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StanS

Simplicity 3410 - Traction, belt slipping

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DorneyMA1
6-14-99 @ 21:54

Brian,

Here in hilly East Tennessee I found liquid filled
tires on my B-1 AC worked just fine. I took my tires to
a local farm store and had them filled with a calcium
chloride solution. Calcium chloride may be corrosive.
I think liquid fill may be available with an alcohol
solution. Check a farm tire store.

Roy

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DorneyMA1
Hi Brian, I can't help with the belt but some other members includeing myself are using wider wheels to give our tractors a wider track in the rear. I found a dealer with a pair of wheels off of a Sunstar for my 1964 landlord. My landlord came with 8" wide wheels and the ones from the Sunstar that I used are 12" wide. Also I use wheel weights which give the tractor a lower center of gravity all of these changes have done away with my tractor wanting to tip over on its side. Some people also run duel wheels in the back for a even wider stance and some also use spacers to give their tractors a wider stance. But Brian I just can't imagine from what I have heard you discuss in the past how any of these chances would be safe for which the discription of the yard you are trying to mow. The reason I went with the wider stance is for a very limited time of using my tractor to coverse a hill to which my tractor felt like it may tip over. Please use extreme care when using your tractor in the way that you are as I know none of us would want to here of one of our members being injured. Don't get me wrong Brian but I have not only heard of these types of accidents but I have also been a witness to a couple so please use common sence also. Just a caring "Member".-->jackl-happyjack<--

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Guest
Hi, I agree with Stan, used windshield washer fluid. We used to use antifreeze and water 50-50, but found after a few years the rubber between the cords in the tires would get soft and the tires would get all distorted and gourds on the sidewall. When the Sunrunners came out fact service suggested washer fluid, works well, can put in tubless, just break 1 bead and pour in, doesn't harm tires. Do not fill beyond the top of the rim. with the valve stem up you should get air out of the stem with the tire vertical. With the fluid in the tire will not compress on the bottom as musch oon hillsides, because the volume of air is about 1/4 and tdhe fluid don't compress.
As to the belt slipping we have seen a number of these older tractors in our shop that the front drive pulley (right side of crossdrive) has the sides worn so it looks like a U instead of a V. Check the pulley carefully if it is you are driving with the narrow flat on the inside of the belt instead of the wedging action of the V. I would guess I've seen 20 or 25 of these over the last few yrs. A new pulley creates a new tractor. Good Luck, Al

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StanS
Thanks to all for prior help on my new "toy" - a Simplicity 3410. With a bunch of parts from Jack's Small Engines, I'm up and running. Fabulous mower!


A few issues I'd appreciate any advice on:

1) Even after replacing the drive belt, I'm still getting some slippage when driving down steep hills. Much better than on the old belt, but it still slips, speeding up well above the engine speed. I see no real adjustment (beyond choice of 3 holes for the spring on the clutch linkage). I'm tempted to add a second spring there. Any comments?

2) I need more traction for those hills, and a bit lower center of gravity. (Hit a bump in the back yard . . . while crossing hill sideways. Rear wheel came up off ground and STAYED off for a time. And no, it's not practical to mow up& down only there!)

a) How much do wheel weights weigh? Any suggestions on finding a set for less than the roughly $100 cost for new??

b) Or should I go the antifreeze in tires route?

Thanks,
Brian

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StanS
Brian,

Not familiar with your machine but I can comment on the liquid for tires. Calcium Chloride needs to be mixed, is a mess and is corrosive. Antifreeze is just as bad. Use winter windshield wash, not corrosive, inexpensive and when finished your hands are clean.

Stan

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tej
Brian, Does your tractor have variable speed or straight 3 speed. The variable needs careful adjustment to make it work. I've had 2 of them and the belts slipped excessively when I bought them. I assume your have OEM belts. As for the hillside mowing I also have very steep hillsides to mow. I have 23X12X12 turf tires and have them spaced out to run just inside the cut of the 42" deck, about 40" to the outside of the tires. Also I would suggest wheel weights and never ever putting liquid in the tires. Tim

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tej
Thanks to all for the timely replies!

Jackl: Appreciate the warning...I'll be careful. Have mowed this slope for 5 yrs. Prior (much lighter, greatly inferior) machine sometimes ran out of traction but had no tendency to roll. . . higher center of gravity on the Simplicity. Just keeping speed down on worst sections (so bumps are not magnified) keeps it reasonable

Al: Will certainly check the pulley you mention. That would be great!

Tim: Unfortunately, mine is just the straight 3 spd. Yes, all belts were from Simplicity.

Thanks again!

Brian L.

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tej
Brian, One other thought on the slipping belt. I had a problem with this on a 3212 and found that the bushing in the clutch idler pulley bracket was worn out. When the idler pulley was pulled up against the belt the bracket would shift and not apply enough pressure to the belt. Tim

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Fred
Brian,
While I am definitely not one of the experts here on Sovereign-style tractors, I do have a couple of thoughts.
These all do have a somewhat narrow track, and are a bit tippy. Weights are the "A" choice, washer fluid is the preferable and least-troublesome tire fill.
Widening the track by any means adds stress to the axle tube and can cause eventual trouble.
The clutch idler pulley bracket can wear and compromise engagement. Inspect and R&R as required.
Due to lack of maintenance, the clutch pedal can stick and compromise engagement. It must freely return ALL THE WAY on its own return spring, giving the required free play at the rear end of the link. If the clutch pedal shaft is not lubed for a long time the nylon bushings can gall and/or the pedal shaft can rust. In severe cases remove the pedal, clean everything up, and carefully ream the bushings in place with a drill (I think it's 5/8" - CHECK FIRST). The drive-in grease fitting can be replaced by rocking it out carefully with a 'dikes', drilling and tapping (TAP SHALLOW AND TEST!) for an 8mm metric grease fitting (the only thing which can replace a 1/4" drive fitting).
If all else fails, a SunStar with reversed rears holds side-hills very well. (Yeah, yeah, bust my chops everybody!)
Fred

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