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Simplicity Puller (FINAL PICS 7-16-13)


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Well this tractor is now quite a celebrity on this site. You probably will recognize it as BrettW's System 7016 he saved from the scrapper at a dealership. Well I am now the proud owner of it:J and its going to be transformed from a sad little neglected tractor to a beast of a pulling tractor. (hopefully):D I picked it up today and gave it a power shower and also finally brought home the engine that will be powering it, which has been stored at my local glory hole.dOd

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Looks like it cleaned up nice. I've always read that the six speed is what you want for pulling, not the Shuttles.

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This one is a straight 3 speed. The only thing I am worried about with this tractor is how I am going to support the rear end and axles for the load of pulling and the weights. I am thinking some sort of gusset plate design to sandwich the rear end, then connected to the frame. And some kind of kicker system for the axles. But it'll all come together as I go.

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Aaron, the stock 3-speed transaxle will handle up to about 40hp. The weak point is the tube axle and differential, I have broken both in tractor pulling. Make sure both are installed with good tight keys with no play. And install a muffler clamp around the tube axle on the right side between the differential and the gear case. This will prevent busting up the gear case if you break the tube axle. No other reinforcing is needed, unless you are going above 40hp, then you will need something other than a Simplicity transaxle or major modifications to it.

Mount your weight brackets...one in the back, one in the center, and one on the front of the tractor. Mount your wheelie bars/wheels to the same points as the rear hitch, no special reinforcing needed to the transaxle for this.

My suggestion is to convert the drive to 5/8" belt with a series of driven pulleys that you change for track and conditions. I have a set of pulleys from 4-1/2" to 8" with the appropriate belt for each, that I can change quickly (about 15 sec.) change.

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Thanks Mike. I looked through your profile yesterday and was going to contact you sometime about your set up. Is there any way I could get some pictures of how you have your back end set up on your puller?

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Yes, no problem if you send me your e-mail I can send you some pictures. Unless others would benefit and I can post some pictures here.

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Started on engine today. It was loose but would only cycle like 90%. Pulled the heads and turned out to be full of black goo about 1/2 inch thick on the pistons that wouldnt compress against the heads. took care of that, polished the bore and it spins free and easy. No pics yet, hopefully soon as I intend to paint it right away as I put all the shields back on.

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18hp I believe. It might be a 16 though. no hood or tag on the donor tractor. All I know is that it is a SS series

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Ok. So i got the engine all cleaned and redone. Went to test fire it and tune it but it has no spark. There is power to the coil and points, but still no spark. It could be the sparkplugs but I highly doubt both are bad. Any suggestions or ideas? thanks a lot

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I would still change the plugs, Aaron. They are cheap and you'll want a new set anyway. Then you may have a coil issue? Perhaps a spark tester would help. They aren't expensive and they are a great help in trouble shooting.

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My guess is coil or maybe condenser. The engine looks nice anyway, I've never seen one of these Onan engine before. Had a lot of bigger ones that ran 25 to 60 KW generators when I was in service.

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Thanks Bob! So I followed the steps of the video and there is no spark leaving the coil. I tried 2 sets of wires to be sure. The coil takes power and the ground wire arcs when contacting a ground, but nothing leaves the two terminals down the wire. I will run to napa today and try a harley coil

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A double coil from other two cylinder motorcycles will work also. We put one from a Kawasaki on an Onan belonging to a friend of mine when his coil went bad.

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Definitely tie the frame together from front to back at the bevel gear box. Don't trust the 4 bolts into the cast iron of the BGB. A bad ride with a hard landing could break the tractor in two, right with you in the middle. I don't have any real good pics of how I did my 7016, but look at the black straps hanging down in the middle. I used the holes in the rear frame plates that the PTO idler cross shaft went through for the rear mounts, and existing holes in the front frame to bolt them to. I used 1/4 x 1 1/4"? strap. Made a slight bend in them to follow the angle of the front frame. I ran in weight classes from 950 to 1200lbs with the original Briggs, competing in what was called Stock/Altered (original cam and carb) and Pro Stock (any cam and carb).

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I was supposed to stop by Aaron tonight to pick up the wheels I sent along to get it rolling home. I ended up running late, as I took Barbs new Sante Fe in for an oil change. As I watched the usual 15 minute ordeal, I was surprised to see the young man with a large ratchet cranking on something from the top of the engine bay. It turns out that Hyundai, in its ultimate wisdom, has some kind of large cap that you unscrew, with large O-ring, and the car has some type of a canister filter that is installed from the top. Filter was an EXTRA 6 bux. I'm thinking "what the heck"!, the good old canister filters used by the millions every day isn't good enough? Hyundai had to reinvent the wheel? Anyway, get the oil change completed, off to the car wash, and back to drop the car off and head down to Aaron's place. As I get out of the car I smell oil on the exhaust manifold. Not such a big deal right after an oil change to smell a bit of residue. But this was strong. I look under the car and oil is pouring out underneath. What??? I only put on about 4 miles total from oil change joint to car wash and back to Barb's work place. No oil light yet, so I shoot right back to the oil change joint, leaving a distinct trail the entire way. The young man had not installed the cap properly and it was pumping oil out like no other. What a mess. 12k on the new car and it's got oil everywhere. Well, 2+ quarts later and 25 minutes of cleaning as best as they could, and I was finally on the road. You have to ask yourself, why!?!? Why reinvent a simple and proven method? Dumb.

So anyway, Aaron, that's why I was late and couldn't hook up. }:)

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It's been 2 plus years since I left the shop work, but as I recall, Chevy was using that filter then. :o:O

The mechanics even needed a special socket to get the caps off. :D

I used a large crows foot. ;)

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Thats fine Brett. Sorry about your troubles. You didnt hold me up at all, as I was just hanging around the shop installing new knives on my stalk chopper for the farm.

And TimJr, thank you for the info and picture!

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Hope your project goes well. I had lots of fun, and success with mine. Very reliable with the set up I had. Any questions, just ask. Tim

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Well I managed to get a Harley Davidson coil off a 2003 883 from a co-worker of my dads. I got it all rewired and IT ACTUALLY RUNS:D:D:D. Only had time to pour a little gas in the carb and crank it over. Am going to run an I.V bag to it tomorrow and give it an actual test run through the rpm's

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