH

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Deadeye

I recently changed over to Wal-Mart syn. 10w-30 and was amazed at how easy the engine turned over when cold. It was about 20 degrees the other day when I wanted to haul a load of wood and the tractor spun over fast. Time will tell if durability is good, I hope so!

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Allis_B12

I've got a question. Pennzoil 5W-30 mineral oil keeps my engine from spinning easily at 10 degrees, so I'm planning on getting Mobil 1 for my tractor's next oil change. Would 0W-30 be a good grade to try, or should I stick to 5W-30?

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UCD

I am useing Mobil 1 0w-40 in my 7790 lombardini air cooled diesel and it starts better at -20°. In the HB-116 and HB-212 I am using Mobil 1 5w-30. At -20° the HB-212 started on second turn with out using the choke and the HB-116 started on second turn with choke.

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BobT

I've been using Delvac 1 5W-40 in my 416H Kohler engine for about 10 years. A year ago I switched to Mobil 1 ATF (Dextron compatible) for the Vickers hydro and Valvoline synthetic blend gear lube for the bevel gears and transaxle. After changing the transmission and transaxle fluids I noticed a huge improvment in my ability to back up my driveway (uphill) in the winter. Really helps when blowing snow.

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patrician12

I absolutely believe in synthetic Mobil 1 oil for winter use in air cooled engines.In the summer I like another Mobil product,Delvac.It is called "the million mile oil".I don't like synthectic oil in automobile engines and try to discourage customers from using it for 3 reasons.First it increases intervals that the automobile is looked at from 3,000 to 6.000 miles.In this period a small problem can generate into a big problem.Secondly,it has been shown in many engines that premature hydraulic lifter wear takes place.Finally,little oil drips become massive oil drips because of its viscosity.I will tell someone to use it if they are going North and I know the temperature will be near zero.It's cold weather performance can't be disputed!

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