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littlemarv

Restoring my B-10

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littlemarv

Ever since I tilled the garden in November, the B-10 has been sitting rather forlornly waiting to be restored...

B10.jpg

All fall while it was 65 degrees out I kept saying "I really need to get that torn down and in the basement before it gets cold."So there I was outside today in single digit temps, tearing down.I removed the hood and grille, pulled the motor and unbolted the side plates from the tranny so we could carry it into the basement.I also built a table to work on.... Bob Vila eat your heart out. Any shmuck can build a table using premium lumber and laser guided saws and jigs and plans........ it takes a tractor guy to build one out of old landscape timbers and twisted 2X4s using a drill with a short in it with a phillips bit so rounded it ain't funny. That's how I roll...

b10 on table.jpg

I got the steer axle out tonight. I find that if every night I just pull a few bolts after awhile I have nothing left but a huge pile of parts. Then the real work begins...Just a warning: Theres lots of questions coming as I get into this project....

B10.jpg.a24cdad1b94649e158e5c95f3ad8be40.jpg

57e057541275f_b10ontable.jpg.aea9c8c0a489cfffdfc2a2f172ec81b5.jpg

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MysTiK
quote:All fall while it was 65 degrees out I kept saying "I really need to get that torn down and in the basement before it gets cold."id="quote">
id="quote">

I have done, did, am doing the same. But give yourself a break.

For me, there was other stuff going on, other stuff to do, tractor was tied up with wood hauling, mowing leaves until November, more wood hauling, other stuff happening, personal family crisis situation, etc. Yes, I had stuff happening for sure.

and I also said, I have to get this snowblower thing put together or I will end up in the cold doing it - sure enough - I became a cold weather wimpy, and finally got nailed. But I borrowed back the walkbehind blower I loaned to my father, and the 4WD clawed it's way up and out the hilly driveway - and now I can keep warm until the next snow comes - right? well - no - not quite right.

But now the garage is in chaos just to add to the fun.

so

I can fully relate. And you got lots to do with littlemarv and all too.

btw - is lil marv gonna help? :D

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GLPointon

Ryan that was a rough lookin tractor but now your well under way. Its nice to have a warm work area. I will be watching this one...(I have a "beater" B12 resto that I want to start in a month or two)...Good luck and keep us posted, we love pics dOd

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littlemarv

Yeah, this is going to be a long project. My goal is to get it apart and sandblasted in time to paint this summer. I have one of those "outdoor" paint booths, so I have to plan by season to paint.

I actually don't want my kids to help me during this stage- dirt and grease and really old possibly lead paint and kids don't mix.

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littlemarv

Somewhere along the way, somebody torched a hole in the right side plate and bolted a bracket in there...

bsteer1.jpg

Now I see whats in there- it looks like this bracket is supposed to hold the entire steering shaft to keep it from lifting up.

bsteer2.jpg

Whats supposed to be in there? My best guess is a collar and a set screw like on the rockshaft? That seems like it would work.Thanks for the help.

bsteer1.jpg.660e3f53d2eef5cfc2df855e33596323.jpg

bsteer2.jpg.43194de38d8e7cb7cab933b33334e1ed.jpg

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littlemarv

Sorry, I need to elaborate. The piece of metal has weld on the edge of it. It is not welded to the steering shaft, although it sure looks like it in that picture. The yoke can't move upward. You can see how shiny the shaft is from the metal rubbing on it.

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littlemarv

Now that I got the bracket out, I see someone put a lot of time into making it so it fits neatly around the shaft! In fact, if I can't come up with a better solution I may paint it yellow and bolt it back in! Gonna have to fix that side cover though.

allis 1-3-13 011.jpg

I just unhooked the steering at the u-joint and lifted the tower off for now. Started taking the rockshaft out. I bought a bearing splitter yesterday and its worth its weight in gold on this tractor:Its a Napa SER2263...... paid $40.00 for it

allis 1-3-13 010.jpg

You can see by the nicks in the puller already that you need to line it up so you don't hit the keys while pulling (couldn't avoid it on the rockshaft). Doesn't hurt fuctionality though.Pulling the steering wheel

swheel.jpg

And the Ackerman arm

ackerman.jpg

And the lift lever

allis 1-3-13 008.jpg

I hate the divot that gets left in the shaft when you use the pointed tip, thats why I put a hex nut between the tip and the shaft I'm pushing on. Just be sure the nut fits inside whatever your pulling off or you'll jam the nut into it!I also am using my Snap On bolt grip puller set- its about $225 off the truck, I picked mine up on ebay for $90. I have had cheap puller sets and you get what you pay for. The part number for the set is CJ2001P.

allis 1-3-13 009.jpg

allis 1-3-13 011.jpg

allis 1-3-13 010.jpg

swheel.jpg

ackerman.jpg

allis 1-3-13 008.jpg

allis 1-3-13 009.jpg

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swheel.jpg.59b9948c918fbeff630c589e17d64a36.jpg

ackerman.jpg.4249ee28380cf87aa1384dba83e63f83.jpg

57e05d66ed9ce_allis1-3-13008.jpg.6d43fee8294efa280b76dcb863db667b.jpg

57e05d67837b3_allis1-3-13009.jpg.4548e7002b34c1ee8d3694ee8695f41e.jpg

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littlemarv

Another pull....

allis 1-4-13 001.jpg

I figured out whats going on with the extra bracket on the lower steering shaft- the bushing is so worn out on the one side so the gear would skip so they put that bracket in to put side load on the shaft to keep it from skipping. Actually a good idea to fix with out taking the whole tower out.

allis 1-4-13 002.jpg

I think I will replace the plastic bushing with a brass one.So, here it is all busted down. Now to clean and repair all the worn pivots, and cracks near the BGB, and rebush the steer axle, etc.

allis 1-4-13 003.jpg

The only casualty was a woodruff key that got sucked up in the vacuum cleaner while I was cleaning the 10 pounds of junk out of the frame.Here is the "greasy" pile. Tomorrow while I'm at work I will run it through the parts washer.

allis 1-4-13 004.jpg

I am going to post a couple questions over in talking tractors. Always asking questions...

57e05d6831a4f_allis1-4-13001.jpg.6374dfb542a8f19cf5e8bcf74aedb45f.jpg

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57e05d68e2543_allis1-4-13004.jpg.7723f20d9c93bb1cea8383327aafc85b.jpg

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JoggerFogger

I love all the pictures. Of everything. I have a gear puller that I've used about 5 times in the last 8 years. I used it about 20 times taking apart my tractor over the last month. Awesome tool. Good trick on protecting the axle you're pushing.

-Kevin

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littlemarv

I don't think I have enough Armor All to save this piece.

seat.jpg

There is an upholstery shop here in town that I'm going to try and see how much a seat, backrest, and two armrests would be if I provided the treated plywood.

seat.jpg.3b5315ac8dc5bce8fc2ed01d132a4b4d.jpg

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littlemarv

I went and got the tin off of a parts tractor that I picked up from Bear last winter..... should come in handy.The dash on this tractor is cracked and welded. Ray hooked me up with a parts manual and it is hand written in there to weld gussets into this area.

repairs 1.jpg

Well my parts one already has those plus two holes for front and rear work light switches. Score!

repairs 002.jpg

The chrome on the side panels for the grill should clean up O.K. You can't tell very good in the picture but I used a little scotch brite on the right one, the surface rust does come off, now I just need a buffing wheel of some kind.

repairs 003.jpg

This mesh grill has seen better days. You can see the custom points access hole.

repairs 004.jpg

This one, while not true early B-10, will have to do. Much nicer shape!

repairs 005.jpg

Heres the usual steering pivot wear. A little time with the welder will remedy this no problem. I thought about welding a collar on to the back side of the angle iron to increase the wear area once I weld the hole shut and drill it. Maybe a grease zerk would do well here..

repairs 006.jpg

repairs 008.jpg

I also think I'm going to add a grease zerk here for the cluch pedal pivot.

repairs 007.jpg

Next I need to get the seat pan off my donor tractor- the fenders look to be MUCH straighter than the originals.More to come....

57e05d7106f1c_repairs1.jpg.29ee6a89110c17945de2a6f2e789cbad.jpg

57e05d718d17c_repairs002.jpg.c81d79e5971d88d7bea72847816762f9.jpg

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57e05d720c103_repairs007.jpg.315d1ab018056948f4f84b035ce05c29.jpg

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littlemarv

Well, we suddenly got rediculously busy at work so instead of going in on a Saturday to work on my tractor, I've been going in to do -of all things- work. But, I've been sandblasting small pieces here and there-Added a zerk to my clutch pivot

1-27-13 004.jpg

Welded the hole shut, drilled it to 3/4", and added this collar to give it more of a wear surface on the steer axle pivot

1-27-13 001.jpg

The fenders on my donor tractor were smashed flat in the back like they flipped the tractor on its back or backed into something. I didn't get a picture of them before I got them straightened.I have an amazing resource at work- an older fellow who used to own his own body shop. He takes a tiny ballpein hammer and just taps gently on whatever I give him and the metal just unfolds like magic. I swear you could give him a 10" I beam and he could turn it into an exhaust pipe.At any rate, he got the fenders shaped perfect, I think.

1-27-2013.jpg

My original seat and fenders are so bent they measure over 30" across. My donor setup measures 25" and looks much nicer.Next I have to fix the cracks near the BGB mounting holes, and fix the stub shaft on the rear of the steer axle.

57e05d8c5514d_1-27-13004.jpg.313067deae8dce0fae63a0582dbe5e23.jpg

57e05d8c60738_1-27-13001.jpg.5e147dc1eae730a177e647d0372c4956.jpg

1-27-2013.jpg.77f8bc81f6e808626830b49d36b3eb90.jpg

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littlemarv

I welded the hole shut on the front pivot, and re drilled it to 3/4".The original bushing fits in nicely- I won't even have to replace it.

2-2-13 001.jpg

I also added a zerk to the extra collar I welded on. I put on o-ring on either side to hold grease in/dirt out.I built up the stub shaft and ground it smooth.

2-2-13 002.jpg

If you think about it, the weight of the tractor puts "up" pressure on the stub shaft. Pushing a front mounted implement puts even more on it. Pulling a mid mounted attachment puts more on it. So, by rights, the zerk should be on top, but this will be easier to access.At any rate, should last another 49 years. Check back then and I'll let you know.Next I need to repair the BGB end of the frame...

57e05d9981224_2-2-13001.jpg.c1212ec4754422986154889ab0421040.jpg

57e05d9994cf7_2-2-13002.jpg.ca1a9cc3b59596dc88e252821a31bf85.jpg

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GLPointon

Nice work Ryan...I have copied some of the same improvements (grease zirks)but I'm confused, I have 2 B12's and a B210 and they both have the extra collar welded to the axle pivot support bracket (angle iron pc. )from the factory...why didn't yours have one?

quote:Originally posted by littlemarv

I welded the hole shut on the front pivot, and re drilled it to 3/4".The original bushing fits in nicely- I won't even have to replace it.

2-2-13 001.jpg

I also added a zerk to the extra collar I welded on. I put on o-ring on either side to hold grease in/dirt out.I built up the stub shaft and ground it smooth.

2-2-13 002.jpg

If you think about it, the weight of the tractor puts "up" pressure on the stub shaft. Pushing a front mounted implement puts even more on it. Pulling a mid mounted attachment puts more on it. So, by rights, the zerk should be on top, but this will be easier to access.At any rate, should last another 49 years. Check back then and I'll let you know.Next I need to repair the BGB end of the frame...


id="quote">
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