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HerbP

7016H hydro use ...

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HerbP

So my son spent a fun-filled 45 minutes plowing this morning and while he's usually hard on equipment, he was pretty tender to the the 7016H... I got out there to finish up and when I plow, I generally go with plan-B ("Just keep on givin'er...")... Engine revs maxxed out and full forward on the hydro... That produces a nice flow of snow off to the side but does result in some not nice forces when the shovel encounters a less movable object or snow bank... So my question now is, what are the sensitivities in the sunstrand hydro and various components out to the tires? I find the 7016H to be more 'lurchy' than the 720.. The 720 seems like an elegant Cadillac whereas the 7016H feels more like a 1946 Willy's jeep.. If you pull the hydro lever from full-forward to center stopped while the tractor is moving at a good clip, the rear tires will lock up and the tractor will slide and when coupled with chains, come to a stop pretty darn quick. I can't help but think that probably isn't good for something... What am I likely to break with that sort of activity?

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MikeES

Yes, the Sundstrand hydros are that way. The Vickers are much smoother.

There is a spring box on your control lever to help smooth out lever movements, but may people lock up the spring box because they like the positive/instant reaction. Check you spring box maybe it has been modified or is locked up with gung and rust.

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HerbP

ok. Thanks.

I will take more care in hopes of preserving this fine little tractor... Besides, the 720 is in serious need of some love and I don't need two broken tractors...

I'll also take a look at the spring box but for now, I can't even picture it... The lever just goes to a shaft at the bottom and up further is a guide-plate...

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HubbardRA

Use the clutch if you need to stop quickly. Put the hydro in neutral, then take off like you did before. Those sudden direction changes under power will eventually crack the axle tube.

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JimDk

I have a A/C 917 that I beat like a rented mule and it takes it.

I bought it for short money with a blown Kohler twin, a busted steering wheel, rusted dash tower, hacked frame, I could go on, but you get the idea. I added a worn 16 Briggs and a few used parts and made it a dedicated plow tractor. It is a tribute to the Sundstrand that it has taken the abuse and comes back for more. I don't normally abuse my tractors, but when I'm out in the nasty weather I tend to get in a hurry. I don't have much weight added, but do use tire chains. I'm not recommending that kind of treatment, but just saying that MY Sundstrand will take some abrupt direction changes on ice and snow.

Disclaimer: Do not try this at home, and if you break something, don't blame me.:D:D

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HubbardRA

Heavy wheel weights can be a major culprit in breaking axle tubes. Without the weights, even with chains, there is a little spin that relieves the sudden application of load to the axle tube. With heavy wheel weights, even if the wheels were completely off the ground, the inertia of the wheels and weights alone will cause a large load to be applied to the axle tube when the direction is changed suddenly, especially at full throttle.

Wheel weights are hard on axle tubes.

Chassis weights are hard on axle bearings.

Take your choice.

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HubbardRA

Also, check the bolts that fasten the side plates for the tranny to the BGB. Those came loose on my AC716H and the lurching became much more pronounced. The lurching was very bad when the bolts were loose, but now it is much more usable.

I still use the clutch when changing directions in certain situations, though. The factory recommended just using the lever, but the clutch reduces loading when starting off. The lever needs to be pulled to a low speed setting before releasing the clutch. Do not release the clutch with the speed lever set to a high speed because of the loads that are put onto the hydro pump if that is done.

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HubbardRA

I have heard many people say not to use the clutch, but I use it anyway. I am a retired mechanical engineer, and I see no reason that the clutch cannot be used to stop the tractor. If I also use the clutch to take off, I will only do it with the hydro lever set at a very slow speed. I use the hydro lever if it is feasible to make a slower deceleration, than a corresponding slow acceleration. The way I drive is determined mostly by the terrain I am working in. I will not deliberately damage my tractor just to follow the directions in an owners manual.

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