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GrincheyOne

Get "Queen" back on her feet! DONE 4 NOW

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GrincheyOne

There is always another project sneaking in to the existing timeline, and projects.

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I currently have the tower of the 4212LTG torn down to replace the fuel line. When it was taken out of service, there was evidence that there was some intermittent problems with the flow in the fuel line. When it takes two days to gravity-drain the 2.5 gallon tank. The line was back blown with my compressor hose (@125 PSI) to clear any crud or obstructions. The engine is a gravity feed system (no fuel pump to worry about). The hose in question is the rather stiff 1/4" hose sold by ACE. The engine would run fine for a few minutes, than begin surging. The shutoff and filter were purchased from my local dealer. I rely on the fact that he sold me the correct items. Last two weeks, I got as far as pulling the steering wheel, and the cover over the tank, then serving eviction notice to some of the field critters. removed the tank, and replaced the pressed in rubber bushing and straight fitting. I am installing a 90 degree fitting, which has been cleaned of that "wonderful corn residue". I purchased a bulkhead mount fuel valve from a cycle dealer, and am ready with a 5 pack of Briggs 120 micron inline filters. Note- the carb is new from Briggs, and has less than 10 hours on it. I do hope by replacing the hose, shutoff-valve, and filter, along with re-routing the line to be on a constant down angle, will solve this PITA!

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steve-wis

I had a tractor do that once and it turned out that the line was a bit too long, causing it to droop just enough to cause an air lock so the gas wouldn't run out. It worked fine till about half the tank was gone, then problems. Just another thought.

Steve

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goodtimo

on one of our marine outboards, if the fuel hose didn't have the wire mesh embedded in it, it would collapse when the carb sucked the fuel, causing it to starve and surge. But if your hose is really stiff you shouldn't have to deal with that issue...

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Tarheel

Wayne,

I have run into a slow draining tank many times over the years. One of the worst was where someone had drilled black plastic and the curled up plastic had dropped into the fuel tank.

You could run it for maybe an hour at times and no problem or, if you ran it hard right off the bat it may give trouble right away. I guess it was somehow that the faster the fuel would flow, the tighter it would close the plastic. It had found its way into the nipple on the plastic fuel tank of a 3410 or such and you couldn't see it. And when you tried to blow it out, the thing worked like a check valve !

So while you have it down, I would take a drill bit or a coat hanger wire and run it up into the tank while looking inside with an LED flashlight. Dirt and leaves etc can pack in there the same way. (Some of those nipples have a taper and trash can really pack hard)

Good luck with it.

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GrincheyOne

Time to start with some recent pictures...This is the new panel mounted fuel shutoff ($15) from Amazon. All metal ball valve. I have to mount it in the lower console, since i have to follow the laws of gravity^.

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Now to get a decal design to Clickit for a decal. Although, the item description stated there was an on-off decal included, the supplier said that was a mistake. Perhaps Nate (Stickit) has a stock item.This is a photo of the steering wheel being coaxed off the column with my new 4" bearing puller (HFT). The puller does not come with the cross bar, connecting screws (7/16"), or drive screw. I used the ones from my smaller kit.

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The most time was in pulling the bolt that goes through the steering wheel and shaft. Gonna fix that before the steering wheel goes back. with that I got good look of the mouse mess, that was behind the tank in the upper console housing.

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This is the mess in the lower housing, around the steering sector gear.

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After a good vacuuuming, some more viewsThis is a peak inside of the lower console, You get a good view of the steering sector gear, and how open, and vulnerable the steering gear box is to "hosting" "critter clutter".(this is something else to address in a future project to Refurbish the 4212, perhaps build a housing around the gear box, and provide zerk access)id="blue">. .

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This is a view from the opposite side. The fuel hose is loose fitted (running through the originally provided hole to the engine)

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This is the bottom of the tank, with new bushing, and a modified 90* fitting from the old '69 Landlord carb. I may set the bushing into the tank with "Goop", because it did pop out when moving the tank around. The fitting was installed using TFE paste. Once I have a clearer idea of how the parts will layout, I can rotate the fitting to suit.

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Hope is to take advantage of the promised 65* later today, and make some progress in placing the hole and mounting the valve. Then test the gravity flow. I feel it best to leave the new 120 micron filter out of the mix, until I see how the basic run flows.Good NightWayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

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GrincheyOne

Well Folks, time to move from plan A to plan C. I will have to pull the lower module to assure that the hose routing and connections are secure. The

valve is mounted (no picture yet). Have to find where I stored the hose clamps. The bushing was adjusted and installed with Seal All.

The engine has been topped off with Castroil 10W30. Ready to go once the fuel line is tested. It;s currently 53* here in Green Lane. Tomorrow promises morning rain and 55*, downgrading to 28* Wednesday night. A couple good days.Then the temperatures start going back up, along with a promise of rain (clear through to Tuesday.

Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

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GrincheyOne
Originally posted by simple-kid

Hopefully everything works out for yah Wayne.

removing the connections to the ignition switch, and covering the tape with some on-hand 1" shrink tube. a more permanent solution will be attempted, when the electric lift is installed. For now it's scrape, vacuum, and Lysol the area.B)

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. The magenta line points to the branching of the cable harness. This makes it difficult to install a metal conduit (to deter the chewing) at this time. Again I defer to the installation of the electric lift ahead! The yellow line indicates a rubber chair leg cap, that I installed when I did the major repair of the steering, just after purchasing the machine. YES! the steering column will be at least given a coat of "Rust Reformer".This is a shot of the valve inside the lower console. More to come!

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For those thinking of Powder Coating, This is an example of another application of "electrolytic painting" gone southsm02 SOMEDAY the running boards will be repainted with a "mettalic silver" and look more like "diamond plate" and a good contrast next to the gloss black frame.Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

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ZippoVarga

I tell ya Wayne. That Queen has come a long way from its introduction some time ago. One thing is for sure. With so many projects, there's never a dull moment on the Grinchy Mountain!

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GrincheyOne
quote:Originally posted by ZippoVarga

I tell ya Wayne. That Queen has come a long way from its introduction some time ago. One thing is for sure. With so many projects, there's never a dull moment on the Grinchy Mountain!


id="quote">
id="quote">I guess it's either the Aquarius, or tool and gauge inspector in me}:)!If, it ain't right; it ain't done yet!:D

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GrincheyOne

Everthings cleaned and ready to go back! Today was a sunny 47*, and an opportunity to get something done. Here is a good example of powder coating gone BAD!

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This is the lowest point of the frame, and is nearly impossible to protect against weather intrusion. It is evident that the coating has broken down, and the sub-strate needs some serious rust removal, and paint. Just in back of that is the steering gear, that will have to be protected.

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That steering box was new 7 years ago. perhaps some drain holes behind the box would help with drainage off of the frame.

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Later today I intend to drill some weep holes behind the steering box, and clean up the rust that was sprayed with PB to loosen, and apply some rust reformer.;)Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

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Brettw

The other item I will generally check in fuel tanks is if they have a screen at the pickup. If so, I remove them. They are not necessary when using an in-line filter. If they are plugged a compressor will back blow them, but under standard gravity, they still will not flow freely if the screen is all crusty.

Looks like in this case you have completely eliminated that, Wayne.

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GrincheyOne

Since the afternoon temperature topped out at 57, I got the new fuel line installed into the console, and tested for flow and leaks. Got about 2/3s of the console into place, along with rust cleanup. As soon as the temperature dipped to 41, I called a timeout for clean up, and have something to eat. Monday is not expected to get out of the 30s, and they are promising snow and rain. Looks like no breaks until the 28th.

Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

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GrincheyOne

A break in the weather on Thursday, and I was able to mount one of the rear wheel weights. Had to visit ACE for the bolts 7/16-6 I need to play with the mountings to make them easier to mount/remove as needed. Weare supposed to have temps in the 50s today. Perhaps even start her up.Got the orientation of the fuel filter squared away today, since ther is no marking on the filter, and no "notes to nummies" in the package...

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In case you are interested:o)Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">BTW - had a call back from Briggs, and She said it does not make any difference which way you put it into the line...?

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GrincheyOne

Today was a sunny 50+ day, so I played with the wheel weights again. The visit to ACE turned out to be three visits (my senior moments) the local store is going through a refurb process, so u may imagine the chaos in the Hillman aislesm02!

Trip 1 - get 4 7/16-8 carriage bolts, washers, nuts:D

Trip 2 - nuts were wrong thread pitchB)

Trip 3 - go to put the 4th bolt in, and it's a 1/2" bolt8

Added additional thread onto the smooth shoulder portion on two bolts, so

I could fasten them into the wheel hubs securely, before mounting the weights. Now to do the other two bolts, and shorten all four, so they do not

protrude beyond the weights. So with Sunday's promise of clear 50+ weather, I should be finished with the weights, and ready to play with the stone on the driveway.:D

Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

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GrincheyOne

Another spring-like day (Sunday), so I got to cut down the mounting bolts, and threaded the shoulders of them

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Thought I would trace the problem with the ignition circuit, and after shunting the three "nanny" switches, I have several candidates; the solenoid, the ignition switch, and the (most expensive) the "super nanny" aka interlock module. Monday I'll replace the solenoid (had one on hand for the '69 Landlord (and the mounting holes are matching)). I may go ahead without any "nannys" for now! I also have a spare ignition switch (Thanks to RayS). But I'll have to pull the top of the tower again!Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

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GrincheyOne

Pulled the solenoid,breaker,and interlock module. The breaker has continuity. Still have to test the solenoid. When I pulled the tower top and the gas tank I found, that that pesky bushing in the bottom of the tank had pulled loose. Need to find a better method of fastening it into the tank.

Pulled the ignition switch, and have yet to test it. So it's 1 step forward: 3 steps back!C I think I can eliminate the interlock, and the "nanny" switch on the seat, simplifying the wiring. Well tomorrow the monsoons move in!sm02

Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

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ZippoVarga

The Yard Queen will be better than new when it's all said and done Wayne! I know how progress can be slow and to expect the unexpected often. I've got items shipping out next Monday or Tuesday (pending the arrival of payments) so I'll get your stuff boxed up and ready to ship out with the other items so I'm only making one trip to the USPS main branch. Keep up the pace! Spring is just around the corner!!

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dentwizz

One issue I had a while back was the hardware store fuel line is not nearly as resilient against kinks or sucking in as the car parts store versions. I have seen enough times where that and the rubber durability proved to be detrimental so it's only automotive grade for me now.

Fuel proof silicone could be a mounting option for the bushing. Sometimes called gasket maker(of the proper variation as not all are fuel proof).

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GrincheyOne

Bought a new ignition switch and tank bushing on Tuesday. Tested the original solenoid, and it is intermittent at the starter contacts. Yesterday was a bust, and today was no winner outdoors. Picked up some Permatex "form-a-gasket" to try to secure the tank bushing. This is the Rubber bushing, the hole in the bottom of the polypropylene tank is only 0.011" smaller than the neck of the bushing (hardly enough to tightly grip the bushing, and the hose fitting (attached)).

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If the bushing had a grove in the neck, it would hold more securely in the tank. Ah, well today is a new day to "brainstorm"!Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

57e05dd5bf31d_Tankbushingsm.jpg.802bbbf13683a0038142012906b74138.jpg

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GrincheyOne

Saturday was a bust, and today was committed to personal business. BUT,after several exchanges, I am going with Zippo's suggestion; which is my solution #2 (below). I added the critical dimensions, part #s. and cost (where known). Today is supposed to be a repeat of Saturday (slush storms)XX(

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Got to get her running. My driveway has as many potholes, as the moon has craters!sm02Wayneid="Book Antiqua">id="size4">

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