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Mower deck rebuild


Robert Kehoe

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I'm doing a deck now and the shafts are splined. I put the shafts in a vise loosely with the bearing on the top of the vise jaws then screwed a bolt in the spline and beat it with a hammer, they came off easy. Getting the arbor apart was the hardest.

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quote:Originally posted by fishnwiz

A very LARGE Hammer and a lot of swearing!!:(!


id="quote">
id="quote">This could be a good idea. And it could be a bad idea. In either case, the swearing won't help directly; but could help control the application of the hammer.Is that what you meant? Or something different?In my experience the hammer is necessary; but must be intelligently - no, better said, knowledgeably applied. Often problems are caused by a lack of same. It depends. It's complicated. Size doesn't matter so much as [knowing what you are hammering] does. Be sure, for sure, if possible - otherwise you buy new expensive parts.What tractor? Spindle type? What deck?Some ideas in this thread might be helpful, regardless of which tractor - see the stuff on busting pulleys.http://simpletractors.com/Club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=111826There are other threads.Having a manual showing some details of the parts = priceless! First time through this is potentially difficult - although people say it's easy. Attention to detail is helpful.
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Mine are for B-10 and 2010 mowers using a 42" model 990285 deck. Mine have a half moon key an the arbor. I found out the hard way by trying to drive the arbor out the bottom without pulling the pulley and removing the key.

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My deck is newer type - but I made similar mistakes with the hammer. I thought I knew what I was doing (hammering); but found out the hard way. It's either not fair, or just plain tricky, I dunno. but when the hammer use escalates from light tapping to full bore smashing - that's a red light indicator. True with a lot of things. It's hard to get accurate info. Exploded parts diagrams help; but it's only real [what you can see] in front of you. And if you don't see it - keep looking until it makes sense.

I'm not much help w the older keyed shafts. But there's a lot of those around, so maybe someone can jump in and offer useful info and some direct experience.

The other people here, if they have the newer type splined shafts would do better starting their own threads, since this is Robert's thread. Mixing both types in one thread is likely very confusing; and would be hijacking this thread as well. IMHO. Good luck. I'm out.

@Robert - you might need to re-ask your question, if needed. (?)

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