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TomWilliamson

Pulling Tractor

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osenga

Well if you want to put a 16hp in it if the frame is not cut out for the shroud that will have to be done for it to fit in correctly. But other then that you are set to put in there when you come across the motor you want.

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osenga

Well if you want to put a 16hp in it if the frame is not cut out for the shroud that will have to be done for it to fit in correctly. But other then that you are set to put in there when you come across the motor you want.

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BLT
quote:Originally posted by rokon2813

Before you decide on an engine, I would check the rules wherever you are going to pull. Some stock classes are limited to 14 hp around here.


id="quote">
id="quote">Well, well Dan. I found an engine that meets that requirement. Briggs - HP 14 - Model 320421 - Type 0134-01How about that.:D

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HubbardRA

Around here, for a few bucks, you can protest someone's engine and they will pull his head to find out what size it is. Protest fee is usually $50. If the engine is legal, the owner gets your money. If it is illegal, then you get your money back. The only problem is that your protest must be specific. You may protest engine size and that is what will be checked. If you protest cam, that is what will be checked. If the item you specified is legal, you lose your protest fee. If they find something illegal other than what you specified, the owner of the engine will be penalized accordingly, and the protest fee then belongs to the club. These rules were set up to avoid nuisance protests, that were only made to make it difficult for the tractor owner.

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MikeES

The 14hp that Bob found is a 32ci. so it will have the same shroud clearance issue as a 16hp. The only difference between a 32ci 14hp and 16hp is the carburetor, and the name plate on the shroud.

With many years tractor pulling, I recommend a Kohler engine vs. the Briggs. We started with a Briggs for the first 2 years and, out of 60+ passes we got 1 1st, 1 2nd, and 2 3rds. We then switched to Kohler and took 2 1st places at the first pull and over a dozen by the end of that season.

The Briggs makes a better working engine, but it cannot compete size for size with the Kohler for tractor pulling.

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TimJr

The Kohler also opens up a whole world of aftermarket parts if you ever plan on doing anything beyond stock. I ran a 16hp Briggs, but planned on and stayed in a "stock/altered" class that mandated stock cam and carb. The Briggs really held its own against other singles, and some twins, but when I ran in a more "open/modified" class, the Kohlers with a cam and modded carb would blow me away. Either way, have fun doing it, 'cuz ya won't make any money at it... Tim

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MikeES

FYI, I don't know if this applies to the Starter/Gen engines (never saw one with the stop tab) but on the B&S ring gear starter engines the only difference between the 32 ci 14, 15, an 16hp engines was a throttle stop tab on the carb on the 14 and 15hp. Bend or break off the tab and you had a 16hp engine.

I do not know if Briggs did the same on the 30 ci 12, 13, and 14hp engines.

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superbman101
quote:Originally posted by TomWilliamson

I'm thinking about making a pulling tractor out of a b1 any idea what the biggest engine briggs and stratton made/makes that I could put in?


id="quote">
id="quote">Hello Tom! Glad to hear your working on a puller! We pull asphalt with Briggs 16HP I/C engines.One of our current Pullers (Simplicity 2210) with 16hp briggs

DSC_0063-2.jpg

This is a Simplicity 725 puller Im working on right now with a nice newer 16hp I/C in it

IMG_2868-2.jpg

If your going to build a Allis B1 puller or a Simplicity 700/725 youll have to cut the frame to make it match the landloard's and b-10... frames because the shroud cover

IMG_2871-2.jpg

and make room for the oil also...

IMG_2870-2.jpg

hope these tips help you build a mean puller! C|:dOd

DSC_0063-2.jpg.74f9e8d23e0bdd59f6eaa6c8c45b6efa.jpg

IMG_2868-2.jpg.48f7a7c2d39dd4aaa5dabf1d1385afb9.jpg

IMG_2871-2.jpg.6b168c23d05e5702b6eefb21c11a7787.jpg

IMG_2870-2.jpg.f8121405bdc0baade73d5addae3bfc14.jpg

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ac-b12

Tom, You may want to beef up the frame a bit by the gear box on the B-1, it's a little lighter than the other B series tractors. This is the one Allis tractor that could use the chassis connectors.

As for the Briggs engine, that 32 cube Briggs will do anything a 14hp 32 cube Kohler will do, both on and off of the governor. If your club has a 14hp and under open rpm rule, I suggest using it. Our 14hp 32 cube Briggs works very good with the gov removed. Our club has 18hp at 4,000 rpm, 16hp at 4,400 rpm, 14 and under open rpm. We have been very competitive with our Briggs in this setting.

Coming home with a win against 20 or more Kohler powered tractors is priceless!

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TimJr

The only thing about running over 4000rpm - go with a Kohler. I am not aware of a billet flywheel for a cast iron Briggs. At least there were not any 12 years ago when I built my Briggs for a limited class. The Kohler aftermarket makes it a much better choice for anything much over a mild build with an rpm limit. A flywheel explosion would be devastating to the operator and possibly bystanders. Yeah, I know - everyone has run a Briggs up to 5 grand, but how many times before an accident - why does the NHRA and NTPA require explosion proof clutches, flywheels and bellhousings? Tim

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HubbardRA

When pulling with SVTPA, any garden tractor engine that runs over 4000 rpm is required to have a billet flywheel. Some of you may want to check out this short video showing some of the more radical tractors of in the SVTPA pullers. It may give you an idea why they are so concerned about safety.

A friend put together a Pro Stock engine but used a stock flywheel. First time he made a practice run it sheared the flywheel key. He put another one in. After two more runs it sheared another. When he pulled the flywheel off to replace this second sheared key, he noticed that there were cracks all around the center bore in the flywheel going our radially. In other words the flywheel was getting ready to come apart. He immediately ordered a billet flywheel. Didn't have any problems with that one.

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superbman101

We pull asphalt which is a lot different but it still is about traction and balancing weights

This is a bone stock B110 with an opposed 18hp twin pulling 4150lbs dead weight :D

our others have 16hp I/C engines bone stock.

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fishnwiz

250.00 for a Billet flywheel! Who said pulling is a poor man's sport? I am not real familiar with this sport. Is there anyway to recoup any of your investment in your tractor or is it pure labor of love and fun and competition? There really is no way to get into this sport on the cheap?

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ac-b12

It's not going to pay much back, that's for sure. For me it's it is an opportunity to use our tractors more and it's time with my two sons, the drivers. And it's an incredible amount of fun! MikeES will probably agree with this.

quote:Originally posted by fishnwiz

250.00 for a Billet flywheel! Who said pulling is a poor man's sport? I am not real familiar with this sport. Is there anyway to recoup any of your investment in your tractor or is it pure labor of love and fun and competition? There really is no way to get into this sport on the cheap?


id="quote">
id="quote">

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TimJr

$250 for a billet flywheel - wish I would have had access to that 13 years ago. I would have done it ASAP and swapped a Kohler carb onto my Briggs and jumped up a class! I always thought the Briggs could breathe a whole lot better through a 1" Kohler sidedraft than they do through the original updraft Flo-Jet.

Is your foot/leg or someone else's safety not worth $250?

Motorsports are dangerous no matter what. Eliminating a serious safety complication for $250 is worth it everytime.

Rod - thanks for the example above.

Pulling isn't about getting your money back - just won't happen. It's about making your machine into something it wasn't before. It's about meeting other people who appreciate your efforts. It's about learning more about the sport. It's about family and friends and helping someone when something doesn't go quite right or a extra hand is needed.

It can also be about back stabbing, rule breaking cheaters etc. too. Boys and their toys can lead to some real immature problems.

I get my 7016 out every now and then yet. Tim

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rokon2813
quote:Originally posted by fishnwiz

250.00 for a Billet flywheel! Who said pulling is a poor man's sport? I am not real familiar with this sport. Is there anyway to recoup any of your investment in your tractor or is it pure labor of love and fun and competition? There really is no way to get into this sport on the cheap?


id="quote">
id="quote">You can play cheaper than the big boys, just won't win much. I had less than $1000 in 3 tractors for my kids a few years back.They had fun without winning. If you can find a club with an "off the lawn" class you can compete for cheap. Stock class is okay, but even stock pullers can spend a bit of coin.Here, there was always an insurance fee, some clubs include that in the "hook" fee. The "hook" fee is what you pay every time you hook up to compete.Like somebody said earlier, usually 2 "hooks" per class.so "cheap" goes something like this.$50 for gas in the tractors and truck to get there.$20 per kid per week hook fee's. Yep 10 bucks every time you get on the track$50 to feed the kids$40 misc.So about 200 bucks a week for 3 kids to play. IF you don't break anything......And BTW, that is for "dad" to watch and do all the work without getting to drive one :D:D:D

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