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mroman59

Oil Additives for you tractor engine?

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BLT

I could see additives for extended changes, but most manuals recommend oil changes between 25 and 50 hrs which equates to 875 and 1750 miles. Just like pouring money down a sewer. My 2 cents

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MysTiK

Different oils have different additives. I recently switched my summer oil to Diesel Oil 15w40, found out it has different additives again, some claim cleaner engine. I'm no expert.

I remember a long time ago adding Moly-Slip brand Molybdenum to rear end and manual trans on a car. Don't know if it made any difference.

Motor oils, I check regularly - and change it when it goes dark. It's easy to watch the colour change by checking the dipstick regularly. Basically within a couple months, depends on usage, depends on operating temps.

I have also in the past added trans fluid to motor oil just before changing, to thin and clean - kinda old school approach.

But no trix on the tractor - keep it clean.

My tractor, when I got it, had blackkk oil - took 2 changes to clear. Since, I keep clean, and since, engine doesn't smoke anymore - except if I prolong idle. Idling was always involved when it smoked at first - now, a short idle is not a problem. My engine loves me. sm03

716H - K341s (original)

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by fishnwiz

Lots of people seem to like the Marvel oil? What are the marked benefits to using this stuff?


id="quote">
id="quote">I think they came out with that stuff (Marvel Mystery Oil) right after the first Model "T" rolled off the assembly line. I think they write the benefits right on the container. I have some for my impact wrenches and it looks like ATF.:D

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Bruker
quote:Originally posted by fishnwiz

Lots of people seem to like the Marvel oil? What are the marked benefits to using this stuff?


id="quote">
id="quote">It's also usefull as an aftershave.

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BLT

Right from their website.

"Formerly a product of the Marvel Oil Company, Marvel Mystery Oil continues to be one of the best names in its field, with its make-up still a mystery. " Could be reconstituted drain oil for all I know.;)

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Guest

I would not use Marvel oil in the engine crankcase - it is quite thin and would change the engine oil viscosity. However, I DO use it mixed with my gasoline for my tractors and other garden equipment (1/2 oz. of Marvel to 1 gal. of gas). It lubes the valve seats, top of the valve guides, and the top (compression) piston ring. Marvel is a blend of petroleum oils and plant (vegetable) oils. The vegetable oils burn cleanly in the cylinder and do not leave an ash residue, unlike pure petroleum oils.

I think Marvel is good insurance when burning unleaded gas. It provides vital lubrication to the valve seats that used to be provided by the tetraethyl lead in the good 'ole days.

My 2 cents worth (well, maybe 3 cents!).

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Kenh

For a short time I sold Chevron products. At one seminar there was one of the chemists tell about the process of formulating an oil additive package. He told us that sometimes 1/2 of 1% change in one additive will screw up the works and throw everything off.

So IMO oil additives, if added to Plain-Jane old oil without an additive package would be fine. If you buy off the shelf oil, DO NOT add anything to it.

I may be biased....;) but I like the Chevron Delo diesel engine oil. It has an excellent additive package.

Ken

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427435
quote:Originally posted by Kenh

For a short time I sold Chevron products. At one seminar there was one of the chemists tell about the process of formulating an oil additive package. He told us that sometimes 1/2 of 1% change in one additive will screw up the works and throw everything off. So IMO oil additives, if added to Plain-Jane old oil without an additive package would be fine. If you buy off the shelf oil, DO NOT add anything to it.I may be biased....;) but I like the Chevron Delo diesel engine oil. It has an excellent additive package.Ken


id="quote">
id="quote">I would agree with you and that chemist. Use a good, well respected oil of the proper viscosity for the temps involved. Or do as I do, and use Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel 5w-40 year around. I am also not very "religious" about changing oil. Maybe every couple of years in the lighter used engines.

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superbman101

I have always ran Pennzoil 5W-20 in my tractors. I do have newer rings and high compression in them. Don’t run them enough for them to burn up in the summer on 5W (recommended 10W). As for additives: I’m with BTL on this one, why would they use additives if they didn’t call it out in the manuals or come that way. I do however, Use LUCAS SAE 75W-90 SYNTHETIC GEAR OIL in my bevel gear boxes. We pull on asphalt about 4,200lbs dead weight and the bevels get really hot and will wear if any slop.

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427435
quote:Originally posted by superbman101

I have always ran Pennzoil 5W-20 in my tractors. I do have newer rings and high compression in them. Don’t run them enough for them to burn up in the summer on 5W (recommended 10W). As for additives: I’m with BTL on this one, why would they use additives if they didn’t call it out in the manuals or come that way. I do however, Use LUCAS SAE 75W-90 SYNTHETIC GEAR OIL in my bevel gear boxes. We pull on asphalt about 4,200lbs dead weight and the bevels get really hot and will wear if any slop.


id="quote">
id="quote">Again (and again and again), you do not have 5w oil when at operating temperature. You have 20 weight oil. In addition, at operating temp, that 20 weight oil is much thinner than the 5w oil was at initial start-up.In air-cooled engines, I much prefer using a 5w-30 or 5w-40 oil. You still have faster lubrication at start-up with the 5w part and a better oil viscosity at operating temp (compared to a 20 weight oil).

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MrSteele

I have always used 30 wt in my engines, highest test gas I can find, no ethanol. The engine runs clean. I may or may not change the oil at the start of a season, depends on if it is dirty from mulching leaves or not.

In my vehicles, change the break-in oil and another change, then replace the filter at oil change interval and top the oil off. Have some over 170k on my truck, haven't had the plug out in over 150k.

To a great extent, the oil companies are selling oil, whether for vehicles or small engines. This is only an opinion, however

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ngale65

Well, ill throw my 2 cents in. In 2008 the epa restricted uses of zinc and other additives in oils. this doesnt matter so much in newer cars but in older engines the zinc played and important role in cutting down metal to metal friction. My engine builder who did the big block for my car recommended this: buy a oil that says off road use only (i.e. brad penn makes a good oil, or oils that specify high zinc). he also advised if you cant find one of those oils then goto john deere and buy their tractor oil, Deere oils do not comply with any emission standards yet and still have the old levels. He doesn't not recommend any additives. Just to change oil regularly.

now keep in mind this guy builds race engines that cost from 10,000-80,000 dollars. and he has been doing it for40 years. I went with his advice. I run Brad penn 10w30 in my stuff. or John deere 10w30 / sae30 in all my stuff.

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