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littlemarv

BGB condition

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littlemarv

When I hold the input shaft on my BGB, the pulleys on either side move 1/16" measured at the outside of the left pulley. To me that seems acceptable, even VERY acceptable. While I have it out I was just going to pop the cover off, inspect the internals, and replace the seals if I can get them. Anything else to look out for? The seals don't leak to the point of dripping, but are seeping.

I know Mr. Pointon had a great thread that went to tech tips where his total rebuild cost around $100 I think. Considering how I'm restoring this tractor on a budget of $0 DOLLARS AND 0 CENTS I'm not going to give it the full treatment unless I find big chunks or water inside....

Thanks!

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rokon2813

Seals are about 8 bucks or so each from Jacks Small Engine.

With the old seals in hand, or the dimensions you may get them cheaper locally.

Not sure where you got your part numbers in the other thread, but I couldn't do anything with those numbers.

I used numbers for an early Landlord, which is the same as an early B10.

you can go here,

http://www.simplicitymfg.com/manuals/index.cfm?rd=1

and get the parts list for a 990314 and all your parts should be those numbers.

then go here and input the part numbers to get prices

http://www.jackssmallengines.com/index.html

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MysTiK

Change the oil and run it. New oil is regular maintenance anyway. Say thank you and move on to other more pressing issues. Lucky you.

Mine was a mess - but still ran - altho it started to leak badly - and then I was getting grinding, and squeaking, and all those awful noises you just don't want to hear.

I went in with bearings and seals. And thanks much, I had a mechanic friend who had done a bunch. He had the other SURPRISE parts for mine - shafts, bevel gears - you don't want to buy those. Ended up being a major rebuild, and thanks to him, I got away easy. I knew what it could have cost me. I paid him with my 716-6 'parts tractor' no engine - he really wanted that - so we were both happy.

Mine had 2 inches of slack - shafts grooved, bevel gears worn badly. Amazing it still ran. Last usage of the old one, I just topped the oil and went mowing - it peed out the oil in one session.

Change your oil - and enjoy it. Mine takes gear oil.

edit = the 2" of slack I mentioned, was measured by holding drive shaft at front, and measuring 2+" on the outer perimeter of the cone clutch.

Also, my cone clutch was replaced.

I think it was PhanDad, or Ray, who said "I don't know how it's still running".

Also, the first sign of disaster was a several months previous, under heavy load of dump trailer full of firewood, and pulling uphill, tires barely holding traction, a quick but loud shreak emitted from "somewhere". In the end, I knew exactly where that shreak came from. These are pretty darned tough tractors - they even run when they shouldn't. OO

Recently, I did a similar pull - no problem, just wish I had tire chains on. dOd

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