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GrincheyOne

2110 Engine upgrade - Hydro-lift

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GrincheyOne

Started aout two weeks ago with the exceptional Spring weather. The tasks at hand are- Replace original, and still good 10HP engine, extremely mis-treated by the field critters. Had to come out to clean anyway.- Clean and repaint engine, purchased from RayS.- Install 14HP engine.- clean and re-paint frame, and tin.- Clean and re-paint Hydro-lift from a B210- Install Hydro-lift.- get tunnel cover welded as well as extranious holes in tower closed. not allowed to arc/MIG weld with pacemaker.- re-paint install tunnel cover, and tower. - Clean, re-paint S/G from Big-Ten.- install new LED tail lights.- re-wire with new (marine grade)key ignition, add solenoid switch.- rewire work light into cabling job.- reform and paint new grill insert.- aquire and install new decals.The question comes up - Should I retittle it a 2114 or call it a 2110/14?Here is the frame as of 6:30 PM today.WayneI'll add more project pictures as I get further along.

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GrincheyOne

You bet Ken!Here is someting I found yesterday, that is not on the list, but can't be ignored. This is a view from the BGB.

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I'm sure you can still recognize the rear flex joint.I got to see how they look on the Big Ten (Donor).Wayne

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GrincheyOne

The S/G from the "Donor" is repainted, and today I worked on the rusty hardware to support it (brushed down and a liberal coat of "Rust Reformer") Tomorrow a coat of finish Black. That will take care of the S/G.

Wayne

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GrincheyOne

Started to remove the drive shaft and found the top two bolts to the BGB were loose ]While here may as well tighten the bottom 2 bolts. The first (right hand went OK, then the left hand bolt sheared.

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I didn't plan to split the frame, but here it goes. Need to get access to the sheared remains. Zippovarga already has told me the plastic plug is a vent on the BGB, and suggested that I make sure it is clear using an inflation needle. And when replacing the bolts use a thread sealer to repel moisture in the future, and help to prevent rusting of the bolts. Also grade 5 bolts are recommended to prevent damage to the cast iron threads in the BGB.

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GrincheyOne

Ray, Zippo already commented on the presence of fluid. As I replied to him, That is not fluid from the BGB but the result of an over enthusiastic use of PB. I'll likely use, at least a 1/2 case of that stuff on this project. Much of the hardware on this machine has not been touched since it was in Port Washington. Thanks for the heads up. anyway! Who thought I would be splitting the frame on this job!?!

Today I finally got the bolt off the shift rod. So the tower is fully stripped down. Likely, It'll go to the welding shop next Saturday. Plenty of rust and decal removal to perform, until then.

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GrincheyOne

Well fellow inmates Today was the day to split! By that I mean separate the frame from the BGB. The simple answer is remove the bolts and have at it. BUT nothing is simple. Before removal of the bolts would do any good, you have to remove the rear drive shaft flange, which is cast iron. So, extreme care is called for. First step as always I reach for the PB. Everything that has to move is given a liberal coat. There is that setscrew to be loosened/removed from the flange, this is a standard 3/16 hex setscrew. Wouldn't you know it was the one missing in my case of hex wrenches. Two cups of tea later, and I found the one I needed. Hooked that up to a 1/4" socket wrench, and by that time the PB and the heat from the Bernzamatic combined with the mini brush fire in the remaining "critter clutter" at the bottom of the frame, worked it's magic. Time to reach for the gear puller, the flange casting has rounded edges that are of no good to get a grip with the puller. Now it's time for good old Polish ingenuity to kick in. Apply a minimum of massage with the 2-1/2# maul on the end of the BGB shaft (needed to center punch for the puller, anyway). Then using the cap screws that held the drive shaft on and some hard metal shims between the flange screws and the rear frame bulkhead, begin to ease the flange off the shaft.After about 3/8" of movement, reach for the puller again. Now there is room for the puller arms, but before I began I enlarged that center punched divot with a twist drill for the puller screw to ride in. Apply the 5/8" socket to the puller screw, and slowly the flangebegins to leave the BGB shaft.

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p><p> Now I can remove the 3 intact cap screws from between the frame and BGB, a couple of minutes later and thump! IT

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NOW the Landlord has a "split personality". The borrowed power washer should be here on Thursday. I had not planned to do any serious work on the under carriage, but that is now subject to change. I think the foot rests from the Big Ten are going to be transplanted to the 2110, after some painting to hide their lineage. here are the two hulks...Just enough time to clean up before dark sets in!

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GrincheyOne

Not much progress, still waiting o n the pressure washer loan, I'm impatient enough to go out and buy one tomorrow! Missed a couple good days of "Scrubbie-Dubb". Filled in doing some shopping at the "Big Ten".Here is the ID tag from the Donor Big-Ten....

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. I found this old Chevy truck grill, under a tarp near the Donor. I'm thinking a good fit (with modification) as a brush guard over the new 2110 grill. "cut to fit, paint to match" I should get 3 good pieces out of this!

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, NO the tree is not horizontal!

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TomMaryland

Nice pics! Is your grill shot? I found some stainless mesh down at my local hardware store that matched perfectly for it. Also, I bet McMaster has a match for it too.

That grill would look pretty cool, though!

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GrincheyOne

I do have a smaller 4212LTG w/ 36' deck, and 42" dozer blade. It is

still not running smooth, after a trasplant of a new carb. It is patiently waiting for me to install the electric lift, that I bought last year.C

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GrincheyOne

Well at least the Voltage Regulator is ready to go back into the 2110/14. I was pleased with the results, but the original paint was very difficult to take down to bare metal...

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I also lucked out that the underside (exterior) looked almost new.

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Today I worked a little on the drive shaft, and engine shroud.

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GrincheyOne

Murphy must like it here in SE PA! I had to go back and clean up my other (spare) upper S/G bracket. Once the final coat was on the original, all the pitting became very evident. The spare bracket is now in it's second coat of primer. The weather improved so I went out back to remove the sheared 7/16" sheared bolt in the BGB. "Murph" hung around to assure that the extraction went South!, leaving me with two cracks in the casting!

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Really need to rethink this one, I'll go back to the main engine shroud, while I ponder a solution to the BGB issue. Specially now that we are facing 4 straight days of rain, at least I got the first grass cut of the season in today.

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huffy

Wayne:

I should make clear that the Wal Mart cleaner in and of itself doesn't really work that much better than Gunk engine degreaser or some other brands (though it does work at least as good). I just use it because Gunk and the other brands are going for nearly $6 a can at the stores near me, and they definitely are not worth 3x as much as the Wal Mart stuff.

The best way that I found to get tough, caked on grease off is to let that stuff sit as long as I can, then pressure wash if possible. When I can't use the pressure washer, again let the stuff sit and loosen up the grease as much as possible and then scrub the part down with a good, stiff bristled brush and hot water. I keep a pot of water nice and hot on an old Coleman stove in my garage when I'm trying to degrease stuff. That heat really makes a huge difference.

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GrincheyOne

Thanks Chris,I thought I would fill in today as promised with a shot of the 14HP engine shroud in process. We have had over an inch of rain, overnight,and looking forward (?) to another 3 days of this. It's even kinda cool and damp in the garage for these old bones to spend any appreciable time to work on cleaning the "tin".I have yet to test the Chicago-Pneumatic Spot Blaster from Harbor Freight. Gotta wait for dry weather! I mentioned, I was working on the dinged engine shroud cover. Here is the status as of this evening!

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I am using shaker cans for the whole project.; the shroud above has one coat of the Rust Reformer. The original engine color is showing through the sanding ("Butt Ugly Blue-Green").These are all "Rust-Olium", mostly from Wal-Mart (availability and price), some from ACE and Lowes (more pricey)#249322 "Self etching Primer", Gray - first coat light primer.#256786 "Filler Primer Gray" - for all those pesky pitted areas.#248932 "Gloss Black" engine paint.#248947 "Gloss Red-Orange" engine paint , I tested this on my 46" blade (excellent match), replaced the Dupli-Color at Auto Zone!Plus some miscellaneous metallics for accent, Air Cleaner Cover, carb, etc.My choice for white is (only carried,(locally by TSC) VALSPAR "Tractor & Implement Gloss" #5339-15 IH-White. I tested this on 6/16 and found it is more of a french vanilla, than a true white. If this is supposed to be an "implement white' it must be immediately after the manure is spread! Tonight I followed Zippo's suggestion and ordered 4 shaker cans of Rural Kings "Majic" enamel International White, I had to order it online, because Rural Kings has no Dealers in Pennsylvania. 4 cans were all Rural Kings had in stock tonight.($5.95 / can, and 10.99 to ship UPS ground), and I did not want to deal with back-ordering the additional 2 cans.I also ran across a Krylon #52411 "Pumpkin Orange Gloss" which is an extremely close match to the orange on the newer 4000 series machines.Have a Great week Folks!

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GLPointon

Steve I got mine from Pep Boys auto parts...only about $20

quote:Originally posted by Steve72

Perry---where did you get that harmonic puller??


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