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sbull78

Puzzler!!!for now.....

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sbull78

hey guys, i am workin on a little 12.5 lth...it has been repowered with a 16 vanguard...it cranks all day but wont start..i have found the fuel shut off solenoid was bad...bought new one, installed and the same thing..tried spraying carb cleaner and starting fluid in carb to "help her out" and flames!!!lol..i put out quickly(thank god for thick work gloves) and for now anyway am stumped....im goin to tear into it tomorrow but am welcoming any ideas...i crank and it just pops and pings and hiccups but wont start..compression is good...hmmmmm....what u guys think?....thanks!!!

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sbull78

checked that as well and it was good...thats what i thought after we replaced the fuel solenoid...also did coils as well...this thing was a basket case!...and still is...lol!:Dsm00

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sbull78

k, guy i bought it from said it had a bad coil but was good motor...i checked and he was rite so i replaced...then we found out fuel shut off was bad so i replaced that, good to go on that front..still wont start and if u shoot starting fluid down carb and start, fire shoots out!!!!my next investigation was compression check..it felt great by hand but lets put it on the guage and see...0 on both sides...hmmm...didnt sound like a popcorn maker full of small nuts and bolts so that led me to my next point...valve issues possible...pulled of valve cover on right side...top valve(ehaust i think) stuck...sprayed with lube and worked back n forth and walla!! it sprang back to life!!! other valve was good...checked compression 152psi!sweet! now to other side, exact same problem and fix..compression 152psi!!!yay!!!!double checked everything and started right up, idled smooth and ran great!!! deck was super quiet and hydro was nice!!!!great little machine...just glad it wasnt nothing major!!tractor had sad from previous owner for about 2 years and i changed all fluids when i got it so i guess it coulda been from sittin...thx all!!:D:D

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TommyK

Sounds like you got the same deal as I do on my Simple City 5212.5. Backfired like H.E.double hockey sticks.

The Solenoid's normal, un-energized state is fuel OFF. Turning the key to 'ON', you should hear it click as the valve opens. If you haven't disposed of your solenoid, DON'T, that may have not been the problem. I don't know what you paid for yours, but I just bought one for $98 and change at the local dealership. An internet search came up 'Obsolete, no replacement' on 3 different sites. A preview of one site indicated a $92 price, but when the page opened, the 'noid is unobtainium.

The solenoid opens when energized. A quick test is to use a 9.0volt battery to complete the circuit. If your solenoid has a tab for the harness wire to connect to, position the solenoid so one of the 9.0 battery terminals contacts the tab while the other terminal contacts the solenoid case. If the solenoid has a wire, use the wire instead of the tab. If the plunger gets sucked into the body, it's working properly. If it's working properly, keep it safe and secure. You may not be able to obtain another one.

'nuf said about fuel issues.

My no-start problem seems to be related to the spark plug to plug wire connection. OEM spark plug wires have a simple loop of metal that grips the tip of the plug. Age causes the loop to loosen up. This is a common problem with ALL B/S engines. A quick expedient is to squeeze the loop contained inside the boot to tighten the connector. This usually works for a couple uses, then has to be re-done. If finger pressure alone isn't enough to close the loop, use a pliers to squeeze it tighter before re-connecting. Go easy with the pliers that you don't cut the boot. This is a quick and cheap fix to try before sinking more money into other problems. Good Luck!

The other problem with B/S spark connectors is rust. This is never a good thing for electrical connections. Try to clean these up with steel wool. Clean up the plug tip as well.

I replaced my OEM no-so-good loops with automotive quality connectors. I wish B/S would do the same. These little loops are waa-a-a-a-y old-school, I cannot believe it would cost more than a dime per plug to upgrade to something more substantial.

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