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Pics of 2 styles of carb winterizing heat shields


Kent

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Kent, a quick question... I'm working on a template to make a copy of this model for my 725. Does the blue "canister" actually enclose the muffler such that the exhaust exits behind the shield? It is part of the shield, right? Thanks, Galen
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That's the original-style coffee can muffler, and the exhaust actually comes out of the front of the muffler, angled down about 45 degrees from horizontal, at the end of the muffler. This shield goes far enough back on the muffler that it doesn't obstruct the outlet for the exhaust. BTW, these original-style mufflers are made by Nelson, and still available through Simplicity dealers for around $40. I like the sound MUCH better than through the cannister-type aftermarket mufflers that exit the exhaust through the end. These original-style are supposed to be quieter -- they're still not quiet -- but they noticeably change the tone of the noise to a lower, more mellow sound...
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I just posted pictures of two styles of winterizer heat shields that were used on the old Briggs singles. All the pictures are in the original thread, linked below, so that a search/filter will find it easier in the future. Here's a picture of the one style...[A href='http://www.simpletractors.com/clubhouse/ShowMessage.asp?MsgID=5237&mode=short&startwith=0'][img src='http://www.simpletractors.com/transfer/images/new_shield_installed.jpg'][/a]
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I think they sound a lot better too. I just got one from a SimpletrACtor sponsor: Sandy Lake as "used-excellent" for about half the cost of new. If I hadn't known it was used, I'd have taken it for new. John(ri)
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The picture I sent to MPH actually took the air that normally came out the front grill and turned it around to the carburetor. It looked Simple and most of the engine heat ended up on the working parts of the carburetor. Don't go nuts but my Cub Cadets have the engines completely enclosed on all sides and never ice up. It is impossible to ice them up and they are quiet. Remember guys, I really love my Simplicity tractor and my Homelite tractors. My 700 looks better to me every time I look it over. It just LOOKS like a real tractor to me and makes me feel good about owning it. Woody
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Kent, could'nt help noticing the little inline fuel shut-off in exactly the same place ole Stinky wears hers. It's the only positive leak protection going. Dick
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Dick, I agree on the inline shutoff valves. Every Briggs carb I have drips dry unless you put one of these on them.... Makes a mess on the floor, and makes the engine hard to start. One of the first things I always do is put in a clear inline fuel filter so I can see the gas, and a shutoff valve. Kent
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I installed one of those fuel shutoffs and a filter this year on my HB212 also. After I came out one day to use the tractor and the fuel tank (which I left full) was bone dry and my floor of my shed was wet, I figured that I needed to do something. The funny part was that when I went to the local auto parts store to get a fuel shutoff, the parts guy tried to tell me that I needed a metal fuel shutoff setup because the gas would eat a plastic shutoff and cause a fire hazard. The setup he tried to sell me was about $50 worth of brass. I told him "No thanks" and my neighbor got me a fuel shutoff just like Kent's from a lawnmower supply place he uses for about $5! It has worked fine for me and no more wet floor and empty tank. Clayton
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Icing carb? I also use (besides the carb heating sheild) a heavy canvas type material and wrap it around the left side of the engine covering the govenor linkages. This will keep everything working fine when blowing snow. Caution make sure that this covering is away from the exhaust pipe and muffler! Mike S.
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My B1 Model 19 carb doesn't drip dry. Has worked fine for years. But, I do close the shutoff valve on the sediment bowl below the gas tank. Roy
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Thanks Kent, now I see why you said a coffee can could be used. Might have to try one of those mufflers, iy be helpful if the exhaut wasn't blowing snow off the bank. Thanks to all for all the response on this issue..MPH
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Roy, tank mounted shut off is probably the best not to mention original way to stop leaking. I just havent bumped into one with the little petcock in working order. Dick
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New sediment bowls with shutoff valves are readily available. I think the cost is around $5 or $6. I've never had a problem with the shutoff valve not working. The packing (leather?) for the valve stem will dry out and leak if the fuel system is left dry for a long time.
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Roy, age is the mostlikely trouble with mine, had to cut the willow bushes down to recue the pile my B112 came from..MPH
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Both my 725 and 112 had the sediment bowl with working shut off. Seems the metal shutoffs, including a bass one on my 16hp gilson "freeze" in off positon and I need pliers to crack them lose. Guess the gas dries out in them or something. Do the plastic ones give any such trouble? Been hesitant to try one cuz of the cold effect of plastic around here and my tractors winter in the cold. 50 -60 below not uncommon for a few weeks..MPH
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