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ATTN: TRACTOR PULLERS


COYOTE10663

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I HAVE FOUND A BARGAN ON AN OLD ALLIS 716 HYDRO. WE'VE PULLED GOOD IN THE TEST & TUNE WITH THE 10HP B-210 A/C, BUT I WAS WANDERING HOW A HYDRO-DRIVE WOULD PULL. SOME SAID IT WOULD FOAM, HOWEVER, THEAY RUN ON AUTO TRANS FLUID, SO THAT DOES NOT MAKE SENCE TO ME. HAS ANNYONE HAD ANNY EXPERIANCE IN TRYING TO PULL WITH A HYDRO? I DONT WANT TO MAKE A COSTLY MISTAKE.
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We have pulling ACs for 3 years now with 4 different clubs. I have seen hydros work OK against other off-the-lawn tractors but they have fallen very short in the stock classes. The hydro just absorbs too much hp. The problem with hydros are they are not only variable speed but also variable torque. (thats why you can inch up a hill with a hydro without spinning the tires). For pulling you need all the torque possible applied to the rear tires. The hydro will work if you have enough power to hold it full speed for the full pull. So the only way you can adjust for track and sled is to change tire diameters (not practical). If you want a very good puller put that 16hp Kohler (overhauled) in your B210 or swap tansaxles so you have a 716 with a 3-speed and a B210 hydro for mowing. I have used the vari-drive very successfully. But if yours is in bad shape I recommend to just convert it to straight 3-speed and change driven pulleys for the conditions. Our 12hp tractor has the vari-drive and the other (917 w/ a 20hp twin) I use straight pulleys. I have from a 5" to a 8" driven pulleys that I change for the conditions. I hope I helped some, but bottom line is I wouldn't mess with the hydro for pulling. Good Luck! Mike S.
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I agree with Mike S. and swap the two rearends. I have watched several hydros "burn up". The hydro will get too hot and just quit working at some point. The tractors with hydros needed 2 to 4 horsepower more just to keep up with a geardrive tractor. I haven't pulled in about 6 years but the tractor I had was a 718-6speed. This tractor has proved to be very reliable. It is still pulling today and it has never broke the rearend, and only once has the differential broke. After this happened, the new gears were put into our oven at 250-300 degrees for about 2 hours. The oven was then turned down 50 degrees every 30 minutes(DO NOT REMOVE THE GEARS) untill the oven was cool. The purpose for this is to take the brittleness out of the gears. They will wear slightly faster but will not break as easy. I felt this is a good tradeoff because after all, how often does a differntial WEAR out the gears. This Will make your house smell if you do it, so what I did was purchase from a garage sale a "toaster oven" for any baking needs in the workshop. It also works good baking the paint on bolts & nuts(150_200 degrees). Good luck & happy pulling!!! PeppyDan
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In our experience the Vickers cast iron hydro works fine with the 301 motor,in stock classes,,it never runs out of power,, we're always consistentaly 4th to 6th out of like 30 some competitors,,sometimes even win! HOWEVER the 3 spd hooked up to an 18 magnum will snap axle tubes as the 3 spd's tube is longer allowing more flex in heavier 1,200lb. and up classes,,gonna fabricate a live axle for it over thw winter,,get rid of diff,,it's just a dead weight we don't need on an already weak system,,
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I forgot to mention NOT to bake the springs,only the gears. It's been a couple of years since I have had a diff. apart. Thanks Mike for the other info. PeppyDan
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Dave, the clubs over here in Wis. and Minn. do not allow solid axles or locked differentials (in all classes including the mini-rods). It could give you a wild ride if your are doing some air time (wheelies). Good Luck! Mike S.
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Thanks PeppyDan for the input on the differential gears, they are brittle. We have also found that taking out the springs in the diff. and putting in the spacers (older style diff.) is much more durable, but leave in the wear plates as this compresses everything together better. Second, take out the washers between the axle gear and the hub gear, this will prevent broken teeth on the hub or axle gear. Last I put a 1-3/4" muffler clamp on the axle between the zerk fitting and the transaxle housing - this will prevent a gear case blow out if you break an axle tube. Good Luck! Mike S.
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