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littlemarv

Trick my tractor 2013

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littlemarv

First off, go grab another beer. This is gonna be a long one...I got bogged down on my B-10 restore so I decided to work on another idea thats been ratttling around upstairs for awhile..Here is my 416 when I picked it up last summer. Pretty plain, none of the few available options on it. I like the way these tractors look- stout little guys for sure.

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I got it running (drained carb, fresh battery and fresh fuel was all it took) used it on a moldboard plow, which it does awesome, and used the spring trip in the winter. Found the 16 H.P. hydro to be perfect for any job- lots of snort and infinitely variable ground speed. Quickly becoming attached to this one...So, I added factory headlights which I got from a member in N.Y. (thanks John) (can't remember his username)

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Here is the topic on thathttp://www.simpletractors.com/club2/topic.asp?TOPIC_ID=123396&SearchTerms=snowmageddonI noticed when plowing snow that steering, lift handle, hydro lever, navigation, and holding onto my co-pilot was taking up more extremeties than I posess.

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So, I added the factory electric lift (thanks again John)

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Thats better, but when using a rear attachment, having that lift switch on the dash can be rather inconvienient. Also, its hard to see behind you at night, I wonder if theres something I could do to improve things....Uh Oh- the gears are turning... this sounds expensive...I stopped at my local steel shop and had a couple pieces of 16 ga. bent to make the housings, also got 4 panels to make OEM looking work lights.

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Cut up some cardboard to get a rough idea of size and shape

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Measured and marked holes for lights

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Must have done a good job, they came out near perfect!

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Heres what the front will look like- I set back the inside 1/2" and the outside 1 1/4" to turn the bulbs outward instead of frying the backs of my legs

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More cutting and trying, and adjusting

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Got the holes drilled for the lights, using a 4 1/8" hole saw

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Heres some precision markings for cutting out the panels

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Cut out the tops of the boxes with a cutoff wheel. The left one will be a toolbox and the right one will be a recessed switch panel.

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Got some more 16 ga. and welded up the toolbox....Oh crap, I forgot the most important measurement of the entire project!!!!!!

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Nevermind, it fits. Phew!Heres the countersunk swich panel and toolbox

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Threw some swiches in the panel to see how it looks."Copy that Houston, we are prepared for nighttime gardening!"

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Test fitting the box and panel- they need to be removable so I can mount the lights- it would have been a lot easier to mount 4" round lights in rubber grommets but I want it to match the headlights....

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More precision tuning to get the boxes to follow the sleek body lines of the fenders

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Picked this up at Napa for $17. Has a single stud for power in and six fuse spots.

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But of course it wasn't good enough so I added a ground stud and pressed the nuts in for the mounting screws.

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Got the light panels cut

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Welded everything together

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Blasted and ready for paint

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Heres where I left my camera somewhere for a week and couldn't take pictures, take my word when I say I primed the inside, painted the inside, welded them on, primed the outside, painted the outside, masked the outside, and painted the light panels black.

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Went to Fleet and stocked up on stainless hardware

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Beginning assembly

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A little help is always welcome"DON'T SCRATCH THE PAINT!"

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Had a tough time getting the lids and hinges to cooperate. Ended up shimming the lids up with three flats so they'd work right.

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Hers the fuse panel mounted under the switch panel

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Lots of wiring, tried to keep it neat, easier said than done.

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Here is the switch panel, with two spots reserved for future use...The left switch is a momentary polarity reversing toggle switch for the electric lift. This one will be used when you are facing back to watch a rear mounted implement. The other three are on/offs for front work lights, rear work lights, and headlights.

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Went to a Hancock Fabrics, got some vinyl and 2" foam to make some armrests. As you can see, I don't make armrests for a living. Had to drill holes to clear the nuts on the lid bolts.

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Better hotwire it and test it before I carry it upstairs and bolt it on.

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It worked out rather well- I wired the tractor last week when it was nice out, then worked in the basement for a week, then used a five pin taillight harness connecter to join the seat pan to the tractor.

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Here is the mess in the battery box. This whole project has to be key power because my little man has little fingers that love to play with little switches and its only a matter of time before someone gets hurt. So, I got ignition power from the stud under the keyswich to run my relay, which powers up everything. The whole circuit is protected by a 30 amp fuse right at the battery.

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Ran two harnesses down by the steering column. I asked for five feet of five different color 14 ga wire at Napa, they only had two colors. So, I asked for some 7 wire trailer cable and cut the sheath off. Got all the wire I needed, probably cheaper, and I slid the sheath on the edge of the metal to protect from chafing.

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Clamped the harness here to keep it out of the driveshaft, belt, etc.

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The harness lays in here pretty nice.

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I removed the lift lever, but since i still have the stub waving back and forth as the lift goes up and down, I figured I might as well make a handy "Implement Depth Indicator". Also made brackets for mounting a second electric lift toggle switch on the hydro lever for "On the Go Fingertip Implement Control" (patents pending so don't even think about it)

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Installed the indicator..."Up"

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"Down"

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Modifying the hydro knob so I can mount a toggle switch to it.

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I tried to mount the angle iron to the hydro lever but I couldn't center punch it much less drill it.... don't know what its made of or if its hardened or what.Mounting and running the wires. The two switches are wired in paralell, which should be O.K. as long as nobody pushes "up " on one switch and "down" on the other at the same time. I think that would be a dead short.

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Well, thats about it. So here is the end result.......

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This thing really lights up the night now! Especially on snow!

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Got a well lit view to the rear now

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Front view

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So, this is why my B-10 hasn't seen much action lately. My adding worklights quickly spiralled out of control. I think it looks pretty good, the boxes fit the box shape of the tractor quite well.Next I have to adapt my round top tiller to this tractor. That should be another entertaining topic.TRICK MY TRACTOR PROJECT CHECKLISTOver budget? CHECKBehind schedule? CHECKWay more complex than needed? CHECKMission accomplished.Thanks for looking!

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fishnwiz

R U KIDDING!!!! WOW!

I will be dropping off my AC410 in the a.m. You will have it finished when? :D

Nice job and awesome frabrication skills...very impressive!

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GLPointon

Very nice fab work...well planned and built. AND it looks very cool.

Kinda has a powermax look & feel to it now. I love projects like that.

The switch on the hydro shoulda been factory, very useful dOd

ps...but you should Pad that seat too sm01

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littlemarv

Thanks guys....

Actually, the powermax look is exactly what I was going for. I measured and imagined up a whole new seat pan to make it look like one, but by the time you make one, then blend it to the existing frame and running boards, it doesn't look that different from whats already on there.

By the time I got this all together, I was fresh out of funds for a new seat. Maybe this summer.

Man, I can't wait to plow and till this year. Mostly after dark!

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rich_kildow

Leinie's, snow, hancock fabrics, and a kid in a Packer's jersey...I do believe I smell a fellow Wisconsinite. I was born and raised in Chippewa, so I can appreciate your good taste in beverages!

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