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Bear

Lift cable - Pictures Added

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Bear

Need the length of the rear lift cable on a 7117. I'm going to try to make my own.I keep breaking them.Have a 38" tiller it's very heavy.This is my new cable. Made it with 1/4 inch cable.

Cable.JPG

Cable2.JPG

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maxwood

Hello, I made one for my 7119, 42 inches center to center. the factory one has an adjuster that allows an inch or so adjustment . But you already have one of those.

Ken in Mi

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GLPointon

I've made all my own Lift Cables too for my 7000 series. I bought the heavy cable like BLT showed, and the "crimp-on connectors". Also got the crimping tool for less than $20 at Menards. I lift very heavy loads with it for many yrs now...no trbl.

You can still order the small pulley, bushing and guide from Simplicity dealer or partstree.com. you'll need to go from the liftshaft to the rear lift (unless its there from a prior lift cable) I can get you the pulley, etc part #'s if needed....sm01

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HubbardRA

Since you have a dual ended rockershaft on your 7117 tractor, you can reverse the lift direction and do away with the pulley that the cable goes around.

I have made my own cables. I don't really know their lengths. I just adjust them till they work.

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AC710

I had this cable made at a store here that supplies cable for logging and oilfields. It cost about $15.00 including the clevis. They installed the ends with a 300 ton press. If you have a company that does this it is a great solution.

cable end.jpg

cable end 2.jpg

57e05df257c32_cableend.jpg.9b10549b2eaba160ef8fceadcf05c618.jpg

57e05df2e10b1_cableend2.jpg.766bc31a79be6b96e419ff389ea2264d.jpg

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Brettw

I heard all this discussion about broken cables and thought, "what are these guys talking about, those cables are tough as nails, they shouldn't have broken cable problems!"

Wise derriere. Pulled the blower and cab today, ready to install the deck and I look at the rear lift and it's hangin' kinda low. Sure enough, broken cable. And it wasn't even being used over the winter? No clue how it happened, but there I sit with a cable that is too tough to break, 'cept it be broke. And I need to mount the Revitalizer.

Whadayaknow.

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hamman01

I came across a Homelite NOS #1690045 rear lift cable and fixtures. It is the cable, small pulley pins, bolts,guid and other small parts. Can you tell me what model Homelite, Allis Chalmers or Simplcity this will fit. It does not fit my T-16 H. Just curious what it fits. May be interested in trading it for something of equal value for my Homelite. I am in need of a 4 3/4" X 7/8" pulley for the rear tiller I have. Thanks for any info. Roger.

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GLPointon

Rod I'm still wondering how you can use a cable without the pulley?Because the pulley is what lines the cable up with the "tunnel" it runs through to the rear lift assy...otherwise it will drag thru the tunnel diagonally XX((but maybe you mean the center lift cable?)

quote:Originally posted by HubbardRA

Since you have a dual ended rockershaft on your 7117 tractor, you can reverse the lift direction and do away with the pulley that the cable goes around.I have made my own cables. I don't really know their lengths. I just adjust them till they work.


id="quote">
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HubbardRA

Greg,

Sorry, but I missed your post. When there is no pulley the cable is attached to the top of the rockershaft and still runs between the two flat plates that hold the pulley, even though the pulley is removed. You then put a bolt through the holes that mounted the pulley. This holds the cable in the same basic orientation as it would be if it was going around the pulley.

I set up my tractors with the 7100 rockershafts because I wanted the rear hitch working opposite the front. In other words, I wanted the rear lift to move in the same direction as the lift handle. When I pull back on the handle rear lift goes down and front lift comes up. When I push forward on the handle front lift goes down and rear lift comes up. To me it is just more intuitive this way. You can also use rear weights on the lift to counterract the front weight with this setup.

Again Greg, I am sorry I didn't see your question back when you actually asked it. Us oldtimers sometimes to things like this.

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GLPointon

Thanks Rod...I like the idea of a counterweight setup like the FDTs. But I dont think I would let the cable drag over a bolt just to save a pulley. Too much of a pain to change it when the cable chaffs/wears, IMO...but maybe it doesn't wear??? sm01

quote:Originally posted by HubbardRA

Greg,Sorry, but I missed your post. When there is no pulley the cable is attached to the top of the rockershaft and still runs between the two flat plates that hold the pulley, even though the pulley is removed. You then put a bolt through the holes that mounted the pulley. This holds the cable in the same basic orientation as it would be if it was going around the pulley.I set up my tractors with the 7100 rockershafts because I wanted the rear hitch working opposite the front. In other words, I wanted the rear lift to move in the same direction as the lift handle. When I pull back on the handle rear lift goes down and front lift comes up. When I push forward on the handle front lift goes down and rear lift comes up. To me it is just more intuitive this way. You can also use rear weights on the lift to counterract the front weight with this setup.Again Greg, I am sorry I didn't see your question back when you actually asked it. Us oldtimers sometimes to things like this.


id="quote">
id="quote">

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HubbardRA

Greg,

The cable does not drag over the bolt. Originally the cable went over top of the pulley hooked to one end of the dual lift arm on the rockershaft. When you pulled back on the outside lift arm, that end of the lift arm (rear of shaft) went downward and pulled the cable around the pulley with the front end of the cable being pushed downward.

When you hook the cable to the other end of the lift arm it goes over a cam made onto the rockershaft. With that connection the cam replaces the pulley which is no longer needed. The only reason for re-installing the bolt through the pulley mount is to keep the cable from dropping low enough to swing outside the pulley mount plates. If the cable was pulled tight while being outside the plates there would be extreme friction on it and lots of abrasive wear. The bolt just keeps it between the plates to hold it in the area when it needs to work, when there is no load on the cable. If there is a load on it, the cable will stay between the plates on its own. You can leave the pulley in place if you want, but most people I have talked to will remove it because it simply is not needed with that setup.

You really need to look at the rockershaft on a 7100 series tractor to fully understand what I am saying. Remember that the change of cable mounting location on the rockershaft is designed to change the direction of motion of the rear lift relative to the manual lift. After the change you will push the lift forward to raise the rear lift, while in the standard configuration you pull back on the lift to raise the rear lift.

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Kenh

I'm an airplane guy so to me you always "pull" to go up. I have a #$%^&* of a time with the plow controls on the work pickup. "up" is the down button to me. Maybe I'm just weird:)

Ken

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HubbardRA

Kenh,

From the factory you pull on the handle and both the front attachment and the rear lift will go up. Once you change the cable the and pull on the lever the front attachment will still go up, but the rear lift will go down.

When you pull back on the stick of an airplane the elevators push the rear of the plane down to bring the nose up. Think of this lift in that way.

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Brettw

Well, thanks to the measurements and the pictures here, I built a new lift cable today. Worked great, about 10 bux in cable and parts vs. $63.00 for the factory cable at the dealer. Hooked up the revitalizer, thatched the lawn, mowed and vacuumed, all set for crab prevent. Thanks to all!

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