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Architectdave

Loader Build Question

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Architectdave

I have been working on the design of my loader again for the 3314H. The fact that I can build one for less than I can buy one is very tempting to me. So that said, I have sized the double acting cylinders for lift and lower as well as the bucket dump. I picked a pump based on flow and quantity calculations using the loader spec sheet I found on here to come up with something similar on paper that should behave the same as a stock loader and I know I can install a flow regulator if its too fast up and down....

My question is do I need a check valve in the system to hold a load and the bucket in the air when I shut the tractor off? I am using a standard loader control valve with detent, float open center etc, its made for this application......so does the valve keep the load frozen in the air or do I need a check valve in the system between the valve and the cylinders?

Any experenced hydraulic guys know this answer?

Thanks

Dave

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Architectdave

Honestly, not sure but if it stalls or it needs to be moved and it won't restart It seems to me you would want the loader to stay put and not come down uncontrolled....I was also thinking storage, I can fir more tractors together if the loader is up above another tractor when parked.:D

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BLT

Engine stalls and the like, you should be OK, but for any real length of time, a couple of angle irons the length of the extended rams make good stops that you never worry about. That's what exhibitors do with show machinery, cuz the liability insurance people said, my way or the highway.:D

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Talntedmrgreen

On my OEM loader, I like to leave the bucket off the concrete, if I'm putting her away wet, to avoid the rust stains that would result. I leave it 3-4" of the ground, and it settles in about 4 days time. I'm not a hydraulics guy, so I have no idea how the OEM loaders are setup. I know it would be fine for a day or so with a load, elevated, but I wouldn't want to leave the strain on it without a mechanical brace like what is mentioned. They do soak up a lot less space with the bucket in the air. What about a hook, hanging from the ceiling, if you're using the same spot consistently? Drive up, lift bucket, snag the hook and slightly lower to set a bit of tension on it then shut down and walk away.

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Architectdave

All good ideas, the angle iron and the hook, I am in planning stages now and want to be sure I have all the componants Im going to need for my system. It sounds like the loader valve will hold as i need it to unless i want to store it that way. I like the hook idea....need to get it built first. Parts are expensive I will share my plans and the build when it happens.

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npalen

Some transport locks for cylinders have been built using the angle iron concept mentioned above along with ears welded to the angle iron. The ears have holes in them for the cylinder rod pin to go thru. Usually requires a longer pin as well as some type of retainer to keep the locks in the unlocked position when not in use.

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HubbardRA

My EF1D loader came with a piece of "U" channel for working on the tractor. You can raise the bucket, then drop the channel over one of the extended rods from the cylinders, then slowly push the valve in the downward direction to trap the U channel between the end of the cylinder and it's mount on the chassis. I do this with the engine off so that bucket weight is the only force being applied to this safety prop. Hydraulic force could probably damage it. This keeps the bucket from coming down at all while the piece is in place. Makes it safe to work on the tractor with the bucket lifted out of the way. The safety prop attaches to the side of the dashboard and stays with the tractor.

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