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Allis Chalmers 312H with Tiller 1690039


BigDeal01

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Hello Everyone,

I am new to this site, so let me introduce myself first... I am Andy, I live in Pine Grove, PA and I own an Allis Chalmers 312H (1971?) with a 48" deck, snowblower, dozer blade, and recently I purchased a 36" tiller for it. I have had this tractor for 1 year now and I use it to mow 2.5 acres of land and plow snow. I bought the tiller attachment because we (fiance' and I) have a large garden to maintain plus I have a good section of my yard torn up due to renovations and that now needs to be tilled.

My question is when hooking up this tiller to my tractor I researched and found the tiller takes the 5/8"x96" belt but it seems to be a few inches too short. I am going to mess with it again tonight and see if I have something wrong but does anyone have any knowledge of using that till on the A/C 300 series tractors?

I know the 300's and 400's are supposedly the "odd" ball tractors so I am not sure if there is a part I need to change on this or what. The setup has the 5" pulley on the tractor, the support pulleys, then the large (maybe 9") diameter pulley on the tiller with a hand clutch lever using a spring to tighten a small pulley against the belt.

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Welcome! I'm not familiar with the differences in the 3/400 series rear PTO arrangements, if any. I take it your tiller has this setup?

1650137.jpg

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Yes that looks real close if not exact to my set up. I don't have a rear PTO clutch on my tractor, just a direct 5" pulley off the gearbox. I figured no sense putting a clutch set up on the tractor when I can use the hand clutch on the tiller.

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You are correct, there is no need for the second clutch, but the idler setup on the rear of the tractor wouldn't be a clutch, it maintains belt tension regardless of tiller position on the lift. If running a straight belt, the belt tightens as the tiller is lowered, and falls off the cone clutch when raised.

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Well I do know the belt you have will work on the ac 700/900 and simplicity 3400/7100 series. Maybe Mack will chime in to help out on the belt length I some some reason was thinking that they do run a little longer belt .

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Josh,

That is a clutch on the tiller. The square bent handle activates it. It is just like the one on my B-112. The 312 does not have a cone clutch. I do not know the belt length for that tractor.

Andy,

Welcome to the group. Do you have your belt installed on top of the idler as in the picture above. I have seen them installed incorrectly.

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I'm with you...I have the same tiller for FDT's, but did not realize the 300's had no cone clutch. I was thinking he was missing the rear idler pulley setup, but that's another topic I was discussing elsewhere. I apologize for the confusion.

I thought the 3/400's used rear ends from the Simplicity stable of that period? If so, belt length should be the same, and his 96"er should work, right?

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I just got home and checked out my set up. I do have the belt installed correctly around the tiller area according to the picture and my manual.

Here is what I found which may be the reason this belt isn't working. I measured the hitch rod that would go into the tractor sleeve and that is 1" round. My tractor sleeve opening is 1 1/8" round. So I would guess that the correct one for my tractor should be the 1 1/8" round, right? If so is the length of the hitch rod different from a 1" to a 1 1/8"? I ask because when I push the tiller rod all the way down into the tractor sleeve completely (past the pin hole) this brings the tiller closer to the tractor which in turn decreases the length of belt I would need. Now my thought is this, if I cut about 1 to 2 inches off that hitch rod and drill a new pin hole, that might put the tiller close enough to get the 96" belt on it.

Or I could just drill a new pin hole where it's at now, and try to find a longer belt (like a 100") and see if that will work.

Thanks everyone for all of your help!

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Andy,

You need one of the members who run 300 series tractors to chime in here.

This is strictly a guess, but the 1" sleeve/lift assembly from a Simplicity should fit your tractor and make your tiller work better. It may not be very stable in the 1 1/8" lift. That should put you in the ball park with the belt.

Again this is a guess on my part. There should be some one parting out a tractor and have a lift to sell.

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your observations are absolutely correct... the simplicity tiller has a 1" bar while your sleeve hitch has a 1 1/8" opening, the OEM AC was the 1" bar sleeved to 1 1/8". shim/sleeve the bar on the tiller or live with it...... also, as you noticed... you will likely want to drill another hole in the bar hole (or the hitch sleeve, probably easier) to accommodate the difference in where the pin hole was placed to keep AC and Simplicity owners from cross-breeding...

as far as the simplicity hitch.. .im not sure the lift rod would work as they bolt to the lift directly...

all my tillers are for 3/4's... I do know Mack has had first hand experience with exactly your issue

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quote:Originally posted by sammiefish

your observations are absolutely correct... the simplicity tiller has a 1" bar while your sleeve hitch has a 1 1/8" opening, the OEM AC was the 1" bar sleeved to 1 1/8". shim/sleeve the bar on the tiller or live with it...... also, as you noticed... you will likely want to drill another hole in the bar hole (or the hitch sleeve, probably easier) to accommodate the difference in where the pin hole was placed to keep AC and Simplicity owners from cross-breeding...all my tillers are for 3/4's... I do know Mack has had first hand experience with exactly your issue


id="quote">
id="quote">You can push the bar all the way into the sleeve and drill a new hole. This will let you use the belt you have. I used one that way for years.
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Thank you for all the help!

I tried pushing it all the way into my sleeve and there is a stop ring (inside the tractor sleeve) preventing it from going completely down so I measured the rod next to the sleeve while the belt was attached with the clutch disengaged and it looks like if I cut off about 1" from the rod and drill a new hole then that will allow it to mount into the sleeve and be able to use that belt.

I'm getting anxious to try this out and see how good it works!

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I grew up with an AC312 with that same tiller. It worked great, No extra hardware needed.

The only odd thing is when the tiller would hit a rock & jump up, the engagement handle (handle on tiller) would hit & break the tail light lens. :Ongr2

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Well it's a good thing my lens is broke already! LOL I was going to put the new lens on but I think I will just wait now until after the tilling is done! Thanks for the heads up!

I cut about 1" off the rod and it mounts good and the belt fits good now. All I have to do is drill a hole in the rod for the pin. Almost done with it!

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Well I finished installing the tiller. I cut the 1" off the round bar on the tiller and drilled a new pin hole and it fits the correct belt size now.

Let me just say, this tiller/tractor combo is AMAZING! It barely shakes the tractor and I didn't even use wheel weights or chains. It's a beast! I love the set up. I'm already planning for new tines next year.

Thanks everyone for all the help!

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  • 11 months later...

I just purchased a 312 with a blown engine with no deck has tiller and it needs rebuilt I have no idea what Missing and is there a locker on those cause in neutral both wheel turn forward so what's what the difference between the 3 and 400

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Maybe, locker = locking differential. Which of course it doesn't have. There are shuttle difference between the 300 and 400. Most obvious to me is the double beam front axle on the 400.

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