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mbsengineer

help finding spec # for K301 mini-block

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mbsengineer

I just puchased a K301 mini-block. Once I received it, I realized it's not exactly the same as my old one from my AC712. It has a different dipstick and is missing the flanges for mounting. When I was trying to look up the spec number in the Kohler parts manual I have, it says on the bottom "for miniblocks, short blocks, and service engines refer to selection guide TP-2080-C". Therefore I can't determine the spec number for my new engine. It appears I will need it as I need a few replacement parts that are different from my K301. The numbers on the card included with the engine are as follows...

J.N. 79-6327

Model P8216571

Spec B-237838

All of the spec numbers in my book are 4 or 5 digit numbers starting with 47.

I'll also need to figure out how I'm going to bolt this bad-boy onto my frame ... but I can address that later. =) Need to get all the parts, and get it assembled first.

Thanks for any help!

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HubbardRA

I don't know how to go from the numbers for the block and work backward. I thought those numbers were for your original engine. You should be able to use the engine numbers to find out the correct block you should have. I have never done this.

I had one block bored, but left all of that to the small engine shop that I work with.

I have purchased, and also traded off some engines and blocks, but I always did this just based on the type of block it was. I have never checked a block number for any reason.

You need a block with the ears on it. Don't know what number that is.

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MysTiK

I can't find it but some manual I have translates spec numbers. They can be a few digits or longer string of numbers - spec #'s follow a formula - every digit means something - translating it reveals exactly what the engine is. I have tried a couple times to locate this info; drives me crazy scanning manuals. It's not in the Kohler ops manual. Maybe in my 700-series manual. Just can't find it again.

I don't know what you bought; but I was thinking call Kohler Authorized Repair Dealer for assistance - s/b someone fairly local.

I had a parts tractor needed a motor - and soon found out that was not easy with different oil pans especially. Oil pan bolts to frame, sets height and driveshaft orientation, etc. General fit. Maybe some flex in this; but oil pan is a tough area to get around.

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MysTiK

other stuff from search the net: I don't know if this is of any help to you.

K301 Selection Guide TP-2080-E

http://www.leegov.com/gov/dept/ProcurementManagement/quotes/Documents/Small%20Gasoline%20Engine%20Powered%20Equipment%20and%20Hand%20Tools%20Repair/Pricing%20for%20Kohler.pdf

(I think this is a price list).

K301 Selection Guide TP-2080-C

has been replaced twice by version D and version E

(discontinued engine models)

K301 Selection Guide TP-2080-E

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mbsengineer

I actually traded emails with Kohler Engine Field Service. It turns out, the card included in the mini-block I bought (with the numbers I previously listed) wasn't for the block I purchased. It must have been thrown in (or fallen in) by mistake. It is from a K321 mini-block. Mine is actually a B-237865. (made it out on the outside of the original box the block was shipped in) Kohler confirmed this number is a replacement mini-block for a K301, and sent me a list of spec numbers this mini-block was to replace. The Kohler guy has been a GREAT help thus far!

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HubbardRA

Did the Kohler Rep. offer to give you the correct mini-block? The one you have is for a Cub Cadet, Deere, or Case and is not a replacement block for your original engine.

If you bought that block from Kohler, they should take that one back and give you the correct one.

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mbsengineer

I didn't buy it from Kohler. I got it from a dealer who closed his shop and had some left over inventory to sell. I got a great deal on it, which is why I got it even though I knew it wouldn't be a direct drop-in.

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Al

HI,

You have an A block. The sump bolts on with bolts from the bottom up into bosses cast in the corners of the block. These are commonly used by John Deere, Cub, Jacobson, Ford and others. In the Ford and Jacobson applications the sump is welded into the frame and then the engine added. I have seen blocks with the ears (which you MUST have) converted to Cub use if the block does not have the relief area on the sides of the block. If the inside of the crankcase is straight on the sides I have seen guys saw the ears off and drill and tap the block for the bolts from the bottom. Most ear blocks have a relief in the sides and them this can't be revised. In your case there is no option, you need a different bock. The best thing that you can do is to share your deal with a cub or deere person and find a correct block. KEEP IN MIND that there are 2 different length rod dippers used and a long dipper in a shallow sump or a deep sump with the short dipper rod equals total disaster. If you sell the block you owe it to the person to be sure it has the rod he needs.

Good Luck,

Al Eden

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mbsengineer
quote:Originally posted by Al

HI,You have an A block. The sump bolts on with bolts from the bottom up into bosses cast in the corners of the block. These are commonly used by John Deere, Cub, Jacobson, Ford and others. In the Ford and Jacobson applications the sump is welded into the frame and then the engine added. I have seen blocks with the ears (which you MUST have) converted to Cub use if the block does not have the relief area on the sides of the block. If the inside of the crankcase is straight on the sides I have seen guys saw the ears off and drill and tap the block for the bolts from the bottom. Most ear blocks have a relief in the sides and them this can't be revised. In your case there is no option, you need a different bock. The best thing that you can do is to share your deal with a cub or deere person and find a correct block. KEEP IN MIND that there are 2 different length rod dippers used and a long dipper in a shallow sump or a deep sump with the short dipper rod equals total disaster. If you sell the block you owe it to the person to be sure it has the rod he needs.Good Luck,Al Eden


id="quote">
id="quote">Thanks Al. I knew this one wasn't "exactly" what I needed, but I was just planning to convert this to work. As far as I can tell, the issues I need to sort out are as follows...(1) get an oil pan to match the dipper I have (which you mentioned)(2) get a new oil fill tube, and dipstick (to match the pan)(3) make sure I match up the height from the bottom up to the PTO for the transmission (so I can correctly bolt it back in place)(4) "convert" the bolt pattern from the old oil pan to the new one ... either by machining or building a conversion to use the old holes, or drill new holes through the frame.(5) drill a hole for the new oil drain plugI think I can handle it. We'll see. =)

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