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B-112 Mower Belt update


kfran

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Well I went through another belt. I paid closer attention this time and realized that the belt is twisting in the pulley on the deck causing it to run on its backside. Any ideas about why this would happen. Thanks.
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One check -- Are you pulling the spring-loaded lever back up to put spring tension on the PTO? It's down underneath the left rear axle, near the brake drum. Without proper tension, the belt will turn over.
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Hi Kent. The tension lever is set to the proper position. The problem seems to occur when mowing relatively tall grass. IT's been fine mowing my regular lawn, but I havea field I am clearing where the grass is about 4-6" high. The tractor isn't bogging down at all, but the belt ends up turning over. Thanks.
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My 3112 did this and I changed the Idler pully and have not had a problem since. My engine did not bog down either shure would smoke that belt Turned over before burnt off. Idlers are a bit expensive mine was riveted together drilled out rivets (see previous post about tools) changed bearing 4 or 5 bucks put screws and nuts in place of rivets. Have done this with my Papaw's tractor also. Scott
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Scott got me thinking -- are we talking about the belt that goes from the center PTO to the deck, or the one that drives the 3 blades on the deck. I was talking about the first belt, and I think Scott is talking about the second belt....
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Are you using a Simplicity belt? While green (L&G) Gates belts are certainly better than automotive belts, they do NOT compare to Simplicity belts in my opinion. Simplicity "engineered" their belts to the specific use, and they seem to last much longer for me. They design them so that they can twist and turn or run idlers on the backside, if that is what the application calls for.... If it is turning over on the mower deck and not the PTO, you MIGHT try drilling a hole in the deck shell or cover and adding a belt stop up close to the pulley on the front side of the deck, away from where it is coming to and from the PTO. Set the belt stop to provide about 1/16" clearance or so, so the belt doesn't rub it continually. It may help keep the belt in the pulley so it can't turn over. I've made belt stops using heavy gauge wire (clothsline) or even better, small rod stock from the hardware store... Just a thought, but I've found that you cannot keep belts on a snowblower without two belt stops on it (one on each side) -- it will sling the belt every time you disengage otherwise .... Look down on your tractor near the center PTO drive belt, and you'll see examples of these belt stops. They're just spring-steel wire shaped into a "finger" that helps direct the back of the belt, usually when you disengage the idler clutch pulley.
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I am talking about the cross drive belt from pto to center spindle on deck. The belt on the blades is in poor shape. I guess the rotation of the pulleys just caused the center pulley to stop and smoke the cross belt. I would say if the belt out of the bevel gearbox is smoking the shaft is binding. Or maybe I'm confused too. Scott Won't be the first time.
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We're talking about the same belt, Scott. I would never have guessed that a bad idler inside the deck covers would destroy the drive belt from the PTO to the deck... Live and learn! Kent
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First, to clarify, i'm referring to the belt that runs from the pto to the mower deck pulley. The first belt I bought was a Simplicity. It lasted 2 days. Then I bought a Gates heavy duty, which lasted about the same. As a last resort I bought a regullar automotive belt. Funny thing, the $4.00 belt has lasted the longest. It's on its last leg though. I'm done with the heavy mowing, so I'll see how it goes from now on. Thanks for all the info guys.
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