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716H Paint


arnoldir

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Chad, Tim is absolutley right about all the prep work and block sanding. I have used clear coat finishes on auto restorations but I feel it may be a little overkill on tractors, besides it's very expensive. Here is my alternative. If you have rust you will need to sandblast or sand very throughly. I use Rust-Oleum "Rusty Metal" primer after preparing the surface. It's inexpensive and it does a great job of minimizing rust blisters over time. I have had the best results using Tractor Supply Enamel. It is made by BPS and it is truely high quality paint. I like my "AllisChalmers Orange" a little on the red side so I tint it with Red such as Ford Red or IH Red. I also highly reccomend putting hardner in the paint. I bought a 8 oz jar at Quality Farm and have used it on several jobs. Thin the paint somewhat with Mineral Spirits to make it spray smoothly. Take your time using thin coats and allow 15 or twenty minutes between them to allow the thinner to evaporate. This will let the paint build up and minimize runs. Make sure your final coat looks good and wet. By using hardner the paint will dry overnight if the temp is warm and the humidity low. If you don't like it the first time block sand it after it dries, using 220 wet or dry, and shoot it again taking advantage of what you learned the first time. The material for doing it this way will only cost about $25.00 and you will have a good looking durable finish.
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Tim, You didn't state whether you were planning on using spray cans or professional equipment. If you're going to use professional equipment, I agree with Byam. Anything other than straight enamel is overkill on a working tractor. The below link is to a worthwhile paint forum.[A href='http://www.autorestorer.com/q_boards/body/index.cgi']http://www.autorestorer.com/q_boards/body/index.cgi[/a]
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One tip I can give is to use a mini sprayer on the smaller parts and parts you have to spray inside of like wheels. It is easier to control and angle around and you are less likely to create runs or sags in tight areas. It also makes less overspray. I bought a mini spray outfit made by the Badger Airbrush Co.
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I am getting ready to start back into my 716H restoration project with my boy and need to know what color orange paint should I use on the 716H, and where is the best place to get the paint. Any painting tips would be welcome as well.
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