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ngale65

Rear wheel weight idea

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ngale65

Well, some of you may have already figured this out. But new to me, so i thought i'd share. I took a set of wheelhorse 50lb wheel weights, bolted them to the back side of my hb212 rear rims. was still able to use the original style on the outside and now i have 75ish lbs of weight per rear wheel. For those of you running hubcaps, here is a way to have hubcaps and weights. Here are some pics. I do have 2 sets of these and will be selling 1 if anyone is interested.

WEIGHT1.jpg

WEIGHT2.jpg

WEIGHTONWHEEL.jpg

WEIGHTTOP.jpg

WEIGHTSREAR.jpg

WEIGHTS DONE.jpg

WEIGHT1.jpg.2147b67cc62c70c74e8abc4365fc828f.jpg

WEIGHT2.jpg.2daf831cf0600ac4e691bbeeb9258abf.jpg

WEIGHTONWHEEL.jpg.222f8c2488b24413d844d0c8c4623feb.jpg

WEIGHTTOP.jpg.c88f06539a34f66a8af6f5d9fb3e727a.jpg

WEIGHTSREAR.jpg.03631be2e524beb75460feca961877e4.jpg

57e0576341185_WEIGHTSDONE.jpg.7659b564e67d1e94056b87c3b69ea228.jpg

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Talntedmrgreen

I tend to go conservative on weight, to preserve the previously mentioned trans/axle components, but wheels are certainly the way to go if you can. Just keep it in mind, and don't hammer the direction changes (easy to do on the hydros), and things should be fine. If you don't have a slope to battle, weight really isn't needed for running a blower though. For pushing with a blade it can go a long way to helping maintain momentum.

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Talntedmrgreen

Yeah, that would be about all you need. I have 50# per side in wheel weights, and it's not enough for a bucket load with my arse on the seat. I added 120# to the back and no problems, so somewhere in between would be fine.

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acfarmer

I have a about 200lbs on each rear wheel of my 9020 and add about

300lbs to the weight box when using the snowblower on my Ariens GT 18 and never had any problems with either.Also how much one weighs needs to be considered as some garden tractors running with no weights can weigh much more than some weighted down with weights(LOL)

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huffy

I like the idea. But, the prices that people are trying to charge for those wheel weights is beyond ridiculous. So, I'll stick with loading the tires with ww fluid, which costs less than $20.

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Brettw

I am of the tendency to agree with those commenting here; keep the load off of the axles, bearings, frame, etc. This is "unsprung" weight, as it were.

However, there are a number of others who would disagree, pullers amongst them. They speak of the inertia from rotating weight, and then using the trans and gears to start and stop that inertia.

Not sure if there is any one "right" answer, but there are two distinctly different opinions on this subject.

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HubbardRA

I prefer not to use wheel weights. The inertial of spinning up the heavy wheel weights can contribute heavily to breakage of the torque tube.

I use hang-on weights. Yes, they do put more loading on the bearings. With hang-ons I do not put them on the tractor unless I need them and then remove them when they are not needed, since they just hang on the rack and do not require any bolting.

I use AG tires and do not find that I need much added weight with those tires. I have never used chains with the AG tires. I always have to use chains with turf tires on snow.

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