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bowhunt4life

Revitalizer Pics

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bowhunt4life

Does anyone have pictures of a revitalizer on a FDT and how whether you used a old style tiller mule drive to power the revitalizer? I don't own one but am curious on the set up.

Please post or email me.

Thanks,

Chris

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Talntedmrgreen

Chris, here is what I was talking about...are you saying you're trying to run it off the first type of tiller PTO, with the integrated engagement handle? FDT revitalizers had the enagegement handle incorporated inot the unit. Mine is an RBT revitalizer, but my engagement from my tiller fits right on it to convert it to an FDT stye.

IMAG0646.jpg

Here's where I made the swap...Revitalizer in white, tiller in orange. The handle and spring tensioner move right over with no mods. The mounting posts are already there.

IMAG0639.jpg

IMAG0638.jpg

Works amazingly well...

IMAG0640.jpg

IMAG0643.jpg

IMAG0644.jpg

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MysTiK
quote:Originally posted by 427435

So does it really help your lawn?? Do you spread some seed over the lawn first and then run the revitalizer over it?


id="quote">
id="quote">You could seed both before and after the revitalizer. Seeding first would be somewhat 'sacrificial seed'. Generally done after. But the idea is that the seed needs to latch onto some soil, rather than just lie on the surface - which also works but better to have soil coverage. YOu could also do a couple (or more) passes with the revite to effectively create more soil at the surface, to cover the see. (same idea to further destroy what was growing before). Whatever works best for your situation is best. Soil type is a variable also. As usual, "it depends".edit = you could also aerate first. Revitalizer is mainly a shallow surface treatment. With aeration, the revite would break up the cores, creating even more loose soil.etc. etc.

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Kenh

From my time in the Iowa Sports Turf Managers Association.... Seeding before aeration or slicing is OK to do. Very little, if any of the seed will be damaged. The more dirt you can get on top of the seed the better, to a point. We always said "stop aerating when you think you have the grass complete ruined, then hit it one more time"! The recommended aeration for a sports field was 40, 3/4 inch holes per square foot. That is a lot of dirt on top of the ground. In this case we seeded and fertilized after aeration then drug the cores back in.

Using the revitalizer, I would over seed and fertilize, then revitalize the H E double hockey sticks out of it to you have it completely ruined:D

Ken

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MysTiK
quote:Originally posted by Kenh

From my time in the Iowa Sports Turf Managers Association.... Seeding before aeration or slicing is OK to do. Very little, if any of the seed will be damaged. The more dirt you can get on top of the seed the better, to a point. We always said "stop aerating when you think you have the grass complete ruined, then hit it one more time"! The recommended aeration for a sports field was 40, 3/4 inch holes per square foot. That is a lot of dirt on top of the ground. In this case we seeded and fertilized after aeration then drug the cores back in. Using the revitalizer, I would over seed and fertilize, then revitalize the H E double hockey sticks out of it to you have it completely ruined:DKen


id="quote">
id="quote">WOW... !!!How totally and delightfully BRUTAL.!!!!I tend to go the same way. I have said in the past, "I love to torture my lawn". The idea is to create a seething mass of growth potential. Then step back and watch. And maintain a desirable level of moisture.The only thing I can add, is that if you are leaving the cores on the lawn, that some of those cores will survive. The cores are like little micro-lawns - pick up a handful of cores and you will see soil, and also little grass plants still attached to the soil. They are like micro "sod". In fact, at one golf course I worked at, they used cores from a bentgrass green, to create a new green - that green was not part of the course. That green was a source of putting green sod - for the purpose of potentially extensive fast repairs. They planted cores, 4" apart, over a large area, equal to a very large green. Halfway through the project, you could see the bent creeping to form a solid mass of turf.Sometimes nasty vandals would destroy putting greens. Or perhaps, if conditions were right (aka "wrong") a fungus could get out of control and wipe out a green - this could happen virtually overnight, or in a couple of days.Golfers, managers, and owners are extremely demanding - and they control the cash flow. Fix that green asap. If you have a spare green, you strip off the sod, resod the green, and a week later hopefully, it's open for receiving fine long iron shots from 200 yards out. That's golf. Easier said than done - but they also have the equipment, info, and manpower, to make it happen in a day.thank you for sharing that, Kenh. dOdedit = greens aeration itself, was done using a Ryan "GreensAire". Awesome machine does 1/4" holes approx 2" apart and 2+ inches deep. One pass, and you can't see grass anymore. Usually cores removed from greens, then topdressed with sand, dragged in. This fills holes, and leaves a "playable" surface, which restores itself in a few days or a week to full coverage. The golfers only whine for a few days. 8)It's another world - mowing height approaching 1/8" - mowed daily, at least once. Intensive irrigation, fertilizer, fungicide - high maintenance. high scrutiny. constant paranoia and stress. Mainly stoloniferous bentgrass but poa annua management is required - a constant invader due to seed production at any height!! With this info, a home lawn is easy. But the experiments are fun - torture it. :D

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RayS

My experience with this attachment is to slice then over seed. The seeds fall into the slices that are cut or a lot do any way then rake the surface and the seed is covered. It seems to only germinate in the grooves or slices so I try to go at a 45 degree to the previous cut. I have had excellent results with this.

I was about to sell the revitalizer this Summer then the drought killed the Kentucky blue grass I planted 5 or 6 years ago. So I planted a thin blade tall fescue that is in the rest of the yard. No more kentucky blue grass for me. It has to be water more frequently than I am willing or it dies. Fesue is a lot more drought resistant.

I am by no means a turf expert but have been using this attachment since I bought it from Bill at Sandy Lake Implement 10 or 12 years ago.

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Kenh

Nice thick turf will cut your chemical usage also. At the turf farm at Iowa State University they PLANNED to test a new post emergence herbicide for crab grass. They picked a nice plot of grass and seeded crab grass seed on the plot. Long story short... The plot had such thick lush grass the seed never made it to the soil and 99% never grew!

The test was a bust but proved how a good stand of grass is beneficial.

OK... back on topic:I

Ken

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RayS

I will be keeping it. You know this global warming thing that is such a popular topic with the government so that they can get a carbon tax. I may need to use it again. I don`t like to use the sprinkler for the fear we may run out of water for future generations, but there is always beer and soda pop.

Chris, if I run across one I will let you know.

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timflury
quote:Originally posted by RayS

I will be keeping it. You know this global warming thing that is such a popular topic with the government so that they can get a carbon tax. I may need to use it again. I don`t like to use the sprinkler for the fear we may run out of water for future generations, but there is always beer and soda pop.Chris, if I run across one I will let you know.


id="quote">
id="quote">The thing with beer and soda,,, They're made from water.;):D;):D

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MysTiK

I have a huge rainbarrel. I have been casually researching pumps; and I still don't know anything about them. I just need a little pump that can push water through a hose and sprinkler, or even a DIY sprinkler system w some cheap heads and some pvc. This should be easy.

The rainbarrel, I don't know where it came from; came with the house; but they get used for a lot of things, it seems. It's a cube, with a simple tubing basket frame on it, it has a roughly 2" ballvalve, and it's approx-ish 3'x3'x4'. An eavestrough fills it. I use it for my pressure washer, just on gravity feed. But that won't drive a sprinkler; even tho the back lawn is downhill from all of it. It just runs out the hose. Need pressure. With this I am diverting water from the ground runoff; and then returning it to the ground. Net usage zero.

So there should be lots of water left for beer, and especially for good scotch - but that comes from another part of the world. I wonder if I am affecting scotch production. With scotch, it's the local water that determines the unique taste and qualities of a good single malt. So I guess it's ok.

Now, THAT is really important. 8D

Every now and then TSC has a sale on pumps - I keep missing it.

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