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huffy

Carb Question

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huffy

I'm having trouble with the carb on the 12hp Briggs 300421 in my loader tractor. I tried rebuilding it, but it still doesn't work very well. I'd like to get a new one. I saw the carb below listed on eBay. It says that it will fit my motor. But, I noticed that the linkage for the choke cable is on the wrong side, and isn't configured the same way as the one on my current carb.

Is it possible to switch the linkage to the other side? And, if I do so, will that linkage work, or can it be changed out with the linkage on my current carb?

Thanks.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/GENUINE-OEM-BRIGGS-AND-STRATTON-Flo-Jet-Carburetor-Assembly-392587-FREE-SHIPPING-/310372252371?_trksid=p5197.m1992&_trkparms=aid%3D111000%26algo%3DREC.CURRENT%26ao%3D1%26asc%3D14136%26meid%3D5055477574573540047%26pid%3D100015%26prg%3D1085%26rk%3D1%26sd%3D310372252371%26

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RayS

The briggs part number on a 12hp for the upper carb body assembly is 299687 and is $32 at Jacks. The lower body usually doesn`t go bad unless the threading for the nozzel is destroyed.

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BLT

I don't know if you have enough slack to bring your cable around or you can use your old shaft if it is not badly worn and re-use choke plate. Take note on which way plate is installed as the edge of the plate is angled so you can't jam it in the carb bore. If not use Briggs P/N 298622 Shaft or whatever that supersedes to and in either case , you'll need welch plug 221747 to replace the one you'll destroy getting to shaft and choke plate. On welch plug use only the Briggs part as the aftermarket ones I have seen are JUNK and hard to re-seat. To reset new plug, a golf ball makes a good installation tool. A good tap with a carpenters hammer should give you the indentation required to give you a good seal. And a bead of Seal All won't hurt either.

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RayS

I believe all you have to do is remove the screws from choke valve and pull the shaft out and install from the other side. If the choke cable is long enough you should beable to use as is. The cable is on the outside of my 916H.

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Talntedmrgreen

A reroute of the cable would be easy enough, and if it's not long enough, and you feel like trying, aux choke/throttle cables can be picked up cheap at any auto parts store and trimmed to fit. That's what I've done, but only during reassembly of machines...when it was already apart to install a new cable.

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fishnwiz

I have no experience with changing over linkage but want to ask you if you think at that price, if your not better buying a used original? You could buy 3 used with kits for that price.

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huffy
quote:Originally posted by fishnwiz

You could buy 3 used with kits for that price.


id="quote">
id="quote">I bought a rebuild kit for the carb that's on there now this summer. Cost over $40 from the dealer. And, frankly, I'm just tired of forever fiddling with it to try to get it to work right. I'd rather just get a new one. I rebuilt the carb in my 2012 (same carb) and have never had a problem with it. I did the one in the B12 2 months later, and it has still never worked properly. I think the problem is that the nozzle's not seating properly. But, again, I'm just tired of fooling with it.

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fishnwiz

I understand where you are coming from. I just worry about some of the china stuff that is out there. I have had my share of bad luck with some of the eBay stuff...Non adjustable, Plastic floats and fittings ect..While some of the original stuff may end up like your carb and be non adjustable, most of the stuff when set up correctly is still the best way to go IMO. Just hate to see you drop that kind of money on something that may or may not fix your problem. Best of luck.

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huffy
quote:Originally posted by Kenh

Is the carb flooding when the engine is stopped?


id="quote">
id="quote">Yes, despite my several attempts to get the float valve adjusted right. But, the leaking onto the floor I can live with. I just shut the in-line fuel valve off before I shut the tractor off.The bigger problem is that it takes forever for the tractor to start. I have to crank it for a long time before it'll finally start. I pulled the spark plug, and noticed that it's wet. So, I think the carb's letting gas leak into the cylinder while the tractor's sitting. Again, I've fiddled with the float valve several times, checked to make sure the float is adjusted to sit "level," etc, but can't get it to stop. I don't want to have to pull the plug and dry it every time I go to start the tractor, and I'm sure that having to crank it long enough for the plug to dry out isn't good for the SG. I'm sure that someone more experienced like Ray, BLT, etc, could figure it out and fix it relatively easily. But, I'm evidently doing something wrong and am out of patience. So, I think I'm going to try one of the NOS ones.

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fishnwiz
quote:Originally posted by RayS

It say it is OEM. Did I miss something?


id="quote">
id="quote">I did not know that OEM carbs came with plastic floats and fittings?? I bought same type carb a few years ago (marketed as OEM Briggs) but NOT from same dealer and there is NO way it was a Briggs carb as casting fit and finish was horrible... it was a china knock off...JUNK! I saw the red flags when I received the carb and it did not come in Briggs packing as the one in the picture on the ad and did not look the same at all.. I have not seen that seller as of late as Ebay ran him off!. Just wanted buyer to beware as I have seen knockoffs sold as OEM more then one time on ebay! There has been more then one occasion when I bought an item marked OEM Kohler or Briggs and the item was pictured with both manufactures packing and received Stens or some other off brand!

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BLT

Well Briggs engines, mainly cast iron ones, have been made in China for a least twenty years thanks to our EPA. Anyway E-mail the guy to demand a factory carton picture as Briggs never and I mean never sold parts in bulk and unpackaged. It would have destroyed any form of warranty they could honor. If he can't then turn him into Ebay as selling OEM parts under false advertising.

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fishnwiz

Great tips BLT. Checking feedback is another great way to weed these guys out! If I remember right, the guy I had bought from was a newbie and again, this should have raised a red flag and it was my fault I was ripped off!

There is so much reverse engineering going on in china, it makes Ebay ripe for distribution of these poor quality knockoffs of everything from car parts to antiques!.

I did notice that there was a warranty available on the OEM carb in question so that is a plus.The fact that the seller has excellent feedback and has sold over 7K items is also a plus!

I am NOT trying to lecture here so sorry if it comes across that way....just trying to be helpful and save people money! :I

I am done on this subject.

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rokon2813
Originally posted by huffy
quote:
id="quote">I've had a few that start that way, never did get them right, but never tried real hard either.What I do, is stand beside them to start them, after they start cranking, hold the carb closed, idle position and they start right up.You might have to "feather" it a bit to get it to come up to running speed once it starts, but works for me every time.Just a thought.I honestly think they are either sucking air somewhere, or more likely low compression.

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huffy

The good news: I traded some venison sausage to a friend of mine for another top that's in good shape, so hopefully that one will work better.

The bad news, when I took the carb off to change tops I left the choke/throttle cables dangling from the dash to the floor. After swapping the carb tops at the bench I walked back over to the tractor to re-mount the carb. I accidentally stepped on the choke cable and kinked it. Then I broke it trying to straighten it back out. I just bought that throttle/choke setup about 2 months ago to replace another one that I broke. I guess that's what I get for being in a hurry. Oh well. Stupid is, stupid does.

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chris87

i had running starting problems with my 10hp briggs. rebuilt it still nothing then i looked at the 90 degree pipe from carb to engine and noticed no gaskets put 2 new gaskets in. mine had a plate between the pipe and head. runs great starts great.

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Kenh

Sorry for not getting back sooner...

Many times the emulsion tube will leak where it seats way up in the bore. Brigs has a short video in the repair. You remove the threads on your current tube and use it with some lapping compound to lap the seat. Then you take your new tube and put a small rubber or plastic washer on the tube and reinstall. The leaking seat is below the fuel level in the carb causing it to dump fuel into the intake. I have one at home with the same symptoms. If somebody has access to the service shorts (there is a short video on fixing the problem) on the Briggs web site maybe they can provide a link. My video viewing is blocked here at work.

Ken

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huffy
quote:Originally posted by Kenh

Sorry for not getting back sooner...Many times the emulsion tube will leak where it seats way up in the bore. Brigs has a short video in the repair. You remove the threads on your current tube and use it with some lapping compound to lap the seat. Then you take your new tube and put a small rubber or plastic washer on the tube and reinstall. The leaking seat is below the fuel level in the carb causing it to dump fuel into the intake. I have one at home with the same symptoms. If somebody has access to the service shorts (there is a short video on fixing the problem) on the Briggs web site maybe they can provide a link. My video viewing is blocked here at work. Ken


id="quote">
id="quote">Thank you. I'll search for the video when I get a chance. In the meantime, if someone can provide the link I would very much appreciate it.

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toomanytractors

Chris: Try what rokon said about holding the throttle closed when starting. Make sure you pull the choke. When the throttle shaft and bushings wear the engine will suck air and not start.

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JoggerFogger
Originally posted by huffy
quote:
id="quote">Huffy,I hear you on wanting to buy a new carb, but I have to agree that making the one you have work is the better option. (my opinion)Do I have all these symptoms right?:- Hard start- leaks fuel- wet spark- float set but leaking.Here's what I think is happening: A. you turn on the gas at the petcock.B. fuel starts flowing past the float valve with the bowl filled to the rim.C. Fuel spills into the venturi and either goes into the engine or on the floor.D. If you turn the engine long enough, it dries out the venturi, valves, piston, spark, and fires. Here's what I would do: 1. take apart the carb again. (I'm sure you've done this 8 times now, so it should be a snap)2. get a Q-Tip and some toothpaste and stick it in the hole where the float valve goes. spin it 100 times, 50 with each end.3. Put your current float valve under a glass and inspect it carefully.4. If it's not exactly perfect, buy the cheapest carb rebuild kit from China ($14 on ebay) just for the float valve. (and gaskets)5. When you have it all assembled, blow some air by the float valve to make sure there's no rust flakes or anything.6. Install a new $2 inline fuel filter between the tank and carb. Get one with a paper filter, the screen type is too coarse.7. sing a happy song.I use the not-so-refined method of lung pressure to test the float valve. When you have the carb in your hand and the float assembled, take some clean fuel line and use it to blow against the float valve. You can lift the float with your other hand and test it with the rubber hose in your teeth. Imagine the fuel rising and shutting off the valve. You should feel it in the air you're blowing.You also just might have the smallest little flake of rust from the tank stuck in the float valve.Or I could be totally off base... But if you have debris in your fuel that's blocking the float valve, a new carb isn't going to solve the problem.When you do figure this out, do let us know. I love hearing the ends of these stories. (Oh, and the mistakes along the way!)Good luck!-Kevin

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