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RalphABlack

Engine Removal

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RalphABlack

Hi guys.....I have a 64 Landlord and would like to know the best way to remove the motor?? I need to get at the flywheel magnets and the coil. I'm not getting spark. Replaced the points, but no luck. I want to see if the coil and the magnets have rust on them and if so will clean them up and see if I get spark. I never removed a motor like this with a driveshaft. Any help would be great!!!.....Ralph

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rm

#1 remove the grille assy. fuel

#2 disconect wires mark with tape or marker

#3 go for the bolts and spacers on the drive shaft

#4 motor base bolts

left rear bolt you dont need a wrench on top. just the bottom

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huffy
quote:Originally posted by rm

#2 disconect wires mark with tape or marker


id="quote">
id="quote">I also suggest taking lots of pics as you take it apart. Putting the bolts, nuts, etc you take off into zip loc baggies and writing notes on the bags with a marker also helps.

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perry

they are a pretty simple engine to remove. and then you can get it running on the bench before installing back in tractor. lift the left side of engine first and work the oil drain out of the frame hole.

on a tractor with a manual lift arm I remove the left side panel and use a air ratchet to take the two driveshaft bolts/spacers out. when reinstalling the driveshat use a pair of long needle nose pliers to hold the spacers in place while starting bolts.

put a towel down so no hardware that drops falls under the engine.

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GLPointon

Try as much as you can first...To me, pulling the engine is a last resort...

Did you also replace the condenser with the points? I ask this all the time...at least 3 out of 4 "no spark" issues I've had turned out to be bad condensers.

I've never had an Ignition coil on the flywheel go bad. (I did break a wire on one removing a mouse nest)

If needed;

1]drain oil

2]disconnct drive shaft, I loosen setscrew at BGB so I can slide the driveshaft away from engine a little

3]remove 4 mounting bolts at engine base

4]unhook and label wires

5]unhook muffler

6]unhook fuel line, choke & throttle cables

Good luck...sm01

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chris87

i have pulled my engine out a few times it only takes about 20 mins they are really easy. i just put everything all the nuts and bolts in a pile. but i turn wrenches every day so i goten pretty good at knowing were everything goes. not on tractors but its all nuts and bolts.i have found its not time effective to do the bags for me but have differnt ways of remembering were everyting goes. grease vs rust on bolts etc... but if not going to be going back together in a few days its not a bad ideal or if you dont do this every day. my auto teacher told me a good mechanic can put something back together they didnt take a part with all the parts in a pile. so i have took that to heart. it does suck when you have to follow some one. i get to do it at least weekly at work. it takes a lot longer but i have not had one stump me yet some have taken 3 to 4 time longer then they should have tho.

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perry
quote:Originally posted by chris87

i just put everything all the nuts and bolts in a pile.


id="quote">
id="quote">same here , all my projects go in a coffee can sm01. bought a Toyota truck last year with bad engine. the prevouse owner had the engine tore down and all the parts / hardware were labeled in box,s. that sure made it nice , since the first step in the chiltons manual says to label everything. them toyota's are a vacuum line nightmare ....LOL

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chris87

i was a toyota mechanic for years and i did over 75 frame replacement under a recall and now you can show me pretty much any bolt new or old and i can tell you were it goes. but the weird thing is i cant remember guys names i have worked with for years. yes the older ones had a lot of vacuum lines.

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