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tiller run away


chris87

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got my tiller hooked up to my landlord this morning and went to try it quick to see how well it works. my garden is on a hill so i started by tilling up hill i figured that would be best since i don't have hi/lo and it would give me the slowest speeds so i dropped it down and let it till down aways and locked it in i have manual lift so i couldn't force it down. and it worked good but was spinning a lot so i figured ill try it down hill. i have a shed about 20 feet from the bottom of the garden. so i did the same thing dropped it down and lock it in. went good a lot faster then i wanted but still went good. till i got to the end and hit the untilled part it lifted the back tires off the ground and away i went. remember the tiller was locked down. i panicked not sure how but i got it stopped a few feet from the shed. so lesson learned don't lock the tiller down or if i do keep one hand on PTO lever to turn off if needed.

tilleroops.jpg

yes its snowing and now i have some yard to fix.

tilleroops.jpg.5aea6b058d5eef81d5821237da49eab2.jpg

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Lucked out on that lesson.^

I never till with the lift locked down mainly because I have rocks that grow up fromcensored1.gifover the winter in most of what I till.

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I been saying for years, tillers should never be allowed to lock down.

Hope it was only property damage and no one got hurt.

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quote:Originally posted by rokon2813

I been saying for years, tillers should never be allowed to lock down.


id="quote">
id="quote">Another good reason to cut a chunk out of the lift rod and replace with chain welded in its place. Did that to 3112H. At least now I am not straighting out lift rod every other day.^
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just grass was damaged. the rod on mine is 1 in round stock and its welded right to the tiller can i see a picture of the chain on yours?

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the lift quadrant should have a bunch of holes in it. Just put a bolt in the last hole, so the handle cant come back far enough to lock. Just gotta take the bolt back out for front attachments.

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quote:Originally posted by rokon2813

the lift quadrant should have a bunch of holes in it. Just put a bolt in the last hole, so the handle cant come back far enough to lock. Just gotta take the bolt back out for front attachments.


id="quote">
id="quote">Thats correct, use a bolt or pin as a stopper. with a hydro lift the tiller is used in the float position. things happen fast but allways remember to just shut the engine off .
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Never use tiller on stock geared machine. Add hi/lo or 10in. driven pulley to slow travel speed to tillage compatible speed. And as stated, put bolt or pin in last hole so tiller can't lock down....Dave

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tires are loaded and have chains on. the po has cut most of the holes so there a lot of places that it can lock into. i planned on takeing it off this summer and welding them shut and just have the one in the fwd position open. im looking at getting a 8 or 10 in pulley how much will a 8in slow it down or should i just get a 10in would like a hi/lo but dont have the money to spend on the tractor right now C

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Also you don't have to till at WOT. I do mine at less then half throttle . It's an establish garden and gets pulverised well at that speed.

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Yup, had a similar thing happen. I had a pin, but it fell out and locked down as i came to the end of a row. I shot across my brothers yard staright at his fence. Had mind enough to kill the engine and stopped right at the fence. Got off and asked my brother if he had an extra pair of shorts. lol:D

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Always get a badly hurting thumb when I'm tilling from holding the lift button down. Always been gonna invent a lock down for it that would just flip over the top of the handle, still in the 'thought' stage.

Not sure what the #'s are on a 10 inch pulley ground speed but it sure takes the 725 a long time to cross my yard, but I love it when tilling.

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Marty, just drill a hole and stick a pin in it. A nail makes a good pin. Depress the button and insert the pin. The spring tension will hold the pin in. That will keep it from locking. Did that on two of mine. Did one at the latch, and the other at the top of the handle. Poor man's float for a manual lift.

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quote:Originally posted by MPH

Always been gonna invent a lock down for it that would just flip over the top of the handle, still in the 'thought' stage.


id="quote">
id="quote">The early cub cadets came facory with a flip over lock. might get some ideas form that setup
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ill be doing the pin ideal it will be a lot easier then removing and welding right now. i tried to brake some new ground at my in laws were im going to put in a bigger garden. my thumb and arm was sore after a hour of tilling. and only got about 8 by 60 done. its going to be a 60 x 50 so im going to borrow a plow from a guy i work with hope it makes things go faster.

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Chris, some members here recommend / suggest that if one is breaking new ground on a garden to use the plow first, then a tiller to smooth out the dirt.

I am sure other members with more experience will jump in.

Rick.......

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landlord2110

I always use garden plow before digging new ground, then use the tiller. I use lawn raking & fall leaves for the garden & in the spring I use garden plow then the tiller to mix leaves in the soil.

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quote:Originally posted by MPH

Always get a badly hurting thumb when I'm tilling from holding the lift button down. Always been gonna invent a lock down for it that would just flip over the top of the handle, still in the 'thought' stage.


id="quote">
id="quote">Marty; Simplicity already did this. No need to reinvent the wheel. Pics are a manual lift lever for a 3314H with factory float lockout....Dave

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float2.jpg.16ce451ca534cc914a6f3c17d582d5b4.jpg

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