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rfsmith1952

T-12 Carburetor

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rfsmith1952

The Homelite T-12 hydro (simp/allis 3415) stopped and refused to start. Poured a little gas in the carb and it would run till that was gone. Gas is coming freely from the tank and thru the filter. So I took the carb off, took it apart and cleaned it. All the internals look good, but I have no experience with carbs. So..rebuild or just put it back together and try it? Also, I don't see any numbers on it, can anyone supply a manufacturer, part number, model number and maybe a source for the rebuild kit? Engine is 12hp Briggs and StrattonThanksBob

T-12Carb.jpg

T-12Carb.jpg.07e08cafbb1b30d94b0c4cb9955bd826.jpg

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fishnwiz

Getting a carb kit should be as easy as jotting down the engine serial numbers that are located on the shrouds of the engine. The B&S numbers will be stamped into the tins, sometimes in an obscure location but they are there.Most times the carbs do not have there own numbers.

IMO as long as you have this carb torn down this far, I would go for a complete kit. There are a few other makers of kits other then Briggs and sometimes they are a little more complete with extra parts. Stens is a maker of a lot of duplicate OEM kits and most times are a lot cheaper. Take your numbers into your local small engine /parts dealer and they can match the kit you need with the carb.I always take along the carb to compare the parts you are buying to be sure they match. This will save you having to make a second run to return an incorrect kit or parts.

Another method would be to take the same serial numbers you get off of the engine and do a Google search for that engine. Parts tree is one source that will have factory diagrams of the carb in question on their site. Then it is as simple as looking up the parts you need and ordering either individual or a full kit for your carb. Most time a kit is cheaper. Just be sure that you replace ALL gaskets including the intake gasket as you do NOT want any air excess leaking into your setup.

When you get to reassembly, the initial settings for for carb are here on this site!

One last option is after you get look up the parts numbers on parts tree, you can do an ebay search for the kit you need as a lot of times they are available at a real cheap price.

Best of luck!

Wiz

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rfsmith1952

You guys are a hoot. Mark, thanks for the direction. Ray, Nando Gomes sent me the 12hp Briggs parts list, but the service manual would be great. Thanks. I've been waiting for a shot at the carb since I got the tractor. Not much snow here in Central PA, and the T-10 is the plow machine anyway. Thanks again. I'm sure I'll be back for more advice on this issue!

Bob

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JimDk

Bob,

Those carbs are very simple in operation. The tiny holes should be open in the side of the emulsion tube ( the long brass thing that is tough to remove ). After a good cleaning, the only other part that would stop fuel flow completely, is the needle valve. That's the little pointy part that attaches to the float. Replace the needle with the same type. Looks like you have the plastic tipped one. Check the float level after installing the needle and float. Turn the top carb body upside down, the top of the float should be parallel with the mating surface of the carb. If it is not, carefully bend the little tab that contacts the needle until it is level. Turn the carb over and watch the needle. It should move away from the seat when the float falls. The needle valve seat needs to be clean and smooth, also.

This may not be by the "book", but it works for me.

Jim

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