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B112_son

Allis 716H

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B112_son

Hello, I'm looking at an allis 716H and there are some things that are concerning me. First off its an earlier model with the pod lights. In the picture the seller sent it has a yellow deck from a B series mounted on it. They said they use it to mow so I was wondering how different the decks are. Can I paint it and get by or should I be factoring in finding the right deck? Also they said the engine smokes when starting but otherwise runs ok. My only experience with these tractors is with the B-series so I'm not sure what all to look for on these. Can anyone help with issues to look for? The body itself looks nice with original paint an decals. It has silver front wheels from something newer and the correct working rear tiller. I can get it for $375 but it's 2 hours away so I'd to have basis covered before I travel. I'm wanting a good running hydro for weekly mowing.

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rokon2813

The main differences in the decks are the B deck would have a smaller drive pulley. If they did not change the pulley, you will have more blade speed.

Since the 716 has running boards, the deck height adjusters on a B deck will be under those, not set wide enough, so you probably can't lift the deck.

Otherwise, it will function fine.

The asking price pays for the tiller and deck, you get the tractor free. Thats a pretty good price.

As for issues to look for before buying. Pretty much the same as a B or any other tractor, bevel gear box, axle tube cracks, steering play etc.

The 716 will have a cone clutch that your not used to. It should engage the deck solidly, usually with a chirp or quick squeal when it locks in, that is normal. If it doesn't then the clutch material may be getting thin.

Check that cone for wobble or looseness, they do wear on the inside, ie bearing, shaft, key etc.

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RayS

The deck will hit the running boards if lifted but I used mine that way for about 3 years until I swapped the lower roller bar assembly. I cut my grass at maximum height so I really have no use for the adjusters.

As far as the pulley issue on center arbor I have always used the FDT 4-1/2" pulley on my 48" deck for 7100 - 900 series tractor and 4" on my 42" deck with the one piece arbors.

The cone clutch pulley is 5" and so is the non cone clutch models or very close to 5". It doesn't speed it up that much if at all. I know they slowed them down going to the larger pulley on the two piece arbors, but that probably was over some government baby sitter, nanny state issue.

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B112_son

Thanks for the help. What do you guys think about the engine smoking on start up? I don't know much of anything about the kolher's. Also, the silver front wheels. I'm assuming off of something newer like a deutz or simplicity. Size wise they look correct but I wasn't sure if there was difference in the center size and the bearings.

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RayS

Smoke on start up could be rich fuel mixture from choke. If it is oil on start up it will be oil at operating temperature. Color of rims don`t matter you can paint them. They used basically the same spindle and bearing combination from the 60`s until they stopped production in 2000 or 2001. 3/4" spindle and tapered roller bearings.

I remove these and use a sealed ball bearing on mind for the past 10 years. Actually the deck bearings 108202. Not a problem yet and no grease all over the place they fit in the front rims perfectly.

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fishnwiz

Smoke on start up has not been a real big issue on the tractors I have owned. Unless the tractor is using a large amount of oil, it is a non issue in my book. Most times after the engine warms up a little, the smoke will go away. Sometimes if you run a small amount of Sea Foam in the gas, it may clear up the smoke issue if a ring is stuck.,otherwise you could always do a quick compression check if you still have concerns. Most auto zone stores near me will lend out a compression tester free of charge, then it as easy as removing the spark plug, screwing in the gauge and cranking the engine over.

As far as tires go, as long as rims don't have any wobble or play in them and the inside of the rims don't hit or rub anywhere when the steering is turned all the way in either direction, you should be ok.

Price is right...offer 350.00 cash and see what happens.

Best of luck.

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MysTiK

Smoke startup likely choke; or carb settings too rich. Tweaking carb jets /leaner, helped mine smoke less. Mine smokes a little if it idles a short while, and then I hit the gas at about 1/3 throttle. Mine uses very little oil - I add an ounce of two in a week or two, depends on usage. I don't consider this significant.

Mine was blackblackblack oil when I bought. Couple changes, clean. Spec is SAE 30 for warm season. I switched to 15w40 diesel oil w no problems, I like the 40number cos they can run hot. Also when I tweaked the carb to get rid of the 'rich' setts, it seemed to run cooler; which surprised me.

Kohler K341 16hp has a sticker that says ACR automatic compression release - dunno if you can compress check w that.

They like choke to start. or if warm, don't touch anything just turn key. Starts well cold w choke. Push brake pedal down for less load on starter. NEVER use the brake pedal on a hydro running.

As said, 375 w a tiller - buy it and give him a kiss. Also you could likely use or find a new deck, sell the B-model. whatever if it works ok.

Pod lights - see tek tips for halogen solution. if needed. I like pods image.

check bgb - grab driveshaft, move cone clutch - any play is bad. But a bgb is a common repair, then good for decades.

Take a rag and look at axle tubes.

Play in front steers - yeh, it's old. Expect some.

If there's a hill nearby, see if hydro can hold the downhill - excluding traction issues - but it should control the tractor. Can also make it crawl up a hill - they like engine speed at least half. It can't perform the hydro without engine speed to make hydro power.

Change all fluids, grease as per manual, oil anything that moves. Use best gas, ethanol sux. or keep it extra fresh - difficult to do. I use premium usually.

Treat it with respect. And talk to it - and listen to what HE says. Check behind the front grille - it's a boy! sm01

I love mine.

worst case scenario - everything fails - part it out.

Having a parts tractor can be handy if you have space.

buy it. (yes, I am biased. I don't see how you can lose on this).

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MysTiK

Re: Manual for 716H.

Download Here: http://www.simplicitymfg.com/manuals/

Early model MFR is 1690014

and Simp/Manuals responds with

"700 Series - GT Yard & Garden Tractors - Model # 1690014"

However,

what actually downloads is:

A Briggs/Simplicity 7016 Manual = MFR = 1690006 8)

Same tractor, different engine.

and

www.simpletractors.com confirms tractor equivalence in XREF:

but it's a Briggs, not a Kohler. So no Kohler info is available there.

AFAIK, there's not much difference in tractors through the entire 700-series from late 1974 through early 1979, other than the obvious known styling changes, such as hood, pods, lights, grille, black paint on lowers. And a really cool AC-CREST which I will trade my kingdom for - I want one. 8D

BUT mechanically, they seem pretty much identical, through the entire 700-series.

I would suggest you download the wonderful manual by a company called Allis Chalmers, and that manual is all AC.id="blue"> It covers all models of the socalled late-model 700-series tractors.

It should work fine. The manual has unique information, and a unique way of presenting info in good detail. It has a definite AC taste - and Kohler info also, which is good.

or

If you like, you could also get the Simp 7016H manual, and compare - you will see a big difference. (And a lot less info. IMHO)

Use MFR = 1690211 = to get the manual for entire late-model 700-series.id="blue">

[but your actual MFR, is = 1690014 =] for parts reference.

(assuming you buy the beast).

And you could do some reading before you go view also.

Note also: Kohler website has free manuals for their engines.

such as this one which should be a "Kohler K341s", assuming original engine not replaced. See tags on engine. Operator's and Service Manuals are both available. I have them. Those manuals have engine code translations for exactly dating your traxtor.

or

You can BUY a brigg manual :J if you like to support huge corporations. Caution: you might become a Kohler fan. :D

The tractor you are viewing should have a Sundstrand 15 Hydro. dOd There's a pix of that on simpletractors.com also. They are largely considered to be bulletproof. I recently did a fluid change using the detailed procedure outlined in the AC Manual, had no problems. I also substituted a larger filter from NAPA. I forget the number, but can find it if desired - it was an older style Ford filter, approx 20% greater capacity, (longer), same micron specs, etc.

Hope all this is helpful; and not just info overload. Take what you need.

cheers.

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MysTiK
quote:Originally posted by goatfarmer

The filter I used on my 712H was a Purolator PER1A, the same filter used on Ford V8 engines for many years.


id="quote">
id="quote">Yup. The numbers cross to various brands.Purolator, Baldwin, Hastings, etc.Mine is Wix 51515 or Napa 1515 Oil Filterhttp://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=122949Both the above are 21 micron; and I assume Kenny's is also. Micron is measure of fine filtration; and 21 micron meets the spec for Sundstrand hydro filters.

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