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superbman101

How Shinny/Smooth can you make your paint job?

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superbman101

I've always paint my tractors with spray and pray paint :pThis last project I took more time than normal wet sanding 600 grit on the base-coat and then 1500 grit on the clear. Buffing compound to bring out the shine.In the end not to bad for spray cans I think sm01

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Nothing Like watching the Packers game and buffing the hood

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Finished product

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JoggerFogger

I like it very much.

So what's your technique/formula?

Do you wet sand the primer? Is your "base" coat the same as "primer"?

How many layers of color did you use?

Did you buy matte or glossy color? does it matter if you're going to sand/clear coat?

I honestly think a guy can get a really good finished product with rattle cans (obviously you did it).

If your technique is a secret, I understand :D

-Kevin

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superbman101
quote:Originally posted by JoggerFogger

I like it very much.So what's your technique/formula?Do you wet sand the primer? Is your "base" coat the same as "primer"?How many layers of color did you use?Did you buy matte or glossy color? does it matter if you're going to sand/clear coat?I honestly think a guy can get a really good finished product with rattle cans (obviously you did it).If your technique is a secret, I understand :D-Kevin


id="quote">
id="quote">Thanks for all the kind words! sm01Prep1. Sand the part down to the bare metalPrime2. 2 layers of primer3. Use body filler (Bondo Professional Glazing & Spot Putty)3. Dry Sand 220 grit the bondo and any rough spots4. 1 more layer of primer5. Dry sand 360 gritPaint (Base color)6. 2 layers of Old Caterpillar Yellow7. WET sand with 600 grit8. 1-2 more layer of yellow9. Wet sand 600 gritClear-coat10. 2-3 Layers Clear-coat11. Wet sand 1500 grit12. Rubbing compound and buff 3 times over full passes over partThen Decal it up :pHope this helps guys!

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superbman101
quote:Originally posted by fishnwiz

Smooth as a babies behind...real nice! I wish I would have had a hood to polish. Then I would NOT of had to waste my time watching that game!yell


id="quote">
id="quote">I hear you! they played like crap sm00 maybe next year :Y

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huffy

The only way that I could ever get my paint that smooth and shiny is if I hired someone to do it for me.

BTW, I really dig the wood floors, flat screen tv, and oak tool cabinet in your workshop. sm06

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superbman101
quote:Originally posted by PGL

I can see why you keep it inside and put that nice shiny yellow furniture on the rough wood furniture/


id="quote">
id="quote">I try too keep as many parts inside as I can in the basement (have a dehumidifier down there) while im going through and rebuilding them. The paint cures better I've found. Especially in the winter Indian's humidity is unforgiving to paint that's fresh.

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Brettw

It does look great. But it asks a question. Are you looking for an accurate original restoration? I see guys on here, $100+ for decals, $100+ for hood bolts, $100+ for mufflers, etc, etc, etc. You could have close to a grand just in misc stuff, that has nothing to do with functionality! So the restoration angle is the key. However, I recall reading about true restorers of the old Mopar cars. Challengers, Chargers, etc. And they actually allowed runs in the paint. On purpose. Because the original cars had such a crappy paint job from the factory, they mimicked it to be absolutely correct!

So yes, better than new, shiny as all get out, looks absolutely great, but then asks the question; is it for a pure restoration, or just to do a really great job?

Either way, can I send you my sheet metal for finishing? :D

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superbman101

Thanks Brett for the feedback. Yes I have seen some people on here spend $100's in extra parts and decal. I think that's a waste if money to be honest. I bought the Big Ten w/ deck and blade for under one hundred :P the decals I bought yes because I think that it gives it that final touch. Only forty dollars from maple for those. Top to bottom with new mag, points, carb kit, paint, and decals I'm only in two hundred. For 300 and the cost of my time, which it's a hobby so free :P, I'd say I make of for cheap.

Best things are made with a lot of time and diligence. That's all I really put into these old work horses sm01

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superbman101
quote:Originally posted by RayS

Not to burst any bubbles but if you have an air compressor it is cheaper to use a paint gun.


id="quote">
id="quote">I bet it is sadly sm00 But i have always done it this way. I buy cans in bulk and get them for a decent price about 3 dollars a can. sm01How much would a can for my gun run? I've never looked

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RayS

You can get a quart of old cat yellow for less than $10 at John Deere. A gallon for $30. How many spray cans equal a quart of undiluted paint. Thinned out you get more plus the hardener. I use Benjamin Moore epoxy primer it is a two part system. Thinned 20% you get over two gallons. Up to 2-1/2 gallons. You can beat on this with a hammer without chipping. It is better than the allayed enamel paint. Two part urethane would be better paint and Omni base coat - clear coat would probably be better yet for the paint. I can get Simplicity paint from John Deere cheaper than I can get it from a Simplicity dealer:D! I wonder why so many dealers are going out of business?

I have primed 3 tractors and 4 attachments with the Benjamin Moore epoxy primer. I still have enough to do my tiller.

AGCO and John Deere Paint are bot made by Valspar. It is excellent paint. Dries faster than the bugs can land in it. I wouldn`t even try the TSC junk. Slow drying and I just bought a sprat can of the Magic paint and it takes a week to dry. TSC only done this because it was cheaper, but I will never buy another can.

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MysTiK

Well, thanks Bryan; I think this is a very helpful and informative thread on paint generally. I also do appreciate the info Ray is offering.

The only paint project I have planned is to hopefully get my deck painted in Spring. My tractor is all original paint; nothing scheduled for that - yet.

Deck gets beat up a lot, scraped along edges, etc. I just am tired of the kinda rusty top surface. Metal is mainly good, or good enough.

But I like the explained, detailed technique here, with the separate coats, products used, sanding details, etc. That's a lot of stuff.

I have a compressor and a paint gun. They were left in my garage by the P.O. Compressor needs a little tuning. Sprayer looks good; but haven't tried it.

But I don't paint much, so far. And I worry about toxicity. I need a decent mask. It would be nice to see a thread on safety, masks, etc. with a particular focus on relatively small projects, paint booths, whatever people find useful or what works; cos those chemicals are all the same, no matter rattlecans, spraygun, or gallons. Actually the details vary - but it's mostly all toxic - read the MSDS Sheet.

I need a basic mask and an outdoor area; for occasional projects, mostly really small stuff. Even tiny things I have painted - I end up smelling paint all day, and maybe the next day. Bigger projects can get into chronic exposure; so the equipment really matters.

But I really like the spelled out details of this How To technique. I could take this and add outrageous more more more fine spray coats, spend a lot of time sanding, more coats, forever - and do Show tractor. but this is a great simplification of that enormous task. So thanks for sharing.

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JoggerFogger

I would love to learn more about spraying with a gun. Seems like I'm always doing a project and wishing I had better equipment for painting.

I have a spray gun that came with my compressor or tool set...Not sure where I got it, but I do know that it's junky junkster.

How much do you need to spend to get a decent gun? $600 and I'll probably figure out how to make rattle cans work. $60 I might go for it. Then I'd have to learn all about mixing paint. I guess I'm down for that.

-Kevin

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Talntedmrgreen

A lot of folks use the cheapy guns from Harbor Freight...I do, and it's a wonderful tool. It was under $20, I'm pretty sure.

The first time I used a gun, and found the benefits of mixing my paint with hardener, was the last time I used a rattle can, cept for touchups. My restorations with a can simply don't hold up like a paint with hardener. I even use some of the Rustoleum paints I like the color of, but add in hardener, 16:1. Paint dries enough to handle in just a few hours, vs days or weeks with a rattle can. It also come out much glossier. You can really cover some ground with a gun...and the coverage is much more even.

The only drawback to a gun, is cleaning. And that sucks. No option for a real quick shot of paint, when you find yourself with 5 minutes of free time in the shop. Most times mixing paint and cleaning stuff takes twice as long as painting everything.

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ngale65

well those are the same pains i use. ill have to add the clear. im going to try to add a pic of the deck i did. still working on all the other parts, but it laid out like glass. was pretty happy.

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MysTiK
quote:Originally posted by Talntedmrgreen

A lot of folks use the cheapy guns from Harbor Freight...I do, and it's a wonderful tool. It was under $20, I'm pretty sure. The first time I used a gun, and found the benefits of mixing my paint with hardener, was the last time I used a rattle can, cept for touchups. My restorations with a can simply don't hold up like a paint with hardener. I even use some of the Rustoleum paints I like the color of, but add in hardener, 16:1. Paint dries enough to handle in just a few hours, vs days or weeks with a rattle can. It also come out much glossier. You can really cover some ground with a gun...and the coverage is much more even.The only drawback to a gun, is cleaning. And that sucks. No option for a real quick shot of paint, when you find yourself with 5 minutes of free time in the shop. Most times mixing paint and cleaning stuff takes twice as long as painting everything.


id="quote">
id="quote">My uncle used to emphasize cleaning - and thorough cleaning - and doing it asap. The alternative is all kinds of problems w gun not working properly, drips, slobbers, goobers, or just jammed, etc. The one I found in my garage is at least clean - a good sign.But all that care and attention - a strong argument for rattle can.I find sprayguns to be pretty amazing. Buddy had one that he could set to spray extremely light coats, like mist. He had to do a lot of coats to get coverage - he was into show cars, full bore. DonZ Wheels of Time, Calgary, AB. Talk about restos. He'd find some rusty 1930's wreck and turn it into - what would you like? $$$$$ He had a catalogue full of them. Outrageous. I remember being intro'd to his dog; there was a reason for that.Not a fair comparison - just a wowee little side note.http://www.donz.ca/index.html

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